New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2011)

by Antonio Galloni

This is the fourth year I have reviewed Champagne. I never cease to be amazed by the large number of compelling wines that emerge from the region. The sheer diversity of terroirs, producer styles and vintages is a lifetime’s work and guarantees there is always something to learn. At the same time, though, of all the regions I cover, Champagne leads the way in the sheer number of totally innocuous wines with little in the way of real personality. I tasted several hundred wines that are best described as boring and with no character. The upside, of course, is that the potential for quality to improve is virtually without limit. It is my sincere hope that underachieving estates will take the necessary steps to reach the next level.

This year we are publishing Champagne reviews in early December rather than in late December, which I hope readers will find of greater value than our previous schedule. Yes, the holidays are approaching, but at the same time, it would be a shame if readers limited their consumption of these wines just to holidays and special occasions. As I have said before, Champagne can be so much more than purely an aperitif or celebratory wine, if only asked.