Tuscany’s
Quintessential UnderdogsBY ERIC GUIDO |
APRIL 21, 2026Condensing all of Tuscany into a single report is nearly
impossible without sacrificing detail. While other Italian regions might allow
for a generalized assessment of terroir, Tuscany requires a far more nuanced
approach, which is why we offer annual coverage of Brunello di Montalcino,
Chianti Classico, Nobile di Montepulciano and Coastal Tuscany in separate
reports throughout the year. This article focuses on hundreds of other wines
from smaller appellations that are just as notable.Of the hundreds of wines I tasted for this report, a
significant portion are labeled as IGT Toscana. These wines often originate
from terroirs that have yet to be fully understood and quantified, such as the
massive and varied Val d’Orcia, or the high-elevation slopes of Mount Amiata,
which has become a hotbed for experimental projects. Be they young winemakers
tending old vines with limited production, or multi-generational families that
are finally expanding to a broader audience, producers in the smaller towns and
subregions of Tuscany deserve attention. Some of these areas have actually benefited
from climate change, and the untapped potential here is truly astonishing. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776782031770-Vineyards+in+the+Orcia+Valley%2C+a+vast+expanse+land+with+pockets+of+amazing+terroir_Vinous.jpg">Vineyards in the vast Orcia Valley, which has pockets of terroir capable of turning out top-flight wines.While this report focuses on a broad mix of different
terroirs and varieties, I consider it one of the most important pieces I write
each year. Without a highly regarded DOC or DOCG, or the branding of a big name
like Brunello or Montepulciano to emblazon on their labels, these producers
have to work especially hard to ensure that their wines will live up to
consumers’ expectations. Carmignano: International by DesignCarmignano is one of the most important but underrecognized
appellations in Italy. Though Carmignano is geographically small, production
here makes up a significant portion of Tuscany’s output year after year.
Carmignano stands out from the rest of the region for its historical tendency to
blend Sangiovese with Bordeaux varieties. While much of the modern Tuscan
movement has pushed toward single-variety Sangioveses, producers in Carmignano continue
to blend Sangiovese with 10-20% Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc, and to a
lesser extent, Merlot, just as they have for centuries.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776781813064-Tuscany+EG+Cover_Vinous.jpg">The view of Carmignano from Capezzana.This is not a new "international" trend; Cabernet
Sauvignon has a documented 500-year history in these soils. Occupying the
eastern hills of Monte Albano northwest of Florence, Carmignano includes a
secluded, bowl-shaped valley. The hills of Monte Albano and the Apennines form
its western and eastern borders, respectively, blocking warming air currents
from the Tyrrhenian Sea. This creates a unique microclimate where the more
exposed low elevations (53 to 400 meters) are offset by unusually cool nights.
Thick forest outcroppings surround the vineyards and further moderate the dry,
sun-soaked summer days. The undulating hills are a lush green even during the
warmest times of year.This terroir yields rich, fruit-forward reds elevated by
limestone-infused minerality, vibrant acidity and regal tannins. Recent
vertical tastings at Piaggia and Tenuta di Capezzana demonstrated
that these wines possess incredible aging potential, often maturing effortlessly
for over two decades. Carmignano produces world-class Merlot, as evidenced by monovarietal
bottlings from producers like Colline San Biagio and Fabrizio Pratesi.Each year, I am more and more impressed by the steady rise
in quality in Carmignano, driven by a tight-knit group of producers who reflect
a truly collaborative spirit.Montecucco: Too Big for its BritchesMontecucco has made a lot of progress over the last several
years, but its immense potential is still largely unrealized. Montecucco acts as
a natural land bridge between the southern reaches of Montalcino and the
coastal Maremma. This positioning creates an incredibly diverse terroir with
drastic changes in elevation throughout its 965 square kilometers. In
the southwest, near the coast, fractured sandstone and maritime influences yield
ripe, juicy, Mediterranean-styled wines. Vermentino excels here for that very
reason, though the quality of Montecucco Sangiovese is less consistent.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776781856968-The+Vineyards+of+Montecucco+looking+out+toward+the+Tuscan+coast_Vinous.jpg">Vineyards in Montecucco, looking toward the Tuscan coast.However, Montecucco’s northeast border with Montalcino is
full of potential. Here, Mount Amiata's volcanic influence defines the
landscape. As elevations rise toward 500 meters, the soils shift to a complex
mix of red clay, loam and limestone. Producers such as ColleMassari, Basile
and Salustri are leading a quality revolution, focusing on the
Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG. I hope to see more estates following their lead.
Sangiovese here is richer and bolder than in Montalcino, characterized by dark
fruit, savory spice and a distinctively dusty tannic structure. Montecucco Rosso,
for which producers blend Sangiovese with international varieties, is often rounder,
earlier-drinking and more approachable.The Ascent of Mount AmiataThe most exciting development in Southern Tuscany is the
move toward the higher slopes of Mount Amiata. As warming trends continue to
impact the lower valleys, winemakers are looking to elevations between 600 and
800 meters to derive tension and finesse. The conditions at these heights,
marked by limestone, Flysch marls and volcanic sands, are ideal for mineral-driven
Sangioveses with high-toned acidity.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776781872757-Mount+Amiata+looming+in+the+distance+from+Montalcino_Vinous.jpg">Mount Amiata looms large in the distance, as seen from
Montalcino.Producers throughout Montalcino, Val d'Orcia and Montecucco
are paying close attention to the select few who have planted stakes on Mount
Amiata. While current DOC rules often limit these high-altitude plantings to
IGT Toscana status, the work of pioneers like Sebastian Nasello of Bakkanali
is proving that Mount Amiata may be the next great frontier for Tuscan
viticulture.&nbsp;Cortona: A Taste of the RhôneThe hilltop town of Cortona and its surrounding vineyards
mark the easternmost appellation in Tuscany. It’s also one of the most unique.
Sangiovese may be king everywhere else, but in Cotrona, Syrah takes the
spotlight. The Cortona DOC was established in 1999, but according to local
legend, the presence of Syrah in the region dates back to the early twentieth
century. Then, in the 1970s, Professor Attilio Scienza of the University of
Milan conducted soil and climate research that demonstrated the terroir’s close
resemblance to the Northern Rhône. Experimental plantings throughout the region
confirmed Syrah’s potential, and today it accounts for 80% of plantings in
Cortona.Cortona is unlike anywhere else in Tuscany. The Apennines
loom in the distance, and the sun beats down hard on clay-heavy soils laced
with silt and sand. One could mistakenly believe they were in a desert region, given
the intense daytime heat and large diurnal shifts. The resulting Syrah is dark
and brooding, but nowhere near as feral and herbal as examples from the Rhône. A
balance of acidity and minerality gives these wines appeal in their youth, though
they can mature remarkably well for upwards of 20 years. Recent tastings show a
trend toward purity and lift, as producers like Stefano Amerighi, Fabrizio
Dionisio and Tenimenti d'Alessandro focus on viticulture to better
understand which clones and practices work best.Recent VintagesThe 2023 vintage proved difficult across Tuscany due to
heavy, prolonged spring rains. Sangiovese fell victim to a Peronospora
(downy mildew) outbreak, which I’ve detailed ad nauseam throughout the last two
years. The 2024 season marked a return to warm, dry summer conditions,
moderated by water reserves from the spring. The real challenge of 2024 came in
September, when rain disrupted harvest across much of Tuscany. This will be a
winemaker's vintage, where timing and skilled vineyard work will inform quality.
Most of my tastings focused on the 2022s, which I enjoyed for their richness,
and the 2023s, which impressed with their freshness. Both years were
successful, with a slight edge to 2023.&nbsp;I
tasted the wines for this report in Tuscany in fall 2025 and in our NYC offices
in early 2026.© 2026, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism. <hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/unearthing-tuscan-gems-carmignano-montecucco-and-beyond-mar-2025">Unearthing Tuscan Gems: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond</a>, Eric Guido, March 2025<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/carmignano-montecucco-and-tuscany-s-unrivaled-diversity-mar-2024">Carmignano, Montecucco and Tuscany’s Unrivaled Diversity</a>, Eric Guido, March 2024<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/touring-tuscany-carmignano-montecucco-and-beyond-feb-2023">Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond</a>, Eric Guido, February 2023 <div><div></div></div><div><div><div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/montepulciano-carmignano-and-montecucco-new-releases-dec-2021">Montepulciano, Carmignano and Montecucco: New Releases</a>, Eric Guido, December 2021</div></div></div>

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