Madeira: Fortified for All Occasions

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 08, 2019

Earlier this year I published my first article on Madeira, which focused on ancient bottles that together had accumulated over six millennia of demijohn/bottle age. As I stated back then, these have become scarce and prohibitively expensive, and so I promised a more down-to-earth report on recent releases that are more rationally priced and available. I have done my best. Some of the prices here run into four figures – apologies for that – but you will also find some that retail for under a pair of ten-dollar bills.

A majority of these tasting notes come from the annual Big Fortified Tasting, held in London at the end of April. This event embraces all types of fortified wine, though with this report in mind, I put my palate on a tight leash and led him only to the Madeira producers. These notes were subsequently augmented with samples from Miles Madeira that were sent to my address by their US importer. I should add that the job is not finished. At a future date, I will add releases from Broadbent and Henriques & Henriques and further releases from Barbeito, not to mention the Historic Series via importer Rare Wine Company. Rather than waiting, I chose to publish these 50-odd tasting notes and aim for rolling coverage to keep the Madeira torch aflame.

A gallimaufry of Madeira from Pereira d’Oliveira at the Big Fortified Tasting in London.

Traditional Grape Varieties

In my previous article, I recounted the history of Madeira, so perhaps in this second piece it is worth reminding ourselves of the grape varieties synonymous with styles: Sercial (dry), Verdelho (medium-dry), Bual (medium-sweet) and Malvasia/Malmsey (sweet). It should be noted that prior to World War II, it was not customary for American or Scandinavian markets to use varietal names; when they were employed, they often denoted the style of Madeira rather than the actual variety.

Sercial – In mainland Portugal, this variety is known as Esgano Cão, or “dog strangler,” thanks to its sharpness and often mouth-puckering acidity. In most vintages it does not exceed 11 degrees in alcohol. There is only around 16 hectares planted on the island because this is a notoriously fickle variety to cultivate, although it thrives around locales such as Seixal and Jardim da Serra. Do not let “dog strangler” put you off; Sercial is an outstanding variety that works wonders with Madeira. It is usually paler in color than other noble varieties. If you are accustomed to sweet wines, its taste can be initially jarring; however, in time you fall in love with its vitality and complexity. It can be enjoyed young, but with maturity it manifests delicious soy, pine and resinous aromas. Madeira is too often served at the end of the meal. Like Verdelho, Sercial works much better as a welcoming aperitif. Don’t take my word for it – try it yourself.