This is the fourth year I have reviewed Champagne. I never cease to be amazed by the large number of compelling wines that emerge from the region. The sheer diversity of terroirs, producer styles and vintages is a lifetime’s work and guarantees there is always something to learn. At the same time, though, of all the regions I cover, Champagne leads the way in the sheer number of totally innocuous wines with little in the way of real personality.