Patio view

Vinous Table: Dano’s Heuriger on Seneca

Vinous Table

Kelli White, May 2016

Anyone fortunate enough to have traveled through the wine regions of Austria is familiar with the concept of a Heuriger. They are - generally speaking - seasonal restaurants, often appended to a winery, and many are only open for the few weeks or months surrounding harvest. The fare tends to lean towards a rustic, hearty direction- typically centered around sausages or schnitzel- intended to sate the massive hunger garnered by a long day of working in either cellar or vineyard. Local wines are the only libation on offer, and a vintage will sometimes be served after only a few weeks of age (heurig effectively translates to "this year's").

Exterior

Vinous Table: Sturehof, Stockholm, Sweden

Vinous Table

Kelli White, Apr 2016

This past December, following a particularly busy day promoting my book in Sweden, I joined a group of friends for a late dinner at Sturehof – a Stockholm fixture that was originally established in 1897. Though assuredly among the oldest restaurants I have ever stepped foot inside, there were no cobwebs on this place. On the contrary, Sturehof was the gastronomic embodiment of vigor.

Bygone

Book Excerpt: A Brief History of Napa Valley, Part 1

featured, United States: California

Kelli White, Apr 2016

Driving through Napa Valley today, it’s hard to imagine that anything other than grapes was ever grown here. Even to those august few who remember a time when plum and walnut trees outnumbered vines, it seems the distant and hazy recollection of a dream. This valley craves the grape, and since its introduction in 1838 that natural affinity has been obvious to anyone who paid attention.

Frediani collage 2

Old Vines, Deep Roots: Calistoga's Frediani Family

featured, United States: California

Kelli White, Mar 2016

“There aren’t too many old farming families like us around anymore,” Jim Frediani told me as we bounced and bumped along the vine rows in his small vineyard truck. We had just left the house of his uncle Alfred, whose cache of old vines, duct tape hat and straight shooting attitude are the stuff of legend.

Storm 10 currentphoto

Making Wine Across the Divide: A Chat with Ernst and Hannes Storm

Loam Baby, United States: California

R.H. Drexel, Mar 2016

The Storm brothers, Hannes, 39, and Ernst, 36, grew up in the Western Cape of South Africa. When they were teens, the family moved to Hermanus, which is in the famed Walker Bay appellation. The brothers had a lot of fun growing up together, but they also had a fair amount of sibling rivalry. “I think even back then we both knew we wanted to do something for a living that would take us outdoors," Ernst Storm recalled.

Coversangiovese destined to be made into the rare %e2%80%9cocchio di pernice%e2%80%9d at avignonesi

Tuscany’s Mysterious Self-Making Vin Santo

featured, Italy: Tuscany, Fellowship

Bryce Wiatrak, Mar 2016

Up until recently Vin Santo was a rather modest beverage, kept by its producers to share among their friends, rarely ever seeking a place on commercial shelves. Today, Tuscany opens its doors to the rest of the world to taste its treasured sweet wine.

Steen 4

Of Springsteen and Steen: A Chat with Leo Steen Hansen

Loam Baby, United States: California

R.H. Drexel, Mar 2016

On a recent trip through Northern California, a couple of winemakers excitedly told me about Leo Steen Hansen, who they felt was making some of the best Chenin Blancs in the United States. So I looked up Hansen because I’m always on the lookout for a good Chenin Blanc, a lovely white variety that doesn’t get the credit it deserves stateside.

Three faces

Diversity is the Fabric: A Chat with Winemaker Enrico Maria Bertoz

Loam Baby, United States: California

R.H. Drexel, Mar 2016

Winemaker Enrico Bertoz made his way to the United States from his homeland of Friuli in 1999. “I got here with a guitar on my back. I took a shuttle bus from the Los Angeles airport and got off the bus near Pico Blvd. Through some family contacts, I was put in touch with Piero Selvaggio, who owns Valentino Restaurant in Santa Monica. I was told this later: when Piero saw me get off the bus – my hair was this wild orange color – he told his restaurant manager, who was with him, ‘I’m leaving.’ And he left!”

Thestation exterior

Filling up at The Station: A Chat with Jenna Congdon

Loam Baby

R.H. Drexel, Feb 2016

A great number of pundits in the wine industry seem fixated on The Millennials; What are they drinking? How can the wine industry court them? How much do they spend on wine versus beer? I’m no social anthropologist, but the Millennials I know do not seem that different from my older friends, or much younger friends, for that matter. That’s the thing about generational labels; they often rob individuals of the nuances that makes humanity interesting and wildly diverse. The Millennials I know are as varied and complicated as everybody else I come across.

Heitz

Vinous Table: Formento’s, Chicago

Vinous Table

Kelli White, Feb 2016

On a recent trip to Chicago to promote my book I hosted old Napa wine dinner at Formento’s in the Fulton Market District. Sommelier Steve Morgan and I selected a handful of beautiful wines that represented several decades of Napa Valley winemaking.