Tail Fin
Delights: Mâconnais 2023/2024

BY NEAL
MARTIN | AUGUST 14, 2025Every
June, I make two trips to the north and south of Burgundy. Two hundred
kilometres and the Côte d’Or lie between Chablis and Mâconnais, but these
regions merit juxtaposition. Chablis’ northerly knife-edge latitude exposes its
vines to cooler temperatures and theoretically more inclemency, whereas
Mâconnais is slightly warmer. Chablis comprises rolling hills adrift in
France’s rural expanse. Mâconnais is a more dramatic landscape with tighter
contours, punctured by the Roches de Vergisson and Solutré that erupt like ochre-stained
tail fins on a fifties Cadillac. Unlike somnolent Chablis, Mâconnais has a
lively town on its doorstep. Chardonnay is the paintbrush for both regions,
albeit using different canvases, with Chablis distinguished by Kimmeridgian
soils and Mâconnais more diverse underfoot, predominantly limestone with
varying degrees of clay. Perhaps one key difference is that whilst everyone
knows what Chablis is, Mâcon’s wines are less recognised beyond Pouilly-Fuissé.
Even that is often conflated with Pouilly-Fumé, this despite recent Premier Cru
promotions.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1755103090105-roc+du+solutre_Vinous.JPG">The Roche de Solutré forms one of two “tail fins” in the Mâconnais.Mâconnais
is a treasure trove of vinous delights that deserve wider appreciation and
certainly should not be regarded as an afterthought when considering what
Burgundy brings to the table. In fact, given some of the inflated prices
elsewhere, Mâconnais deserves to be at the forefront of wine lovers’ minds. The
Growing Season Allow
me to replicate my 2023 summary from last year’s report, since that vintage is
the focus of my tasting notes. The&nbsp;2023 growing season&nbsp;commenced with a relatively mild
January, with temperatures averaging around 5.1°C. The following weeks were
changeable, alternating between spells of freshness and warmth. February was
absurdly dry, with just 2mm of rain recorded. Budding was around April 2,
similar to 2009 and 2016, a little earlier than usual. April turned out to be
colder than normal, averaging 11.1°C, though that is the highest of any region
of Burgundy. It wasn’t until the end of the month that conditions improved,
with May witnessing average temperatures of 16.4°C. Henceforth, vines seemed to
compensate for lost time and grew rapidly with a swift&nbsp;mi-floraison&nbsp;recorded
as of June 2 under slightly warmer conditions than average, 22.0°C. This
uninterrupted and even flowering foregrounded a large volume of fruit.Vineyard managers had to remain vigilant. Outbreaks of rain provided
ideal conditions for powdery and downy mildew, both constant threats. The
Mâconnais was deluged with 130 mm in June, almost twice that of the Côte d’Or
at 78 mm. Bunches closed in early July, four or five days before normal, and
the usual uptick in warmth never happened, the mercury nudging just 0.1°C
warmer. This was concurrent with the onset of dry conditions, and vines already
facing a water deficit were under tremendous stress. Outbreaks of showers
towards the end of August offered only minor relief, notwithstanding sporadic
localized hail. The
result was that some areas of the Mâconnais struggled to fully ripen their
fruit as vines closed down to survive. Most pickers went out on September 11,
although a few started two or three days earlier. Thankfully, the weather was
bright and sunny, with temperatures warmer than usual at 20.3°C and cool nights
that helped preserve acidity. That month witnessed 264 sunlight hours, far
higher than normal, so there was around 15% more sunshine over the growing
season. These clement conditions ushered most of the fruit to full maturity. Pressings
tended to be gentle because winemakers found less juice than expected, with the
final vins de presse excluded in order to retain low pH levels. With
regard to élevage, some producers shared that they opted to extend the length
of barrel maturation, partly to enhance the wines but also because there was
free space in the cellar after the shortfall in quantity. Having
recently published my <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/chablis-2023-2024-five-baskets-jul-2025">report on Chablis</a>, it should come as no surprise
that 2024 was a traumatic season. Though it was not an easy vintage by a long
chalk, Mâconnais was not quite as impacted as the Côte d’Or or Chablis. April
saw the mercury slide to -2°C, which caused frost damage in exposed spots. Hail
generally avoided the Mâconnais throughout the year, as thunderstorms tended to
break out either east or west of the region. Temperatures were below average,
but not quite as cold as elsewhere, which can make all the difference in terms
of ripening. Compare, for example, average temperature in June: 18.0°C in
Chablis but 19.3°C in Mâcon, whilst August averaged 22.9°C in Mâcon. That said,
the region was deluged throughout the year: 146 mm in March and 91 mm in May,
though again, that is far less than the 196 mm recorded in Chablis. Consequently,
there was widespread coulure and millerandage, though this could
assist concentration. The 30 mm of rain in August was markedly less than in the
87 mm in the Côte d’Or. Mâcon was also blessed with 328 sunlight hours, more
than Côte d’Or and Chablis. Of course, this led to a later growing cycle. Even
though budding on March 31 was around a week earlier than normal due to a warm
February, by the time of véraison, the growth cycle was lagging nine days
behind. Because of these minor but important disparities, sugar accumulation
was better here, comparable to the Chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. There was
a week of rain in early September, with many pickers entering vineyards around
September 12 in cooler conditions compared to recent years. Yields were not as
impacted as other regions; for example, Château de Fuissé reported 52 hl/ha.Incidentally,
whilst Chablis seemed to take the brunt of the challenging conditions in 2024,
2025 appears to be Mâconnais’ turn. A localised hailstorm barrelled across some
of the prime vineyard sites—such as Fuissé and Solutré—during budbreak, and
subsequent mildew pressure was intense. Potential shortfalls in 2025 production
may influence buying decisions of 2023s and 2024s.The
TastingsUnlike
my time in Chablis, during which I undertake tasting with the BIVB, in
Mâconnais, my days are filled with visits to wineries only. Due to mildew
pressure, it was all-hands-on-deck, and a couple of producers missed our
appointments as they were out on their tractors. Perhaps the most notable was
Domaine Barraud in Vergisson, as Julien Barraud was preoccupied treating his
vines during the spell of dry weather. I will endeavour to visit at a later
date, as I admire Barraud’s wines. Many
visitors overlook Mâconnais and flock to the Côte d’Or, but they are missing
out on the most picturesque part of Burgundy, speckled with some wonderful
bistros and one of my favourite boulangeries in the village of Leynes. Shop spaces have hollowed out the main town of Mâcon, but
there are some excellent places to eat. On this trip I discovered La Dama—a
wonderful bijou Italian restaurant with a tempting and well-priced wine list—plus
a new wine shop, Racines, stocked with a fine selection from artisan winemakers
with wines available to drink by the glass.The
Wines

























General
sentiment towards the 2023 vintage seems to have improved since I tasted a
smattering of barrel samples 12 months ago. Now that the wines are in bottle,
winemakers have warmed to them. Perhaps the 2023s might not possess the
vaulting ambition of the concentrated 2022s, a comparison that initially painted
the 2023s in a less favourable light, but their drinkability is a virtue. No,
these are not the most complex Mâconnais wines, but since bottling, they have
evolved more nerve and a soupçon more complexity. The 2023s were aided by
relatively moderate yields compared to the Côte de Beaune, and the best
terroirs in Mâconnais show their mettle with fresh, pleasingly tensile wines that
brim with nascent vigour. Even at the top of the hierarchy, the best
Pouilly-Fuissé wines tend to be geared for early consumption. However, if you do
intend to cellar them, they will drink earlier than their 2022 counterparts.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1755103117563-thibert_Vinous.JPG">From left to right, Christophe Thibert, daughter Camille, and sister Sandrine Thibert-Needham.Obviously,
like in other regions, the 2024s are going to be thin on the ground, though not
to the same degree as the worst-affected parts of the Côte d’Or and Chablis.
Volume does not preclude quality, and many winemakers seem positive about these
wines currently gestating in barrel. The handful that I tasted from the likes
of Château de Fuissé and J-A Ferret look promising, but I will get a better
handle on them next year. It will be intriguing to see whether, as Ferret’s
winemaker Clément Robinet suggested, there is disparity between Fuissé and
Vergisson, the latter purportedly more linear in style. We will see. &nbsp;In terms of the market,
Mâconnais has benefitted from the Premier Cru promotion of Pouilly-Fuissé from
the 2020 vintage. The recent promotions of Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché
only apply from the 2024 vintage onward, so it will be a few years before we
see whether they gain more recognition, which currently lags behind
Pouilly-Fuissé due to size and perhaps lack of well-known growers. That said,
it is beneficial for the entire region that there are now multiple appellations
with Premier Cru status.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1755103137193-frederic+burrier_Vinous.JPG">Frédéric Burrier relaxing whilst I tackle a wide-ranging portfolio, including his Beaujolais from “across the border.”“The market is good in Europe but difficult in the United States because of tariffs,” Frédéric Burrier told me, before the 15% tariff agreed between the United States and the E.U. on July 27, then again, maybe that will be rescinded by the time this report is published! “France is also difficult, as people are not spending so much on wine. It's not dynamic, but it's not a bad period.” Olivier Merlin had similar sentiments: not an easy period for sales, but there is at least more recognition for the region. I do not yet detect much drifting away from Côte de Beaune to Mâconnais as cash-strapped consumers are priced out of the former’s best vineyards and/or producers. There remains a bit of prejudice against Mâconnais wines, and consumers seem hidebound to their favoured appellations and unwilling to swap, say, Puligny for Pouilly-Fuissé. Even though in terms of status there is now more parity, it takes time for consumers to revise their occasionally unjustified lack of appreciation. One Burgundy expert recently opined that a Premier Cru in the Mâconnais could never achieve the same level as a top Meursault or Puligny. Whilst I might agree that the very pinnacle might be unattainable, I would argue that a top Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru can match many Puligny Premier Crus. The difference is that the Pouilly-Fuissé wines have a slightly creamier texture and rarely achieve the same degree of mineral intensity. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1755103155880-frantz+chagnoleau_Vinous.JPG">Together with wife Caroline Gon, Frantz Chagnoleau furnishes wine lovers with some of the finest Saint-Véran.Perhaps
the one appellation that remains underappreciated is Saint-Véran. That is
partly because cooperatives churn out mediocre fare that risks tarnishing the
name. For that very reason, it is unlikely that Saint-Véran’s best lieux-dits
will one day gain promotion, since it is in their interest to maintain low
prices. Nevertheless, in the right hands, Saint-Véran can be wonderful. Check
out Frantz Chagnoleau, Dominique Cornin, Domaine La Soufrandière, Domaine de la
Croix Senaillet, not forgetting, of course, the enfant terrible
himself, Jean-Marie Guffens. Perhaps Saint-Véran is destined to always be the
bridesmaid and never the bride, but its wines represent outstanding value in
today’s market.&nbsp; Final
Thoughts



It sounds a bit banal, but
I feel that Mâconnais is “chugging along nicely.” Producers here see how the
Côte d’Or has changed in recent years, for better and for worse. They
don’t yearn for the stratospheric prices now seen for either the Côte d’Or
vineyards or some of its wines, those in Mâconnais bristling at the notion of
redefining wine as a desirable luxury item. Mâconnais wine is to be consumed.
That is its raison d’être, and there is no deviating from that cause. Premier
Cru status has given the region some status “glitter,” although that has not
led to overnight fame for its elevated vineyards. But it has prompted some to
view the wines more seriously, which will yield long-term benefits. Perhaps
with quantities depleted elsewhere in 2024, it’s the perfect moment to drink
more wines from the Mâconnais. They have much to offer. There’s delight to be
found around those tail fins.© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/maconnais-2022-2023-don-t-pass-me-by-aug-2024">Mâconnais 2022/2023: Don’t Pass Me By</a>, Neal Martin, August 2024<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/moving-on-up-maconnais-2021-2022-aug-2023">Moving On Up: Mâconnais 2021 &amp; 2022</a>, Neal Martin, August 2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-inflection-point-maconnais-2020-2021-aug-2022">The Inflection Point: Mâconnais 2020 &amp; 2021</a>, Neal Martin, August 2022 <div><div></div></div><div><div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/don-t-rain-on-my-parade-maconnais-2019-2020-nov-2021">Don’t Rain on My Parade: Mâconnais 2019/2020</a>, Neal Martin, November 2021</div></div>

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