Lazio:
The Sleeping Giant of Central Italy

BY ERIC GUIDO | JUNE
11, 2026In the six years I have covered Italy at Vinous, only one of
my articles has touched upon Lazio, and even then, it shared the spotlight with
Umbria. The Lazio wines I have tasted over the years have been inconsistent. A
great wine from Lazio was once the exception, not the rule. I once asked a
winemaker why there weren’t more great wines coming out of the region, to which
they replied, “Many producers don’t think beyond our region’s borders.”Each year, as I drove through Lazio’s gorgeous
surroundings—thick, lush forests over undulating hillsides with castles,
historic towns and vineyards in the distance—I wondered why this beautiful
region with fascinating indigenous varieties and volcanic terroirs wasn’t more
prominently on my radar. There had to be great wines to uncover. This year, I
was determined to make the effort. Despite miserable weather, a dog bite that
left me with an infection and far too little time to take in any local flavor,
I departed Lazio thoroughly impressed.&nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1781190904383-A+stunning+mix+of+Cesanese+across+its+multiple+appellations_Vinous.jpg">A stunning mix of Cesaneses from across multiple
appellations.A Tale as Old as TimeWhy are wines from Lazio not more prominent on the world
stage? Sadly, like many regions in Italy, Lazio fell victim to the same
pitfalls of overproduction and commercialization that most of the country did
throughout the twentieth century. The history of winemaking in Lazio goes back
over 3,000 years, predating the Romans. Even as the Empire fell and Catholicism
spread across Italy, wine production remained Lazio’s primary focus. The wines
filled the restaurants of Rome and the cellars of the Vatican. However,
following the devastating effects of phylloxera and the two World Wars, the aim
of local wine production shifted to marketing to local tourists.That’s not to say that Lazio didn’t have visionaries. In
the 1940s, the legendary Prince Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi planted Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Sémillon just within the borders of Rome. He even
introduced organic principles throughout the 1960s and 1970s. Though Ludovisi
tore out nearly all his vineyards in the mid-1990s, four rows of old-vine
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and three rows of Sémillon still exist. That
fruit now goes into the Tenuta Principe Alberico wines, overseen by Alessia
Antinori. It was Cesanese, though, that would prove the catalyst for the surge
in quality across the region, as a handful of small producers in the late 1990s
began to see what their native grape could actually do.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1781190923089-The+original+old-vine+parcel+planted+by+Prince+Alberico+Boncompagni+Ludovisi+and+now+tended+to+by+Alessia+Antinori_Vinous.jpg">The
original old-vine parcel that Prince Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi planted, now
tended by Alessia Antinori.Terroir And VarietiesLazio has three distinct terroirs. Lazio’s northwest
borders Tuscany and shares many of its features, with gentle rolling hills and
a Mediterranean landscape. This area mainly focuses on the Aleatico variety for
red wines, and Trebbiano and Malvasia for whites. Though the northwest is not
usually considered a hot spot for quality wine, a small number of boutique
wineries are pushing the bar higher. For example, Andrea Occhipinti takes
Aleatico beyond its usual lively, floral personality and imparts depth and
structural complexity. Additionally, San Giovenale, producer of the Habemus
label, crafts internationally styled reds from Rhône varieties and Cabernet
Franc.Further east, where Lazio borders Umbria, the Orvieto DOC
spills into the region. Both sides of the border share the well-draining
volcanic tuff (tufo) soils rich in calcium and potassium, created by the
ancient Mount Vulsini volcano. Grechetto excels, but you’ll find the best
Orvieto in the Classico region on the Umbrian side of the border.Finally, Lazio’s coastal areas are quite flat (whereas the
bulk of the region is hilly) with only gentle changes in elevation above sea
level. The longstanding reference point here is Casale del Giglio, another
foundational Lazio estate. Beginning in 1985, founder Dino Santarelli took a
scientific approach to planting the vineyards, experimenting with different
varieties to determine which performed best in the area. Today, under the
management of Antonio Santarelli, Casale del Giglio stands as a benchmark for
terroir-focused producers in Lazio. While a host of international varieties
excel in these sandy soils, Bellone is the most important indigenous variety.
Easily one of Italy's most underrated white grapes, Bellone’s high acidity and
structure make for excellent dry, sparkling and sweet wines. The variety yields
wines with a stern core of minerality and intense citrus/herbal tones.
Following my recent trip, I find myself tempted to carve out a section of my
cellar for Bellone.&nbsp; &nbsp;<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1781190991371-The+coastal-influenced+vineyards+of+Casale+del+Giglio_Vinous.jpg">Casale del
Giglio’s coastal-influenced vineyards.The big draw of Lazio’s terroir is its volcanic hills.
Lazio is on the eastern border of the Apennine Mountains, and the foothills
host many of Lazio’s most important DOCs and DOCGs, such as the Frascati
Superiore DOCG in the Castelli Romani hills, southeast of Rome. Malvasia del
Lazio (Puntinata) is the base for Frascati Superiore. Blending regulations
permit the inclusion of up to 30% Trebbiano Toscano, Bombino Bianco, Greco or
Bellone, but most quality-minded producers focus on a blend of Malvasia del Lazio,
Bombino Bianco and Greco. The best Frascati Superiores are aromatic and classy,
more mineral and structured than Orvieto. These wines age quite well. The
biggest standouts from my recent trip include the Frascati Superiores from
Merumalia, Villa Simone and Gabriele Magno.Finally, there’s the red variety Cesanese, the regional
darling, with its two DOCs and one DOCG. Cesanese has generated more global
interest in Lazio than any other variety. Three main clones of Cesanese yield
completely different results: Cesanese d’Affile gives rise to the highly
aromatic, complex, structured, terroir-transparent wines that are propelling
Lazio forward on the world stage. Cesanese Comune makes a rounder, more
approachable, food-friendly wine, while Cesanese Nostrano is the rarest of the
three, planted mainly in the northeast and known for yielding bright,
approachable wines. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1781191009594-Old+vine+Cesanese+d%E2%80%99Affile+in+the+Cirsium+vineyard+of+Damiano+Ciolli_Vinous.jpg">Old-vine
Cesanese d’Affile in Damiano Ciolli’s Cirsium vineyard.Due to similar naming, there is often confusion over
Cesanese clones versus appellations. The three Cesanese-growing zones form a
cluster in central Lazio. The largest of the three zones, the Cesanese del
Piglio DOCG has dark red, iron-rich, volcanic clay soils at elevations between
300 and 600 meters. Look to producers like Maria Ernesta Berucci, Abbia Nòva
and Casale della Ioria for some excellent varietal Cesanese d’Affiles from the
Cesanese del Piglio DOCG. The Cesanese di Affile DOC (not to be confused with the
Cesanese d’Affile clone), is a smaller mountainous area in the northeast of the
cluster. This area contains more calcareous clay and limestone, and incredibly
steep vineyards. I found the wines from Raimondo to be the most exciting of the
offerings from Cesanese di Affile.Lastly, the Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC contains both
lower-lying plains and elevations of up to 450 meters. Though this DOC is known
as the primary source for the less prestigious Cesanese Comune clone, the
Cesanese d’Affile clone dominates at higher elevations. There are several
excellent producers in Cesanese di Olevano Romano, namely Marco Antonelli and
the esteemed Damiano Ciolli. I do not find an overwhelming difference in
terroir quality between Cesanese del Piglio and the two DOCs. However, quality
varies by producer. Consistency remains a problem for Lazio.Vintages in the Market: 2022, 2023 and 2024Vintages in Lazio are often comparable to those in southern
Tuscany. However, given that its most important growing areas are concentrated
closer to the Apennine Mountains, it’s important to evaluate Lazio vintages on
their own terms.There’s a lot of pleasure to be found in the 2022s; the
wines are concentrated, ripe and nicely structured. This was one of the hottest
and driest growing seasons on record, halting development throughout the summer
months. However, late-summer rains restored balance by extending the harvest
and allowing berries to achieve phenolic ripeness.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1781191066394-Cesanese+d%E2%80%99Affile+in+Lazio%27s+Cesanese+Di+Olevano+Romano+DOC_Vinous.jpg">The
Cesanese d’Affile clone in Lazio's Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC.The 2023 reds are pretty and lighter in feel. White
varieties performed better than reds, achieving higher mineral concentration
and acidity. Lazio suffered through the same persistent rains and overcast
conditions in the spring as most of Italy. Peronospora (downy mildew)
decimated Cesanese's thin skins. The summer months brought warm, humid
conditions that pulled moisture from the soil. Some estates lost up to 90% of
their production. Expect inconsistent quality across the region in 2023.Both red and white 2024s mix ripeness with high acidity.
This warm vintage began with significant rainfall. Luckily, breaks in the
weather and windy conditions allowed for steady vine health throughout the
spring. Those same heavy rains also replenished soil moisture reserves, which
mitigated the effects of the summer's intense heat. Late-harvest rains added
further disease pressure and, in many cases, reduced production by as much as
30%. The wines have higher acidity but lower alcohol and should drink well
relatively early.

































































I tasted the wines for this report in Lazio in March 2026.© 2026, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.<hr> You Might Also Enjoy<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/abruzzo-s-triumphant-2025-vintage-jun-2026">Abruzzo's Triumphant 2025 Vintage</a>, Eric Guido, June 2026<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/2024-vulture-defying-the-paradigm-may-2026">2024 Vulture: Defying the Paradigm</a>, Eric Guido, May 2026<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/making-the-case-for-campania-sep-2025">Making The Case for Campania</a>, Eric Guido, September 2025<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/emilia-romagna-chomping-at-the-bit-may-2025">Emilia-Romagna: Chomping at the Bit</a>, Eric Guido, May 2025<a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/umbria-peeling-back-the-layers-oct-2024">Umbria: Peeling Back the Layers</a>, Eric Guido, October 2024

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