Anthocyane Wine Bistrot

4 Rue Poterne 

21200 Beaune

France

BY NEAL
MARTIN | OCTOBER 17, 2025

The Food:

Ceviche
of sea bass with coriander and lemon

Joue de
boeuf (beef cheeks) Parmentier

Crémeux
Verveine with poached rhubarb crumble

The Wines:
<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>NV Étienne Calsac Extra Brut Les
Revenants</td>
 <td>90</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2023 Chanterêves
Bourgogne Aligoté</td>
 <td>90</td>
 </tr>
<tr>
 <td>2023 Laisse Tomber
Bourgogne Rouge</td>
 <td>88</td>
 </tr>
<tr>
 <td>2022 Maison Valéria Naudin
Nuits-Saint-Georges La Petite Charmotte&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</td>
 <td>89</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2016 Domaine de Montbourgeau&nbsp;Vin Jaune&nbsp;L’Étoile </td>
 <td>NR</td>
 </tr></tbody></table>

Each Burgfest, the young‘uns of the group—which includes yours truly on account of mental age—gather for an informal supper at a local bistro where we debrief after the day’s tasting and exchange salacious gossip. If only the walls of Anthocyanes Wine Bistrot had ears! This new bistro on the site of the relocated La Ligne seafood restaurant lies in the heart of Beaune, close to Place Carnot. One member of our parish promised a strong list of small, hip producers, so on a Tuesday evening, eight of us entered Anthocyane’s doors to check out the food and vino.&nbsp;Anthocyane has all the tropes: a short menu of French classics given a twist chalked up on a blackboard and a wine list that invites you to sidestep overpriced names. Like many in Beaune, it is a bijou restaurant with around 20 covers. Hence, the limited menu of three choices per course in order not to stretch the kitchen. There is a decent choice between fish and meat, but vegetarians will be disappointed, as there is nothing to cater to them. Plus ça change—this is France.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1760542047047-sea+bass_VT.JPG">Ceviche of sea bass with coriander and lemon.

I begin with a ceviche of sea bass with coriander and lemon. Beaune is not really renowned for its seafood, despite a top-notch fishmonger close to the train station. This ceviche is excellent, the fish glistening and fresh, assiduously seasoned so that the flavours spring out of the dish.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1760542059208-joue+de+boeuf_VT.JPG">Joue de boeuf Parmentier.

I choose the joue de boeuf (beef cheek) Parmentier, which is served piping hot. It’s not a huge serving, but that’s fine by me. This is not too rich, the beef cheeks meltingly soft, the coating of potato topping fluffy and nicely crisped. My dish seems to go down better than others who opted for the lamb, some commenting that it was slightly overdone.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1760542078776-creme+verveine_VT.jpg">Crémeux
Verveine with poached rhubarb crumble.

To finish, a crémeux Verveine with poached rhubarb crumble. I’m a sucker for a crumble, and since rhubarb is in season, it’s an easy choice. That said, I am not totally convinced that it marries well with the crémeux Verveine. Let’s say the couple puts up with each other.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1760542170647-les+revenants_VT.JPG">Our group shared five bottles that all leaned towards young winemakers. Bubbles were provided by the NV Extra Brut Les Revenants from Étienne Calsac, disgorged in February 2024, a blend of 50% Pinot Blanc, 45% Petit Meslier and 5% Arbane planted in the lieu-dit of Les Fours in Côte de Sezanne. It’s Calsac’s homage to unorthodox grape varieties, a tribute to his ancestors. Now this really works, vibrant and delineated on the nose with blackcurrant leaf, subtle yeasty notes and crushed stone. The palate follows suit: very well balanced with a silver thread of acidity that keeps it on its toes. The varieties are unusual, but they combine beautifully and linger on the finish. This is well worth seeking out, though my colleague Anne Krebiehl, MW, already told you that in <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/wines/131281/0?wineId=623644">her report</a>!Next, the 2023 Bourgogne Aligoté from Chanterêves. This is a producer that I would like to like more, but I have often found the wines just lacking in complexity. That said, proprietors Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott own their parcel of Aligoté, and for me, this is their strongest cuvée. It translates the variety with style, delivering hints of brioche and grilled hazelnuts on the nose. The palate has an irresistible creamy texture that is neatly countered by the acidity. There is commendable purity to this Aligoté. It should offer several years of drinking pleasure.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1760542186507-laisse+tomber_VT.JPG">Moving to the reds, we checked out Laisse Tomber, the négociant moniker for German-born winemaker Bastian Wolber, who has previously worked at Ganevat and Bizot. The 2023 Bourgogne Rouge has sprightly cranberry and redcurrant scents on the nose, nothing overly complex, but there is plenty of fruit and joie de vivre. The palate is crunchy and fresh, with a pleasant piquancy that gets the saliva flowing. It’s a solid regional Pinot Noir that shows Wolber knows what he’s doing. Partly because of his previous tenures, there is a bit of a cult following around these wines with prices that seem high, though I am assured that Wolber has no pretensions or rock-star ambitions.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1760542203263-valeria+naudin_VT.JPG">Valéria Naudin worked for several years in Ladoix at Michel Mallard (who recently departed Domaine d’Eugénie to focus on his namesake winery). Her first vintage was in 2020. The 2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges La Petite Charmotte takes a little aeration to click into gear, offering quite precocious yet controlled blueberry-tinged red fruit that leans towards Vosne in style. The palate is well balanced, clean and pure, tightly wound on the finish, which suggests it will benefit from another couple of years in bottle. Finally, some scallywag inflicted the 2016 Vin Jaune L’Étoile from Domaine de Montbourgeau upon me after I protested that I just cannot get on with the oxidative style. This is well regarded by Jura fanatics, but frankly, it’s just not my cup of tea. I find it too acrid. I feel as if I am not cool because I just do not enjoy it. Hey, I am fine being uncool. I will not score it, because that’s like a Megadeth fan reviewing the latest Taylor Swift album.Anthocyane Wine Bistrot does what is says on the tin. It’s a useful addition to Beaune’s culinary scene, not unlike the beloved Caves Madeleine, which seems permanently booked. Prices are reasonable, around 12€ for starters and 25€ for mains, which means you can splash out on the intriguing wine list. That’s the main draw for Vinous readers, because at Anthocyane, you can find hard-to-get names without silly premiums.&nbsp;© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.&nbsp;

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