Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux,
Ten Years On

BY NEAL
MARTIN | APRIL 16, 2026

Introduction

“The 2016
Bordeaux is a benchmark vintage that may ultimately be regarded as a pivotal
turning point for the region.”

Which
château owner is hyping their wine now?

Mea
culpa. That is
the opening sentence to that year’s entry in “The Complete Bordeaux Vintage
Guide,” written by your humble scribe. Talk about having a lot to live up to. From
the time it was in diapers, the 2016 vintage was lavished with praise, so it
was only right that it should undergo rigorous re-examination at the ten-year mark.
As in previous years, I participated in two grouped tastings, a sighted tasting
organised by Bordeaux Index and a blind tasting hosted by Farr Vintners. Each
format has its own advantages and drawbacks. Whilst in most cases the notes
from each tasting corroborate each other, there were inevitable discrepancies, in
which instances I’ve included both reviews separately to enable readers to
compare and contrast. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776347556831-bordeaux+index+tasting_Vinous.jpg">I
arrived at Bordeaux Index’s 2016 tasting early. I was unable to taste all of
the wines, but I managed to work my way around the major châteaux before the
room began to fill.

Naturally,
there was a great deal of anticipation leading up to these tastings. It was
vital to remain objective and not misuse them as a means to validate one’s
initial impressions. This was a chance to observe the wines’ evolution at a
significant milestone—if that meant walking back a previous glowing review, or
vice versa, then so be it. Expectations will always be high when uncorking a
’16 Bordeaux, but that does not guarantee the wines will deliver.

First, a
reminder of the growing season…

Growing
Season

June 17. A short drive in my rental car from
Le Pin to Clinet. Five minutes, max. The sky looks like Hades on a bad day. The
rain has been unrelenting in recent days, and Pomerol’s drainage system cannot
cope. The heavens open and roads suddenly turn into rivers. Vines hold their
breath as turbid waters lap against bunches. Where’s the lifeguard? At one
point, a winemaker ahead frantically waves his arms to warn me of danger; I
reverse the car to avoid drowning, which was not on that morning’s itinerary.

Difficult as it might be to believe, this
was in 2016, a couple of days before sunny and warm conditions settled in for
the remainder of the season. Up to that point, the rain persisted through the
first six months of the year. Despite regular bud-burst, &nbsp;many winemakers feared a sequel to 2013. The
first stroke of luck came when flowering coincided with a brief window of
sunny, dry weather between June 3 and 11, so that at least a decent-sized crop
was possible. On June 20, the sun came out, though it was not until mid-July
that temperatures began rising towards 30°C. From June 20 to September 13,
there was just 25 mm of rain, with a mere 5.5 mm in Saint-Estèphe. Crucially,
there were no heat spikes and only four days in August when the mercury climbed
above 30°C. But there were 26% more sunlight hours than the historical average.
Coupled with cool nights, the diurnal temperature variation locked in acidity
and accreted anthocyanin levels, which were ultimately higher than in 2009 and
2015. It was the perfect environment to ripen berries. 

Haut-Brion began picking their whites on
September 1. A few days later, there was some consternation that the lack of
rain was inducing hydric stress, especially with respect to young vines on
free-draining soils, where leaves began to curl. However, there was more good
luck: 20 to 50 mm of rain fell on September 13 and restarted the vines’ engines
so that they could cruise towards phenolic ripeness. Eric Kohler, winemaker and
technical director at Lafite-Rothschild, explained how the dryness and stress
built gradually over the summer, from the beginning of véraison onward. “We were worried about the thick skins and
potential hardness. The rains finished the maturation process, and that was the
key. Without that rain, the wines would not be so rich and elegant,” Kohler
said. One further spell of rain on September 30 threatened localised rot. The
main picking began in October with Merlot during the first week and Cabernet
Sauvignon on October 15 or 16.

I vividly recall the infectious high
spirits of the pickers, which I witnessed firsthand. Châteaux were blessed with
healthy bunches, with just a bit of grillure
to look out for on the Right Bank. Musts were lucid in colour with average
alcohol levels, mostly between 13° and 14.5°. While regions like Champagne and
Burgundy suffered depleted yields due to frost damage earlier in the season,
volume in Bordeaux was up 7% from the previous vintage.

The Wines

Since I quoted myself at the beginning of
this article, allow me to do it again. I dug out my <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-dbs-bordeaux-2016-in-bottle-jan-2019">original
report</a> from 2019 that adumbrated how each appellation performed at the
Southwold tasting. I’ve included the original sentence in italics, followed by
how the wines showed at this year’s retrospective tastings.

“Saint Estèphe is stronger in 2016 than
2015, though do not overlook the tremendous 2014s.”

The Ten-Year-On tastings bear this out,
though I do not think anyone expected such a fabulous showing from the 2016
Ormes de Pez. This stupendous wine from the Cazes family surpassed all
expectations, combining power and finesse as Bordeaux so effortlessly does. It
was actually reinserted into another flight just to double-check. That bottle
performed even better, and I’ve published two separate notes in this report
just to reinforce that fact. Given market prices, this would be high on my
shopping list. It is not the only château that punched above its reputation;
the 2016 Phélan Ségur sported a divine, Pauillac-like finish. Both of the
aforementioned challenge the supremacy of the brilliant Montrose, whose
purple patch extends from the 2014 vintage to today. I gave the 2016 Cos
d’Estournel a perfect score just after bottling, and though it did not
achieve those heights here, its long-term potential was evident. I did not
think the Calon-Ségur was representative and will seek to revisit it later.
Overall, this was a strong showing for Saint-Estèphe.

“Pauillac is probably equal in both 2015
and 2016.”

Following the <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/bordeaux-2015-at-age-ten-jun-2025">Ten-Year-On
horizontals last year</a>, this is no longer the case. I would certainly place
the 2016s ahead of the 2015s. This was an exceptional flight, though in this
instance, I felt that the bottles poured at the sighted tasting (which were afforded
more time to open) showed better than those at the blind tasting. The 2016
Latour was spellbinding at Bordeaux Index, completely vindicating the
perfect score I awarded it a few months ago. By contrast, I was not the only
one flummoxed by the bottle at the blind tasting, which lacked the normal structure
and freshness of previous examples. The 2016 Lafite-Rothschild was
consistent between both tastings, ditto the wonderful 2016 Mouton-Rothschild.


If First Growths are too expensive in these
straitened times, consider the heavenly 2016 Lynch Bages that continued
Jean-Charles Cazes’ best performance at any Southwold or Ten-Year-On tasting.
Again, poured twice to double-check. Christian Seely and his team oversaw one
of the finest Pichon Baron wines in living memory, its nose in front of
the 2016 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande. Other notable successes
include the 2016 Batailley, arguably the best value-for-money by some
distance, and the 2016 Haut-Batailley—Cazes again, at least in
terms of élevage, since it was made during the handover period from the Xavier
Borie. Speaking of which, maybe I was expecting a little more élan from the 2016
Grand-Puy-Lacoste? However, this Pauillac can require more time to come
around, often less flattering in its flush of youth. Pontet Canet was another
that prompted mass scratching of heads, and the blind example tasted completely
different from the one served at the château. Nevertheless, the flight of Pauillac
wines performed extremely well.

“Saint-Julien seems slightly stronger in
2016 than 2015.”

Saint-Julien enjoyed a typically solid
performance. Perhaps given its strong run of form, the bar was set high and a
few properties clipped it on the way over. In other words, this was not the
cavalcade of superlative 2016s that some had hoped it would be, despite seriously
fine wines such as Léoville Las Cases, Barton and Poyferré (even though
the latter at the blind tasting was not the best example). The 2016 Ducru-Beaucaillou
came across as elegant and poised, surely readying itself for a higher score
down the line. A few participants were surprised by the pedigree of those
twins, Gloria and Saint-Pierre. Together with the perennially
underestimated Lagrange, this trio probably represents the best value in
today’s market. You can’t really go wrong apropos the Saint-Julien ‘16s.

“Margaux? I suspect that the 2015s will
marginally shade the 2016s.”

This might hold true. However, a candidate
for wine of the vintage resides here. Of course, that is Château Margaux.
I considered awarding a perfect score—easy-peasy when you see the label, a different
matter blind. The ’16 Margaux offers a killer combination of finesse and power,
with those silky tannins and precision on the finish that render it totally
seductive. The 2016 Palmer was more rambunctious, with an opulent and
velvety finish that will appeal to those who like a soupçon of hedonism, while
the fabulous Brane-Cantenac will tickle the taste buds of any
classicist, paradoxically more reserved yet luxurious. I could elope with the 2016
Rauzan-Ségla, whose value is perhaps only surpassed by the Deuxième Vin,
the Ségla—not for the first time, some mistook it for a Grand Vin. Other
notable successes include the 2016 Ferrière and Labégorce, both
relatively good values.

“Pessac-Léognan, like Pauillac, produced
a raft of 2016s equal to the previous year. The dry whites were hindered by the
dry weather and lack a bit of excitement.&nbsp;Saint-Émilion and Pomerol’s 2015s are
ahead of the 2016s by a nose.&nbsp;Fronsac performed extremely well in
2016; Lalande-de-Pomerol, curiously less so.”

There is not much I would change regarding
these statements. Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to taste the
dry whites. As for the reds, perhaps we should commence with the fabulous 2016
Smith Haut-Lafitte, given the recent loss of Co-Proprietor Daniel Cathiard.
What a brilliant wine. It seems to have conjured more mineralité on the
finish and exudes the essence of what Pessac-Léognan should be. Perhaps as
expected, the 2016 Haut-Brion showed extraordinary flair and class at
both tastings, though I noticed a little alcoholic warmth in the blind tasting.
The growing season levelled things up such that the likes of Les Carmes
Haut-Brion, Domaine de Chevalier and Haut-Bailly are only a
whisker behind and, it needs to be said, less injurious to bank balances. The 2016
La Mission Haut-Brion impressed at Bordeaux Index, while the bottle poured
blind was muddled by comparison. Round of applause for the 2016 Château de
Fieuzal and Larrivet Haut-Brion, which can turn up for sale at
reasonable prices.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776358840580-2016+Bordeaux+Cover_Vinous.png">Shimmying over to the Right Bank,
Saint-Émilion was the usual mixed bag. There was some discussion about where
the appellation sat stylistically in 2016 as it transitioned away from the
turbo-charged wines of yore. There was still some hangover from that period,
and the likes of Gracia and Péby-Faugères did not mature well in
bottle. Before I am accused of disliking garagistes (amazing how that
word was everywhere 20 years ago and is hardly mentioned nowadays), the Virginie
de Valandraud was almost as good as the Grand Vin. Certainly, the 2016
Angélus is one of that decade’s peaks, both bottles impressive sighted and
blind, though the 2016 Cheval Blanc leads the pack, displaying
dazzling complexity and grip. Wow. The 2016 Figeac might
challenge Cheval Blanc in the future, supremely well defined with a silver
thread of acidity that keeps it on its toes. I have had several bottles in
recent months, and it is a long-term runner. The 2016 Canon is
exceptionally fine with its satin veneer, perhaps just a little closed on the
finish. Staying up on the limestone plateau, it was intriguing to compare the
two Beauséjour wines, Bécot with its nose just in front of Duffau
Lagarrosse. The Bécot probably represents one of the best values in today’s
market.

Pomerol was generally better received than
Saint-Émilion. Petrus, tasted twice, is quite brilliant, though on equal
footing with the stunning (and cheaper) Vieux-Château-Certan, which is blessed
with unbelievable persistence on the finish. Lafleur is biding its time
and might seem a bit curmudgeonly compared to its more flattering neighbours,
but we all know how this needs time to blossom. Give it another half-dozen
years. I felt these had a little more complexity than the more hedonistic 2016
Le Pin, again tasted twice. Other impressive Pomerols include Trotanoy,
La Fleur-Pétrus, La Conseillante and L’Evangile. Since I have
regularly meted out criticism, it was a pleasant surprise to find the 2016
Certan de May showing well. The 2016 l’Église-Clinet seemed closed, as
it is wont to be in its youth, hence both my score and the plus sign that will
definitely come into play as it matures. Some wines raised questions. There
were two odd showings of La Violette compared to a precise Le Gay,
a rather bombastic Rouget and one errant bottle of Hosanna.
Otherwise, Pomerol hit multiple sweet spots in 2016.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776358873464-sauternes+2016+bottles_Vinous.JPG">It was a decent though not spectacular
vintage for the Sauternes, perhaps sidelined by the reds. Star of the show? Suduiraut
has been firing on all cylinders recently, and this outstanding Sauternes brims
with intensity and finesse— a sense of grandeur. Yquem is impressive,
though even after a decade, it still needs to eat up the remaining new oak. Guiraud,
Doisy-Daëne and Lafaurie-Peyraguey were also very fine, though I
could not understand what was wrong with Climens, which was disqualified from
the blind tasting. I will seek to revisit it soon.

The Market for 2016 Bordeaux

Should you go out and buy the 2016s?

According to many on the merchant side, the
campaign for the 2016s was the last primeur that seemed to generate true
excitement about the wines, leading to strong sales. Prices today are generally
on par with what they were at the time of release, which calls into question
the value of buying primeur altogether. Current stocks of 2016s are low.
They are not sitting on the shelf like more recent vintages, and in terms of
how prices subsequently performed, perhaps this was indeed the last truly
successful primeur.

Does that mean original buyers pocketed a
profit? Judging by original primeur versus current market prices, the
answer is that it depends on what you bought at the time. If you bought
Pichon-Comtesse de Lalande or Montrose, you are looking at healthy returns of
55% and 40%, respectively. Figeac and Beychevelle were also good buys.
Conversely, Pavie is trading 44% down, La Mission Haut-Brion, 37%. Of course,
this is not necessarily a reflection of quality, but a measure of the
dissonance between what châteaux and consumers judge the wine to be worth. The
wine is worth nothing until it is sold.

Final Thoughts

The 2016 vintage augured a new era for
Bordeaux in terms of style, with silkier tannins, more approachable wines,
lower alcohol and less reliance on new oak. The 2016s left you feeling giddy
with excitement from barrel, and that has never really changed. Most live up to
expectations, although they do require decanting, and a majority at the top of
the pyramid are only in their first chapter. Personally, I am sitting on my
2016s for another five to ten years—there are other vintages to be drunk
sooner, perhaps even the 2017 or 2021s. The 2016s are those that you might
reserve for special occasions.

I still view 2016 as a turning point for
Bordeaux. It is a vintage in which winemakers’ and wine-lovers’ dreams came
true. What producers could not have known at the time of release was the
succession of hot growing seasons that would follow, pushing the wines towards
a more opulent style despite attempts to contain sugar levels. It was also
before the wheels fell off en primeur thanks to mispriced releases.
Listen carefully before bedtime in Bordeaux and I am sure you will hear prayers
that the 2025s will see a repeat of a campaign similar to the 2016s. Whatever
transpires as the 2025s come into view, 2016 is a permanent reminder of the
peaks that wine can achieve.&nbsp;© 2026, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/the-dbs-bordeaux-2016-in-bottle-jan-2019">The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle</a>, Neal Martin, 2019<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/bordeaux-2015-at-age-ten-jun-2025">Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten</a>, Neal Martin, June 2025<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/bordeaux-2023-in-bottle-coming-around-again-feb-2026">Bordeaux 2023 in Bottle: Coming Around Again</a>, Neal Martin, February 2026<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/intellect-senses-bordeaux-with-time-mar-2025">Intellect &amp; Senses: Bordeaux With Time</a>, Neal Martin, March 2025<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/test-of-endurance-bordeaux-2014-ten-years-on-mar-2024">Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On</a>, Neal Martin, March 2024<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/a-place-beyond-praise-bordeaux-2022-feb-2025"></a>

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