More than 30 years after opening, Gramercy Tavern remains a benchmark for fine dining in New York City. That’s saying a lot in a town where restaurants come and go practically every day. I first dined at Gramercy Tavern in 2005, shortly after I moved to New York City. It quickly became a favorite. While most articles in our Vinous Table column are about a special meal, this article is a departure, mostly because I have been to Gramercy so many times over the years that I find it challenging to reduce my experiences to a meal or two.