Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020
France: Burgundy, featured
, Oct 2021
There is a quiet revolution underway in beautiful, tranquil Chablis as more young winemakers enter the region and growers aspire to greater heights. The 2019 and 2020 vintages have much to offer, not least for those priced out of the Côte d'Or and wondering where to get their white Burgundy fix.
Cellar Favorite: 1964, 1971 and 1974 Domaine Couly-Dutheil Chinon
France: Loire, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2021
During my June stay in Burgundy, I visited a friend in Beaune for supper. Rather than pouring Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, he served exceptional mature Loire wines from his personal cellar that all made a big impression.
2019 Burgundy – Further Additions
France: Burgundy, featured
, Oct 2021
After a taxing day’s tasting and heated discussion about the 2017s at Burgfest, I jumped in my car and visited two or three producers that I was unable to see last year after my autumn trip was curtailed by the lockdown.
Vinous Table: The River Café, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Oct 2021
How long must a restaurant exist before it becomes an institution? The River Café is the paradigmatic restaurant institution. People know it even if they have never eaten there nor ever will.
Cellar Favorite: Domaines Delon: Recent Cellar Releases
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2021
There is a growing trend for châteaux to keep a proportion of their stock for late releases, the two most notable being Palmer and Léoville Las-Cases. I recently tasted vintages of 2011 from Jean-Hubert Delon’s stable.
Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2021
The 2001 Sauternes were hailed on release. But at 20 years of age, do they match the hype? This report answers that question and like Stanley Kubrick's 2001: A Space Odyssey, poses more.
Vinous Table: Chizuru Tei, Edinburgh, Scotland
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Sep 2021
Chizuru Tei has one raison d’être: to serve the best Japanese food possible. I cannot return soon enough.
Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2021
Debate about whether Bordeaux 2000 is superior to 2001, or vice versa, has simmered since the wines were in barrel. So, this past June I visited many major châteaux to compare the two vintages side-by-side. What I found was that 12 months apart, the two vintages represent the end of one era and the beginning of another.
Vinous Table: Divino Enoteca, Edinburgh, Scotland
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Sep 2021
While on vacation in Edinburgh I wanted to check out a restaurant focused on wine, so I booked a table at Divino Enoteca.
Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011
France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Sep 2021
One of the most revered château in Bordeaux, this article on La Mission Haut-Brion presents both a historical and contemporary insight courtesy of a Q&A with winemaker Jean-Philippe Delmas, plus tasting notes back to the 1920s.