Making
The Case for Campania

BY ERIC GUIDO |
SEPTEMBER 16, 2025Excuse me while I get up on my soapbox. I have something
important to say. Throughout my coverage of Italy, if I were to name one region
that does not receive anywhere near the respect it deserves, it would be
Campania. This is the most pressing theme on my mind as I begin to pen this report.
Why? Because Vinous readers come here to discover world-class wines that
represent the highest standards in quality, transparency of terroir, long-term
aging potential and sheer excitement. Campania excels at all of these across a
diverse selection of both red and white varieties. It delivers something for
every level of collector and provides fantastic value compared to Barolo,
Burgundy, Brunello di Montalcino and Bordeaux. And yet, discussions rarely
center on which new Aglianico or Taurasi collectors are chasing, or which
mature vintage excites them most. If you're a lover of Old-World wine that can
age for decades, Campania should not only be on your radar, it should be a
cornerstone of your cellar.That said, I often find myself frustrated by Campania—both
the producers and the consortium. For one thing, a language barrier that
is not present in most of Italy creates a serious issue for tourism and general
communication in Campania. Winemakers are often siloed, refusing to share
information, taste each other's wines, or travel to learn new skills. Many
still fall back on an outdated idea of tradition that runs counter to the
trends in most other serious winegrowing areas. In the 1990s, Campania’s top
producers pushed for maximum ripeness and significantly increased the use of
new oak in an effort to tame Aglianico’s aggressive tannins, understanding that
consumers were generally unwilling to wait for the wines to mature. However,
this treatment often yielded unbalanced wines that lacked varietal typicity.
These practices hindered the region for nearly three decades, but many
individual success stories emerged during that time. Wineries like Montevetrano
and Galardi gained international acclaim, but their success did little to
elevate&nbsp;Campania’s profile as a whole, largely because the region lacked
the coordinated promotional campaigns that boosted visibility for other Italian
appellations at the time.The 1980 earthquake that decimated much of the region also severely
impeded Campania's growth. Rebuilding began, but many inhabitants ultimately
decided to leave, creating a situation where many winemakers and vineyard
owners found themselves without an heir to take over their operations as they
aged out. This has set Campania back significantly while other regions have
pushed forward. When I visit Campania, the visible
scars of the earthquake, the dilapidated ruins and the uncompleted homes all
serve as somber reminders of the difficult decisions faced by a generation that
ultimately prioritized a new path forward over reconstruction.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758032763514-Over+160-year-old%2C+ungrafted+Aglianico+vines+at+the+historic+Starseto+vineyard%2C+in+the+commune+of+Paternopoli%2C+using+a+rare%2C+pre-phylloxera+training+system_Vinous.jpg">Ungrafted 160-year-old Aglianico vines at the historic
Starseto vineyard in the commune of Paternopoli, using a rare, pre-phylloxera
training system. However, an evolution has been slowly taking place beneath
the surface, unfurling over decades as a small number of winemakers, dedicated
businesspeople and scholars felt a responsibility to their region and its
authentic traditions. This included Piero Mastroberardino, who took over
management of the Mastroberardino winery in 1997, staying the course to create
wines in the style of his father, Antonio. Interestingly, Mastroberardino, one of the region's most historic wineries, remains unaffiliated with the Consorzio Tutela dei Vini Irpinia. Piero Mastroberardino noted that he had been voted out years ago due to a split within the management of the Consorzio, and an alliance of larger bottlers. Luigi Moio,
Professor of Oenology at the University of Naples Federico II, consulted across
the region to raise the bar in vineyards and wineries through the 1990s. His
work to reintroduce nearly forgotten varieties and understand the intricacies
of Aglianico, Fiano, Greco and Falanghina paved the way for Campania’s quality
winemaking today. In 2001, Moio took things to the next level, starting his own
winery, Quintodecimo. There, Moio introduced a style focused on terroir, with a
fixation on the utmost quality. In the southern region of Cilento, Giuseppe
Pagano, a highly successful hotelier, reinvested in the area of his childhood,
through both food and wine, establishing San Salvatore 19.88. Pagano started
with herds of buffalo to create artisanal cheeses, then began making wine in
2006, showcasing the area's ability to produce Aglianico that could rival the
best examples from the northern parts of Campania. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758032785107-Owner+and+winemaker+of+Joaquin%2C+Raffaele+Pagano%2C+seeks+single-vineyard+interpretations%2C+using+old+vines+and+extended+aging+in+the+winery%E2%80%99s+cellars_Vinous.jpg">Raffaele Pagano, owner and winemaker at Joaquin, pursues
single-vineyard wines sourced from old vines and aged for extended periods. These are just a few examples, but many others held on
while Campania suffered an identity crisis, eventually receiving the credit
they deserve. Contrade di Taurasi - Cantine Lonardo, Guastaferro, Joaquin,
Perillo, I Pentri and Luigi Tecce are all authentic, traditionalist producers
focused on a sense of place and exalting the magic of old vines. Producers like
Salvatore Molettieri, Azienda Agricola Tinessa, Luigi Maffini, Mazzella and
Stefania Barbot represent a more contemporary style, treading a fine line
between innovation and experimentation while still crafting wines that stand
the test of time. I would be remiss not to mention Feudi di San Gregorio,
which, despite their large production, maintains an incredibly high level of
quality while also exploring individual terroirs through their Feudi Studi
project. This critical mass of producers is the very reason I remain wholly
excited about the state of Campania’s wine scene today.&nbsp;&nbsp;The Ups and Downs of Tasting Through CampaniaTasting through Campanian wines never gets boring. For one
thing, while most wine-producing areas specialize in just two or three
varieties, Campania works with five major varieties: the dark, tannic Aglianico
and spicy, wild Piedirosso for the reds, along with the ageworthy yet fruit-forward
Fiano and Greco, and the fun, playful, mineral-packed Falanghina for the
whites. Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia, two ancient red varieties that nearly
went extinct but have been brought back and celebrated by wineries like Alois
and Terre del Principe, are also on the rise. Both are savory, structured and
incredibly complex. As for the more off-the-beaten-path whites, we find the
textured and aromatic Coda di Volpe, Caprettone (a key component of Lacryma
Christi del Vesuvio Bianco), Pallagrello Bianco and the newly renamed Grecomusc,
now known as Rovello Bianco. Campania’s diverse terroir adds another layer of complexity
to the equation. The fertile south, where mountains stand just a few kilometers
from the sea, gives rise to rich, intensely fruited wines. This is a stark
contrast to the acid- and mineral-driven reds and whites from the higher
elevations of Irpinia in the central part of the region, while the hilly
terrain of Taburno is something of a happy middle ground between the two. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758032805360-The+Mirabella+Eclano+Vineyard+of+Quintodecimo%2C+hosting+Aglianico+and+Falanghina+vines_Vinous.JPG">Quintodecimo’s Mirabella Eclano vineyard plays host to
Aglianico and Falanghina. In each year’s tasting, there are no fewer than five or six
vintages to consider. For this report, we have the newly released fresh whites
(mostly 2023s), the longer-aged whites and fresh reds (2022 or 2021), and
finally the various vintages of prestige-level Aglianico and Taurasi (2019 and
2020). Technically, a producer can release Taurasi after three years of aging,
but nearly all choose to hold their wines in barrel or bottle much longer. This
is both a benefit and a detriment for the region. While it’s a positive that collectors
can source mature bottles, these release cycles mean the market doesn't respond
to the excitement over good or great vintages because the hype has faded by the
time the wines are finally released. For example, even though I reported in <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/breaking-the-mold-campania-s-push-to-reinvent-itself-may-2024">May 2024</a> that
2019 is a great Taurasi vintage, collectors are only now (16 months later) able
to digest my reviews on 2019s from producers like Luigi Tecce, Cantine Lonardo,
and others.With that in mind, I decided to include a small snapshot of
vintages and how they are progressing. I've also included a more detailed look
at the 2023 vintage, the current release year for most white wines. Readers
should note that Campania has seen its fair share of difficult seasons over the
last four years, but from the standpoint of Taurasi, we are only just beginning
to see 2020s entering the market. &nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758032820985-Bottle+and+barrel+aging+at+the+Galardi+cellars+on+the+slopes+of+Mount+Roccamonfina_Vinous.jpg">Bottle and barrel aging at the Galardi cellars on the
slopes of Mount Roccamonfina. Recent Vintages2016: I consider 2016 to be one of the best vintages in
Campania over the last 20 years, and recent tastings continue to affirm that
belief. The 2016s are cool-toned and classic, with well-formed tannins and
great aging potential. A collector with a stockpile of 2016 Taurasi will be
smiling from ear to ear in another five to ten years.2017: This hot, drought-ridden season produced large-scale,
powerful wines that often lack complexity. The best producers made some
excellent wines, but these are the exception, not the rule. Two thousand
seventeen is a vintage where producers who focused on purity above power were
more successful.2018: The 2018s can surprise. This was a cold and wet year
with high disease pressure, which resulted in many thin, diluted wines.
However, the best 2018s possess a sultry beauty. In many cases, the darkest, most
inward wines from a typical year took on lifted and gentle personas in 2018.
That said, there is a vast disparity in quality, as some winemakers achieved
greatness while others completely missed the mark.2019: The 2019 vintage is a modern-day classic. The growing
season was warm yet balanced, yielding fruit-focused wines with silky tannins
and excellent potential for a drinking window of 20 years or more. The 2019s
are hard not to like and possess a certain upfront appeal that will likely mean
too many of them are consumed before they reach their ideal maturity.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758032840576-Fiano+for+the+Feudi+Studi+program+in+the+Arianiello+Vineyard+of+Feudi+di+San+Gregorio_Vinous.jpg">Fiano for the Feudi Studi program in Feudi di San
Gregorio’s Arianiello vineyard. 2020: The 2020 vintage was a rollercoaster year that seemed
too warm and too cold at all the wrong times. A warm winter led to a chilly
spring, followed by a searingly hot and arid summer. Autumn didn’t bring
relief, turning cold and wet. The wines are larger than life and very rounded
in feel. While Aglianico’s tannins help to add grip, the wines often lack
balance. Even top producers struggled in 2020.2021: The 2021s will always show a warm-vintage character,
yet they strike a better balance than the 2020s. The best wines show depth and
concentration, with a core of acidity to keep them in check. A cool and wet
spring gave way to a hot and dry summer, but autumn brought cooler temperatures
and precipitation. This allowed later-ripening varieties such as Fiano and
Aglianico to achieve full phenolic ripeness. I’ve also enjoyed many Campi
Taurasini (an earlier-released category) from 2021.2022: This was an excessively dry vintage, with whites
often showing pronounced ripeness and creamy textures. The region found some
relief through the fall, yet harvests were pushed forward by a week or more. I’ve
yet to taste enough 2022 Aglianicos to have a complete view of the year.2023: As if Campania hadn’t suffered enough from the
drought-stricken 2022 vintage, Mother Nature delivered a new set of challenges
in 2023, drenching the region with non-stop rain and cloudy skies through the
spring and early summer. These conditions sparked a severe outbreak of downy
mildew, which required constant vigilance and made vineyard access difficult
for tractors. Organic producers were hit particularly hard, as their copper and
sulfur treatments were repeatedly washed away. After the wet start, June and
August brought hot, arid conditions that briefly halted maturation. While
improved weather in September and October allowed for an extended harvest, the
risk of botrytis remained a constant concern, demanding strict selection and
meticulous vineyard management. With a projected 35-50% reduction in quantity
across the region, quality in 2023 depends upon the producer. As a result, readers
should base buying decisions more on a winery's reputation than on vintage
generalizations. I expect the quality of earlier-ripening varieties like Greco
and Falanghina to be more affected than that of later-ripening varieties like
Fiano and Aglianico.

























































I
tasted the wines for this article in our New York City offices and during video
meetings with producers throughout the spring of 2025.© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/breaking-the-mold-campania-s-push-to-reinvent-itself-may-2024">Breaking the Mold: Campania’s Push to Reinvent Itself</a>, Eric Guido, May 2024<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/campania-change-is-imminent-or-is-it-jun-2023">Campania: Change Is Imminent…Or Is It?</a>, Eric Guido, June 2023 <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/wines-from-italy-s-volcanic-arc-campania-jan-2022">Wines from Italy’s Volcanic Arc: Campania</a>, Eric Guido, January 2022 <div><div></div></div><div><div><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/campania-forgotten-realms-may-2020">Campania: Forgotten Realms</a>, Eric Guido, May 2020</div></div>

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