Paso Robles 2021-2023: Far From Typical

BY ERIC GUIDO | JULY 25, 2024

During my June 2024 visit to Paso Robles, most winemakers were excited about what they had maturing in barrel. They had left behind the 2020 vintage and the heavy rainfalls that washed out roads and saturated the vineyards in 2023 and were looking forward to future vintages.

Villa Creek's regeneratively farmed vineyards.

It’s interesting to consider how climate change affects different parts of the world. We can’t generalize that it is simply getting warmer. Any winemaker or grower will tell you that dramatic weather events are the real effect of climate change. When it rains, it’s torrential. When it’s dry, it's a severe drought. When it’s cool, it’s unseasonably cool for extended periods. Wine-producing regions worldwide are changing their way of thinking about the varieties planted in the vineyards, the elevations and expositions of the vines and the farming techniques. During my time in Paso Robles this year, many conversations revolved around climate. In most cases, producers were cautiously optimistic. The reason for this optimism is the series of vintages the region has experienced over the past four years, with 2022 being the only outlier. The 2021, 2023 and, quite possibly, 2024 vintages (assuming things stay the current course) are all years where Paso witnessed cooler-than-average temperatures and, in the case of 2023 and 2024, higher-than-average rainfall. This could result in a change in winemaking practices in the area and, ultimately, how consumers perceive the wines. Alcohol levels are slightly decreasing. I believe this will be more evident in the 2023s during next year's tastings. There are several theories as to why this may be happening. One of the most logical involves the general warming of areas toward the east, which creates a vacuum as hot air rises and increases the cooling currents that sweep in from the Templeton Gap. 

To paint the picture for readers who are just joining the conversation, Paso Robles is located along US Highway 101, halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, with the Santa Lucia Mountains defining its western border and the Cholame Hills to the east. When driving up North 5 from Los Angeles, as the highway turns east, you’re crossing a desert. The only green around this route comes from well-irrigated plantations and nothing else. However, to the west, cool air from the Pacific Ocean is pulled across the Santa Lucia Mountains through the Templeton Gap due to warm air rising in Paso Robles. In this section, the forests are lush, and the average rainfall is high.

Inventive bottle storage in the Saxum winery.