<a target="_blank" href="http://lecaillerdubistrot.fr/">L'Ecailler du Bistrot</a>

22 Rue Paul Bert

75011 Paris, France

+33 1 43 72 76 77

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 22, 2026

The Food:

Plateau Homard Bleu

Bistrot Paul Bert Filet of Beef au Poivre

Thinly sliced apples; vanilla ice cream, salted butter
caramel

Citrus sorbet

The Wine:

2014 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Pur Sang&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 94

One of my fondest childhood memories is sitting in a
Parisian café with my parents, indulging in what then seemed like a huge plateau
de fruits de mer. Even today, enjoying this culinary delight with a nice
glass of wine remains a quintessential Parisian delight. With that in mind, we
booked a table L'Ecailler du Bistrot on the suggestion of a dear friend.

Located in the 11th Arrondissement, L'Ecailler du
Bistrot is the sister restaurant of the well-known Bistrot Paul Bert, which is
just next door. As its name implies, L'Ecailler du Bistrot specializes in
oysters, along with mostly fish and seafood. The restaurant is quite small and
cozy, which adds to its considerable ambience. We love the vibe. L'Ecailler’s
wine list is small but well curated. A selection of older wines is a nice
surprise. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1779470564029-Plateau_Vinous.jpg">Plateau Homard Bleu.

It’s our first night in Paris. After a long day of travel,
dinner is on the lighter side this time around. The Plateau Homard Bleu
consists of one-half blue lobster, red shrimp, whelks, 4 Belon oysters and 4 creuse
oysters. Everything tastes like the ocean. We are off to a fine start. The

Bistrot Paul Bert Filet of Beef au Poivre is a favorite from
next door. The meat is perfectly cooked and then topped with a bold Sarawak
pepper sauce. This is as classic as classic gets.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1779470580151-Filet_Vinous.jpg">Bistrot Paul Bert Filet of Beef au Poivre.

I was fortunate to be introduced to Didier Dagueneau and his
wines in the 1990s, long before the wine world became obsessed with cult
labels. The Loire is one of my favorite regions, in part because I approach it more
as a consumer rather than as a critic. I especially love the whites with bottle
age, so there is no way I am going to pass up a chance to drink the 

2014 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Pur Sang, made just a few
years before Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau took his family’s wines out of the
traditional appellation system. Aromatic and so expressive, the 2014 Pur Sang
offers the whole range of mature Sauvignon Blanc notes, along with a kiss of
French oak and light tropical overtones. The 2014 has aged impeccably, but I
also don’t see it improving much from here. It’s a great match with the
seafood, perhaps less ideal with the beef, but absolutely delicious by any
measure. We enjoy it greatly. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1779470597493-VT+Wine_Vinous.jpg">Thinly sliced apples with vanilla ice cream and salted
butter caramel is another staple of the French kitchen, like a tart without the
tart. Citrus sorbet is a wonderfully vibrant and refreshing conclusion to
dinner.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1779470618662-Apple_Vinous.jpg">Thinly sliced apples; vanilla ice cream, salted butter
caramel.

L'Ecailler du Bistrot is well worth a visit.
Readers spending time in some of the more touristy neighborhoods in Paris will
want to plan adequate travel time. My only regret is not having explored the
menu more deeply. For that, there is always next time.© 2026, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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