No Oxymoron: Affordable Burgundy
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jun 2019
Affordable Burgundy is a phrase that seems to become more oxymoronic by the day as the price of blue-chip wines spirals towards irrationality. This article hopefully serves as a reminder that Burgundy that does not damage your wallet still exists.
Vinous Table: Noizé, London, United Kingdom
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Jun 2019
As banal as it sounds, what I love about Noizé is its simplicity. You come here to eat well. If you are looking for a vibrant atmosphere, good French food and a central location, I cannot recommend Noizé enough.
Two Cape Crusaders: Alheit & Mullineux
featured, South Africa, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jun 2019
Two Chrises (Alheit and Mullineux). Two winemakers. Two Chenin Blancs. Two wines that have helped transform the image of South African wines. Two vertical tastings here in one Vinous article.
Cellar Favorite: 1970 Gallais Bellevue
France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
, Jun 2019
I procured two or three bottles of the 1970 Gallais Bellevue from a Saint-Émilion retailer not because I had a clue who or what Gallais Bellevue was, but because of the name of the proprietor, Paul Delon.
An Ineluctable Pair: 2017 Vintage Ports
featured, Portugal
, Jun 2019
General Declarations of Vintage Port tend to be spread three or four per decade and never successively. But hot on the heels of the fêted 2016 arrive their 2017 counterparts. What kind of growing season prompted this unprecedented move and do these latest releases offer something different?
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Beyond Wine: Album Review of Titanic Rising – Weyes Blood
Beyond Wine
, May 2019
This is an album of grandeur, whose grooves can barely contain the lush, dramatic and cinematic sound that sweeps you off your feet.
Finding Filhot: Filhot 1935-2015
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, May 2019
Filhot is among the largest and grandest estates in Sauternes, yet over many years of experience, its wines often pose as many questions as answers. Would visiting the estate, plus a vertical tasting stretching back decades, alter my opinion?
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Cellar Favorite: 1992-2011 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru
France: Burgundy, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
, May 2019
I feel that people sometimes look down on Jadot’s Clos Saint-Jacques because unlike the other four, it is part of a large company’s portfolio rather than a family domaine. However, in blind tastings I find it stands shoulder to shoulder with the competition.
Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999
France: Burgundy, featured
, May 2019
The second part of my Mature Burgundy article brushes the dust off a unique treasure trove of bottles stretching back to the 19th century. These notes, accumulated over many months, include wines that might never be tasted again. Are they as magical as their prices would suggest? What makes them magical if they are?
Cellar Favorite: 1934 Cheval Blanc
France: Bordeaux, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
, May 2019
Naming my favorite Bordeaux château is always a difficult task, but if forced to choose my top five, I would unquestionably include the property that is Pomerol in all but classification: Cheval Blanc. The vintage that alerted me to the pedigree of Cheval Blanc’s old vintages is not the legendary 1947 nor the fabled 1921, but the 1934.