Veneto Rising: Amarone, Soave and BeyondBY ERIC GUIDO | SEPTEMBER 25, 2025There has never been a more exciting time to love and collect the wines of Veneto. The region offers something for every palate, traversing multiple styles and numerous varieties. Whether the wines are traditional, modern or experimental, quality has soared well above past levels, all while maintaining reasonable prices.The selection of exceptional wines from diverse locations across Veneto is almost dizzying. The most widely known region, Valpolicella, spans the three valleys of the Classico zone, the Valpantena Valley and the eastern plains that abut Soave. These areas include a unique selection of elevations and soil types, from volcanic to calcareous clay and alluvial deposits. Here, Amarone, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso and Recioto all fit neatly into a spectrum from everyday drinkers to long-term agers.Then there’s Soave, one of the most popular categories in Italy. Soave spans the extensive plains that give rise to an ocean of easy-drinking wines, but also the volcanic hills of the Soave Classico zone, home to some of the best terroir-focused white wines in all of Italy.Gaining in both popularity and quality the Lugana DOC delivers fruit-forward yet mineral-driven whites, hailing from clay- and limestone-rich glacial moraine soils off the shores of Lake Garda. Each year, I am more impressed by new offerings emerging from this category.Let’s not forget Bardolino, the area situated to the west of Valpolicella and focused on the same varieties done in a more approachable style reminiscent of Beaujolais. And now, there’s the newly formed group: Grandi Vitigni Tradizionali del Veneto. For the last few years, I’ve spoken about the growing category of red wines from across Veneto (not from Valpolicella), where varieties like Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are king. For decades, producers like Maculan, Vignalta and Inama worked diligently to grow consumer awareness of the Colli Berici, Colli Euganei, Montello Asolo and Colli di Conegliano appellations. Today, these producers have organized with other family-run wineries in Veneto to put a name to their campaign. This remains a work in progress outside the long-standing top performers, but the potential is incredibly high. Readers will find notes from all of these areas in this report.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758812479272-Lake+Garda+and+the+mountains+to+the+north+provide+cooling+relief+to+both+Valpolicella+and+Lugana_Vinous.jpg">Lake Garda and the mountains to the north provide cooling relief to both Valpolicella and Lugana.Redefining Amarone and Valpolicella Superiore

I
often write about the difficulties winemakers face, typically concerning
challenging vintages and severe weather brought about by climate change. As a
region, Valpolicella handles these issues well, especially because Amarone, its
most famous wine, excels in warm years. However, Valpolicella faces a distinct
problem in its top wines: sugar. Conversations about residual sugar in wine are
a constant at nearly every one of my tasting appointments in Veneto. The reason
for this is the general public’s modern-day awareness of the health risks associated
with sugar consumption. Unfortunately, the solution to lowering residual sugar is
not just a matter of fermenting more sugar from the wine, as that can
compromise balance. Wine is built around a delicate equilibrium of acidity,
tannin, alcohol and sugar. If a winemaker ferments out more sugar, it creates
more alcohol, which may interact poorly with the acidity or emphasize the
tannins, potentially resulting in a beast of a wine that no one would enjoy drinking.
Some producers do a fantastic job of achieving this low-sugar balance. Brigaldara,
Monte dall’Ora, Speri, Tedeschi and (maybe surprising to some readers) Dal
Forno Romano all come to mind.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758812499097-A+diverse+selection+of+high-performing+Amarone+spanning+multiple+vintages+and+styles_Vinous.jpg">A range of high-performing Amarone spanning multiple
vintages and styles.A certain amount of sugar, or the perception of sweetness, must
remain for an Amarone to taste and perform how one would expect. While these
modern-day, low-sugar examples of Amarone are fantastic, they are quite
different from the wines of ten to twenty years ago, nearly to the point of
needing their own classification. The obligatory question about Amarone is, “What
do you pair it with?” For these savory wines, it’s as easy as pairing them with
any hearty meal or fatty cut of meat. Moreover, these wines can age just as
well as traditional Amarone. I love both styles, which I think is clear from my
reviews. However, we are entering a time where some producers are beginning to experiment
with their techniques, hoping to emulate the success of others and follow
trends, and it doesn’t always go well.



It’s
also critical to consider the appassimento process (drying grapes to
concentrate their sugars) that creates Amarone, as well as the ripasso
process (when a fresh Valpolicella re-ferments in contact with the lees and
skins of an Amarone fermentation). Both approaches create glycerol richness and
a perception of sweetness in the resulting wines, a trick of the palate and the
mind. Just because an Amarone tastes sweet doesn’t mean it contains an elevated
amount of residual sugar. Readers will find comments on producers' styles
throughout my notes.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758812533397-On+the+ridge+separating+the+Tramigna+and+Illasi+valleys+at+the+Trabucchi+vineyards%2C+now+managed+by+the+Dal+Forno+Brothers_Vinous.jpg">The ridge separating the Tramigna and Illasi Valleys at the
Trabucchi vineyards, now managed by the Dal Forno brothers.

Another common topic, which winemakers believe is a
significant hurdle for younger audiences, is alcohol content. I refer to the
microbrewery trend that is all the rage in countries like the United States,
and the popularity of IPAs (India Pale Ale) that reach and sometimes exceed
9.5% ABV. The younger generation does not fear alcohol as much as some of my
peers believe they do. The topic of alcohol percentage among wine collectors is
also widely misunderstood. Anyone who raises an eyebrow at an Amarone at 16-17%
ABV may want to consider the alcohol content of their favorite Châteauneuf du
Pape or Paso Robles Grenache. Alcohol plays into the same dance of balance I referred
to above, and when a wine achieves that perfect harmony, alcohol content is completely
unnoticeable. Some producers across the globe have begun using processes to de-alcoholize
wines, and the results that I’ve tasted have been unimpressive. I can’t imagine
a world of wine without alcohol.&nbsp;

That
brings me to Valpolicella Superiore, which many winemakers see as the answer to
the questions of both sugar and alcohol. I think they’re right. Instead of dropping
Amarone or Ripasso from their portfolios, many producers are seeking to craft wines
made from fresh (not appassimento) grapes in an effort to communicate
terroir. They believe in the prestige of indigenous varieties— Corvina,
Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara—and their ability to yield high-quality dry
wines. I’ve witnessed the emergence of the category firsthand, and this is
truly an exciting time for winemakers and consumers. The best Valpolicella
Superiores reach the same quality level as wines like Chianti Classico, Etna
Rosso and top-level Rosso di Montalcino. These wines represent exceptional
value, pair extremely well with a diverse array of cuisines and often have the ability
to age. This report is full of great examples from this category.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758812553111-The+undulating+hillside+vineyards+of+Soave+Classico_Vinous.jpg">Undulating hillside vineyards in Soave Classico.

The Trials and Tribulations of Soave Classico

What does Soave Classico have to do to gain the respect it
deserves? Incredibly, misconceptions or branding from the past can haunt a
winemaking region for decades. The biggest enemy of Soave Classico is Soave
itself. Verdicchio from Marche, Etna Bianco, Fiano di Avellino from Campania and
the diverse offerings from across Friuli all enjoy worldwide perception as Italy’s
top white wines. And while a quick online search will tell you that Soave is better
recognized than all of those, that typically refers to an easy-drinking,
mass-produced, value-oriented wine from the flat alluvial plains that connect
with Valpolicella. That completely overlooks the hills of Soave Classico, a
patchwork of terroirs that often play host to ancient vines. While
mass-produced Soave (usually blended with Trebbiano Toscano or even Chardonnay)
is made for immediate consumption, Soave Classico can age remarkably well.

Soave Classico and
its leading producers aren’t content to sit on their hands and hope that the
wine-drinking public comes around. Instead, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Soave e
Recioto di Soave devised a classification system of 33 crus/UGAs (Unità
Geografica Aggiuntiva), allowing producers to label their wines with the
specific vineyard source. This gives consumers a better understanding of a wine's
origin and distinct character. The Consorzio also published multiple detailed
maps that break down soil types, exposures and history. Most importantly, they
are now placing more emphasis von blends, focusing more on Garganega and its
low-yielding traditional partner Trebbiano di Soave, while moving away from
other varieties. Trebbiano di Soave is a high-quality Trebbiano clone that, through
DNA analysis, has been connected to Trebbiano di Lugana (which makes Lugana)
and Verdicchio. These days, I observe the use of the Soave Classico Superiore
DOCG more frequently. This is an excellent sign, because these winemakers are
willing to commit to lower yields (10 tons per hectare) and fermenting the
wines dry. Readers who enjoy complex, site-transparent, long-lived white wines
should add Soave Classico to their cellars&nbsp;&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758812570422-Valentina+Tessari+of+the+Suavia+winery+talking+about+the+importance+of+place+in+Soave+Classico_Vinous.jpg">Valentina Tessari of Suavia discussing the importance of
place in Soave Classico.

Time to Talk Vintages

Discussing vintages in a Veneto report is always tricky. Despite
their proximity, the two major regions of Valpolicella and Soave are remarkably
different. The hearty Garganega grape in Soave often resists mildew and mold,
while the red varieties in Valpolicella are more susceptible. Adding to the
complexity is the staggered release schedule of the wines. This report focuses
mainly on Soave from the 2023 and 2024 vintages, while Valpolicella and
Valpolicella Superiore are primarily from 2021, 2022 and 2023. Most of the
Amarones in this report are from the 2020 and 2019 vintages.

The best news for lovers of Valpolicella is that the 2019s
are just as exciting as I’d hoped. Despite the warm conditions of the season,
including two heatwaves, the 2019s are vibrant, fruit-intense, structured
Amarones that impress with their radiance. Many are built for long-term
cellaring, but most are already enjoyable today. I often comment on Amarone's
ability to excel through warm vintages, and 2019 is a perfect example of just
that.

Many of the 2020 Amarones reflect the season's
difficulties through their rich fruit profiles and lack of complexity, but there
are still many success stories from this rollercoaster vintage. A series of
extreme weather shifts defined the year. A period of intense heat and then cold
followed a rainy June, with each month representing a dramatic change from the
last. The heat in August caused vines to shut down. However, the most
significant challenge of the vintage was hail. While the valleys of Fumane and
Marano were spared, the broader Valpolicella area lost fruit from roughly 1,000
hectares of vines. Brigladara winemaker Antonio Cesari explained, "The big
problem with 2020 was the hail. Anyone who received hail between June and
August may have lost everything. If you didn’t, you could make pretty good
wine."

Most of the 2021s in this report are late-release
Soave and Valpolicella Superiore, both of which show the year's potential. It
was a hot yet balanced vintage without heat spikes and. A temperate harvest
season allowed winemakers to make picking decisions based on their desired
level of ripeness. I’m excited about the 2021 Amarones, so keep your eyes
peeled.

The
2022s come across just as I had predicted: rich, round and viscous. The
region experienced drought conditions throughout the season, compounded by warm
to hot temperatures. A few things could help in 2022, such as higher
elevations, emergency irrigation and pergola vine-training, but overall, the
2022s are more immediate wines. So far, my tastings have revealed more success
in Soave than in Valpolicella.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758812591251-paolo_Vinous.jpg">Paolo Fornaser of Monte Faustino speaking about the
importance of vine age and Pergola training in Valpolicella.The 2023 vintage was challenging for winemakers
across Veneto, though some fared better than others. While red varieties in
Valpolicella struggled, white grapes like Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave
proved more resilient. The season began with unseasonably warm temperatures,
but a cool, rainy and cloudy spring soon followed, creating ideal conditions
for downy mildew (Peronospora). Winemakers were forced to treat their
vines constantly, a complicated struggle for organic producers who rely on less
aggressive copper and sulfur treatments to maintain compliance. The weather
shifted dramatically in July and August, turning extremely hot and dry. This
heat stressed the vines, leading to uneven ripening and dehydrated berries. As
a result, meticulous selection was crucial during harvest. Luca Speri of the
Speri winery noted that an optical sorter was essential for ensuring only
healthy fruit entered the winery, leading to a 10-15% reduction of their total
production. However, in Soave, winemakers reported an easier time. The region's
well-draining volcanic soils, combined with the natural mold-resistance of
Garganega, helped protect the vineyards from the worst of the mildew.



The
2024 vintage was extremely difficult, as witnessed in many of the young
Soaves I tasted for this report. A large portion of these wines show signs of
dilution and greenness, lacking in overall complexity. Even the resilient
Garganega grape, known for its resistance to mold and disease, succumbed to Peronospora
during the harvest. The season started with balanced precipitation in the
spring. A classic hot, dry July and August led many to anticipate an excellent
vintage. However, the weather took a turn for the worse in late September with
an extended period of cool, wet conditions. Rain lasted through harvest,
forcing wineries to pick between storms and making it nearly impossible to
achieve full physiological ripeness. The persistent moisture caused Peronospora
to spread rapidly, followed by the onset of rot within the grape bunches.
Matteo Inama, winemaker at Inama, described the unprecedented challenges: “I’d
never seen Garganega rot until 2024. The grapes went from green to yellow, then
to a shade of violet, the first sign of noble rot, but it was quickly moving
toward a bad rot. We were rushing to pick on an emergency basis.” As a result, readers
should expect a significant reduction in production, with totals down by
approximately 25-30%. The quality of the 2024 wines will largely depend on a
producer's willingness to make difficult decisions and adapt. At Inama, for
example, all lots were kept separate, pulled off the lees early and blended
only after ensuring the juice's purity. I anticipate 2024 will be a highly
variable throughout Veneto, and I will update readers on the status of the red wines
as they are released.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758812674660-Looking+out+across+San+Pietro+in+Cariano+within+the+Valpolicella+Classico+area_Vinous.jpg">Looking out across San Pietro in Cariano within the
Valpolicella Classico area.

I
tasted the wines in this report during producer visits throughout Veneto in
July 2025.© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/veneto-a-constant-state-of-evolution-feb-2024">Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution</a>, Eric Guido, February 2024<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/veneto-the-land-of-opportunity-mar-2023">Veneto: The Land of Opportunity</a>, Eric Guido, March 2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/on-the-cusp-of-evolution-amarone-and-valpolicella-apr-2022">On the Cusp of Evolution: Amarone and Valpolicella</a>, Eric Guido, April 2022 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/soave-the-long-road-home-apr-2022">Soave - The Long Road Home</a>, Eric Guido, April 2022

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