Sonoma and Beyond: New Releases

By Antonio Galloni

Once again I was struck by the sheer quality and diversity of the wines I tasted in Sonoma County. At three times the size of Napa Valley, Sonoma County is home to a dizzying array of terroirs, microclimates and grape varieties. Across the ‘border’ in Mendocino County, Anderson Valley continues to impress with an ever-increasing number of noteworthy wines. Against that backdrop, today’s generation of young, emerging producers are taking risks and making compelling wines in all styles. In short, there can be little doubt this is a fascinating moment in the evolution of California’s rich viticultural and oenological history.

Vintage 2011

Vintage 2011 will go down as one of the coldest – if not the coldest – vintage in recent memory. Cold and rainy weather during the summer adversely affected flowering and significantly reduced potential yields. The poor conditions lasted throughout the summer, leading to very late harvests and ripeness at lower sugar levels than winemakers are used to seeing. Botrytis, which was widespread in Napa Valley, was minimal in Sonoma and only really seen in a few Chardonnay sites. The vintage was especially challenging in places that are already marginal, such as the ‘true’ Sonoma Coast. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir ripen earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, so most of the fruit was harvested before the late season rains that were so problematic in Napa Valley.

The 2011 Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs will appeal most to readers who like tense, mineral-driven wines. At their best, the 2011s are thrilling, exciting wines with great energy and tension. Syrah did not fare quite as well, as the wines generally lack mid-palate pliancy and overall structure, although there are some exceptions Much the same can be said about the Zinfandels. The average quality of 2011 is lower than 2012, but there are higher highs and also lower lows, so selection is critical.