<a target="_blank" href="http://www.harwoodarms.com/">The Harwood Arms</a>

Walham Grove

London SW6 1QP, United KingdomTel.: +44 20 7386 1847

&nbsp;

BY IAN D’AGATA | SEPTEMBER 23,
2016&nbsp;

The food:

Barbecued beetroot with goat’s
cheese, pistachio and bitter leaves

Cornish monkfish tail with a white
bean broth, Isle of Wight tomatoes and basil

Cornish sea bass with Jersey Royals,
pickled mussole, smoked eel, and sorrel

Poached pear with vanilla cream,
walnut, stem ginger

Coffee&amp;doughnuts

The wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2010 Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs Traditional Method
 Kent
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2010 Hush Heath Estate Balfiour Traditional Method
 Brut Rosé Kent
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2000 Vincent Girardin Montrachet Grand Cru
 </td>
 <td>
 98+
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

<img alt=""><img alt="" src="http://"><img alt="" src="http://">&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1474587125067-view+outside+copy.jpg">

The Harwood Arms is one of my three
or four favorite places to eat out in London; actually, its relaxed,
comfortable setting, superior food and outstanding wine list makes it one of my
favorite restaurants in the world. I simply never tire of sitting down at one
of the Harwood’s comfortable tables, surrounded by friendly staff and happy
patrons alike. The extremely reasonable prices, given the quality of the
food, are just one more reason to smile all day long (be aware that lunch is an
especially good, inexpensive deal). <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1474577330406-beetroot+copy.jpg"> Barbecued beetroot with goat’s cheese, pistachio and bitter leaves 

The Harwood Arms was built in about
1840 as a pub, and it certainly looks and acts the part. No fancy tablecloths
or linen but elegant “country-style” table settings, a chalkboard with the
daily specials, and very good wines by the glass await you to start your
meal off. The modern day history of The Harwood Arms begins only in 2008, when
three UK food luminaries joined forces; and so the collaboration between Brett
Graham (of The Ledbury), Mike Robinson (of The Pot Kiln), and Edwin Vaux (The
Vaux Brewery) has led to the creation of what is truly a fine dining jewel
that has reaped countless awards and boasts a very well deserved one Michelin
star. Chef Alex Harper began his career working under Mark Wilkinson at
Latymer, then worked at Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, reached head chef status
at the much acclaimed Texture, then worked more years under Graham at The
Ledbury, possibly London’s best restaurant. He has been head chef of The
Harwood Arms since April 2014.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1474577347356-monkfish+copy.jpg"> Cornish monkfish tail with a white bean broth, Isle of Wight tomatoes and basil 

I recently had another wonderful
meal at The Harwood Arms, one that I will easily remember as one of my most
pleasant eating experiences of 2016. Although I love the signature venison
chorizo at the Harwood, after having taken a gander at the wine list, I passed
on this staple of mine to concentrate on fish. And I am glad I did: the Cornish
monkfish tail with a white bean broth, Isle of Wight tomatoes and basil and the
Cornish sea bass with Jersey Royals, pickled mussels, smoked eel, and sorrel
were outstandingly prepared and plated, with thick, beautifully snow white
colored rich fish meat and very precise accompaniments that nicely framed,
rather than overpowered, the complex but subtle flavors of the two fishes. For
us wine and food lovers, the Isle of Wight tomatoes are especially noteworthy: as
if it’s spectacular seaside views weren’t enough, England’s largest Island
produces close to 60% of all organic tomatoes farmed in the United Kingdom. Yellow
cherry, baby plum, large cocktail, and tiger zebra are but some of the sixteen
varieties grown on the island and sold commercially, and as they are reputed to
be the United Kingdom’s best tomatoes at all, they can be easily found in
higher level UK food emporiums like Waitrose,
Sainsbury’s or Marks &amp; Spencer. Last but not least, a sweets lover
such as myself rarely passes on dessert, and I am glad I didn’t on this evening
(you will be too): the coffee&amp;doughnuts were so good I could have easily
ordered another two servings, but my abdominal girth is such now that I thought
better of it (reluctantly, I’ll admit).<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1474639031470-sea+bass+copy+2.jpg"> Cornish sea bass with Jersey Royals, pickled mussole, smoked eel, and sorrel 

My meal was made that much better by
the three absolutely gorgeous wines I tried on this night. I love English
sparklers. Their bright acidity is such that they are extremely food friendly
and perfect not just as aperitifs, but ideal dinner companions for most of
almost any meal’s duration. I started with an irresistible quaffer,&nbsp;the 2010 Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs
Traditional Method Kent, which was&nbsp;loaded with delicate white flowers, honey and
nectarine aromas and flavors nicely complemented by nuances of buttered toast
and hazelnut. Showcasing lovely balance and sneaky concentration, it’s a
testament to winemaker’s Charlie Holland ability at teasing out round, complex
flavors.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1474638579166-HARWOOD+WINES+1.JPG+copy.JPG"> Next up, the 2010 Hush Heath
Estate Balfour Traditional Method Brut Rosé Kent is an extremely enjoyable
blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, redolent of delicate
redcurrant aromas and flavors complicated by a gingery and white pepper
spiciness. Last but certainly not least, the 2000 Vincent Girardin Le Montrachet Grand Cru showed just how
unimaginably great the wines from this hallowed vineyard can be when the grape
vines are tended by talented, passionate individuals. Over the years, I have
had my share of duds (or at the very least, wines that were far less than what
they should have been given their pedigree) from this near mythical site, but
there’s no such danger with this specific vintage from Girardin, who came
up with a masterpiece. Rich, dense and magically perfumed, with hints of orange
blossom and acacia complementing honeyed orchard fruits, fresh citrus and marzipan
aromas and flavors, this beautiful wine featured a suave texture and massive
concentration, while remaining elegant and light on its feet at the same time
(not exactly an easy feat).

At meal’s end, I walked out of The
Harwood Arms and into Fulham’s busy streets brimming with happy people and found
myself thinking that I have never had less than a wonderful meal at The Harwood
Arms. In fact, most have been downright exceptional, just like this last one.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1474638850891-coffee+and+doughnuts+copy.jpg"> Coffee&amp;doughnuts

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