Cellar Favorite: 1994 Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Nov 2019
It is a pity that Aligoté must reside in the shadow of Chardonnay. Too often it is dismissed, not only by consumers, but winemakers themselves since many “forget” to show me their Bourgogne Aligoté during cellar visits. Thankfully in recent years there has been a reappraisal of Aligoté spearheaded by Marsannay-based Sylvain Pataille and the grape is finally receiving due respect.
South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself
South Africa, featured
, Nov 2019
As someone privileged with more than his fair share of rare and expensive Grand Cru Burgundy and First Growths, I can unhesitatingly state that the best of South Africa punches at the same weight. This report burgeons with wines born in climactic knife-edge, dry-farmed vineyards, often from ancient vines, and with minimal intervention by talented and frequently young winemakers in the opening chapters of long careers. Those winemakers are creating a scene that is incredibly exciting and dynamic.
Vinous Table: Casa Cámara, San Juan de Pasajes, Spain
Spain, Vinous Table
, Nov 2019
This is an institution that goes about its business in discreet fashion, doing what it has done for decades: serving delicious seafood and providing a memorable evening out.
Cellar Favorite: 1994 Kanonkop Wine Estate Paul Sauer
South Africa, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2019
Kanonkop’s “Paul Sauer” constantly shows that world-class Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blends are well within grasp and, moreover, proves how supremely well they age.
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Beyond Wine: Album Review of All Mirrors – Angel Olsen
Beyond Wine
, Oct 2019
All Mirrors is Angel Olsen’s best album in what has, until now, been a slow-burn career, evolving from her lo-fi roots to a cavernous, lush sound.
Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle
France: Burgundy, featured
, Oct 2019
The 2016 Burgundy vintage is infamous for the devastating late spring frosts and inclement weather. Yet the surviving fruit enjoyed a blissful second half of the growing season. The reds are small in quantity but supposedly big in quality. So how do they shape up when assessed blind?
Cellar Favorite: 1975 Egon Müller Riesling Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese
germany: Mosel, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Oct 2019
Though the bottle is still on the other side of the room on its way to the dining table, I instantly register that it is a) exceedingly rare and extraordinarily expensive and b) already open for serving. The thought that goes through my head is: “Is that really what I think it is?”
Vinous Table: Xaya, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France
France, Vinous Table
, Oct 2019
If you are taking a vacation in Biarritz or Saint-Jean-de-Luz, make a reservation at Xaya. One mouthful is all it takes to understand why their tables are in such demand.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Oct 2019
I had never tasted a bottle from the era of Charles’s grandfather, Robert Arnoux, whose passing in 1995 led to his son-in-law taking over. But this bottle revealed a connection between Robert Arnoux and Charles Lachaux’s approach to winemaking.
A Century - Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Oct 2019
In December last year, Château Talbot celebrated a century of ownership by the Cordier family with a vertical tasting at the property. This article assesses the vintages and where they place Talbot in the Saint-Julien hierarchy as a new chapter opens.