Welcome to the Dark Side: A Savory Chocolate Feast

BY ERIC GUIDO | AUGUST 21, 2020

Graphic artist, children's book illustrator, musician, designer, amateur chef and professional chocolate taster (you read that right); these are just a few of the talents that make Genevieve Leloup one of the most interesting people I know. However, what inspired me to invite her onto an episode of Vinous in the Kitchen is Genevieve’s ability to mix her passion for chocolate and cooking to create some of the tastiest and thought-provoking dishes imaginable.

Now, if your mind has suddenly taken you to thinking of simple samples of fine chocolate and sweet dishes gingerly laid out for the taster’s enjoyment, STOP. Instead, imagine a meal centered on every manifestation of chocolate imaginable. Savory, salty, sour and sweet. 

Genevieve Leloup's culinary education started in one of the best schools possible: her mother's kitchen. The daughter of a masterful cook and professional baker, Genevieve would spend as much time as possible learning the tricks of the trade. It wasn’t long before she started to record her knowledge and preparations in a food diary, written by hand, which serves as a collection of recipes, friends and culinary memories. She still uses this book, and she even brought it along with her to share these recipes with you and me.

Not only did she school me in using chocolate for savory preparations and the responsible practice of seeking out bean-to-bar creations, she also taught me a lot about how to taste chocolate. 

Tasting Chocolate 101

Much like wine, chocolate only reveals its best traits when given the proper attention. For instance, you should first allow the chocolate to warm a bit in your hand, and then cup your hands around your nose and breath in deeply. Remember, what we taste is really what we smell (as a matter of fact, between 60%-70%). Next, place the chocolate in your mouth and chew for only a very short while. Push the chocolate up against the top of your palate (it’s the warmest spot in your mouth), which will warm it even further. Throughout this process, remember to breathe deeply and let the air pass over your palate as you do so. Move the chocolate around your mouth and chew as it feels natural. In the end, you can find more aromas and flavors in a piece of chocolate than you can in even the most complex wines. 

Back to the Savory Side

With Genevieve at the helm, and me playing swing chef and sommelier, we created three savory preparations using three different kinds of chocolate. For the sauce (or condiment) that would go with the fish, we used an 85% bean-to-bar chocolate. For the fish itself, we coated it in an earthy, fruity and nutty mixture of hazelnut, rosemary and cacao nibs (which are basically roasted and crushed cacao beans). Lastly, for the Roasted Beet and Chocolate Crostini, we used a fine cacao powder. To cap off our evening, I created my ultimate cheese plate which, of course, was adorned with pieces of dark chocolate for snacking, but that’s another episode for another day. Follow the recipes below, and you’ll be amazed by the results. The chocolate never overpowered in any of these preparations. Instead, it accentuated and added depths of unexpected aromas and flavors.

As for the wine pairings, which is likely the part of these preparations that most people would assume is the most intimidating, it’s actually easier than you think. When you consider what to pair with chocolate, it’s the level of sweetness that you must consider first. The sweeter the chocolate, the further you get from being able to pair it with a dry wine. Sweeter wines work well when you fall below 80% dark chocolate. In fact, if I was asked to pair a wine with dark chocolate, but not a savory chocolate dish, my first thought would be an off-dry, bubbly Lambrusco. However, once we reach the level of milk chocolate, it’s better to look at something like bourbon, which is a perfect chocolate pairing. What’s interesting about the preparations below is that the more difficult thing to pair with is the acidity, not the chocolate. As for the fish itself, think of it more as a neutral vessel that’s carrying the amazingly complex flavors and aromas of the crust we’re creating. When you consider that, the pairing options change drastically. Below are my suggestions, but I think it also pays to mention that the wine that paired best with all of these recipes was the white Burgundy. 

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The video tutorial is packed full of hints and tips to create the perfect savory chocolate feast.

The Wine Pairings:

Gewürztraminer (This is a perfect pairing for all things fish and especially the beet and chocolate spread.)

- Featured: 2018 Kofererhof Valle Isarco Gewürztraminer. Find it on Delectable.

Riesling Kabinett (An off-dry and filigree Riesling has the acidity and ripeness to handle everything on these plates.)

- Featured: 2015 Weingut Johannishof Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett. Find it on Delectable. 

Riesling Trocken or GG (This is a game of contrasts, using the intense acids of the Riesling to counterbalance the dressings, sauces and citrus on these plates.)

- Featured: 2012 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Trocken. Find it on Delectable.