Vinous Table: Portland, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Feb 2019
I came away from this dinner impressed by the restaurant, since the service and food had been exquisite, and with a higher appreciation of Chablis than ever before. If this evening set out to demonstrate the apotheosis of Chablis, then it is “job done.” These wines may actually have surpassed my high expectations.
To Paint A Picture: Kumeu River Chardonnay 2006-2017
New Zealand, featured
, Feb 2019
Kumeu River is New Zealand's greatest Chardonnay producer, one that is genuinely world class. Following the most comprehensive tasting ever conducted, this article traces the story of the Brajkovich family, details their vineyards and philosophies, to find out how they make such bloody good Chardonnay.
Cellar Favorites: 1953 & 1975 l’Angélus
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2019
Sometimes these forgotten and frequently traduced periods are not as fallow as you might presume, especially in this Manichean age where we prefer to see things in black and white.
The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle
France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2019
Everyone is at the mercy of Mother Nature, including the most famous domaine in Burgundy. Late spring frost denied Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s three releases of their 2016 vintage, but how do the surviving crus fare now that they are in bottle? Do they finish on a major or minor chord?
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2019
From whatever perspective you examine this Clos de la Roche, at least on the basis of this solitary encounter, I can only conclude that it is a perfect wine.
Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2019
Today, Pichon-Baron is one of Bordeaux’s most popular wines, but it took many years, hard work and investment to get there. This articles traces its ascent from under-performer to Left Bank superstar via one of the most comprehensive verticals ever conducted at the château, an objective examination of the last four decades and beyond, plus a look at its sister property, Château Pibran.
Beyond Wine Album Review of Assume Form - James Blake
Beyond Wine
, Jan 2019
If you want to know how music sounds right now, stream Assume Form and relish one of the most innovative musicians forging his own interesting and now happier path.
The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2019
The 2016 Bordeaux vintage was praised to high heavens during en primeur, but the real test of quality is once the wines are finished and bottled. Is it truly one of the great modern-day vintages?
Vinous Table: Core by Clare Smyth, London, United Kingdom
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Jan 2019
Core is the most impressive debut since I first dined at The Ledbury, another Notting Hill destination restaurant.
Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jan 2019
True, Brane-Cantenac has had its ups and downs over the years, but it is now creating some of its best ever wines. In one of the most comprehensive verticals ever written, I examine the estate from its formation to the present day and what influences the character of this singular Margaux.