Paso Robles and Beyond: Excellence in 2011

By Antonio Galloni

Paso Robles is buzzing with energy. I am not sure what it is exactly, but an incredible vibe runs through this town of just 30,000 residents. Driven by an extraordinary level of ambition, Paso’s top producers and their continued search for a clearly defined identity within the wine world combine to make Paso Robles an incredibly dynamic region. Of all the places I visit each and every year, Paso Robles remains without question one of the most exciting.

To be sure, things are much more in flux in Paso Robles than they are in any other major AVA in California. That is obvious. Winemakers are trying to understand what Paso wines are and what they can or should be. This year, quite a few winemakers were intent on telling me they are consciously trying to make more ‘finessed’ ,‘elegant’ wines than Paso has previously been known for. At the same time, Paso is struggling to establish an identity free of its long-standing association with France’s Rhône Valley. For example, Tablas Creek has dropped all references to partner winery Château de Beaucastel on their labels in a move to forge a more independent identity the Tablas Creek wines so clearly merit. I see that decision as a move in the right direction.

Efforts to carve Paso Robles into more than the single AVA it is today continue, but with no final decisions. I have seen and heard proposals for anything from two smaller AVAs to as many as a dozen. It will be interesting to see where this conversation goes in the coming years. My sense is that two AVAs is probably too few, but much more than that will simply be too confusing.

On a side note, Paso Robles has one of the most vibrant restaurant scenes in the Central Coast. Visitors will find any number of great places to eat right off the main square in the center of town. Artisan and Thomas Hill Organics are two of my personal favorites, but there are many more fabulous places to explore. I always leave Paso Robles wishing I had a few extra days!