Dosage Trials Chez SelosseOne of the things I love most about wine is
the opportunity to&nbsp;constantly learn.&nbsp;It is what keeps me
energized and focused. My tasting last week at Selosse is a perfect
example.&nbsp;I had tasted dosage trials at Selosse before, but only for one wine. This tasting covered the six Selosse lieux-dits, plus the new 2003 Vintage, each with six different level of dosage, for a total of 42 bottles. Not a bad way to spend a Monday morning…. 
 <img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1385015157013-2013-03-11+12.54.48+article.jpg"> Dosage continues to be one of the hot topics in Champagne. High or low, which
is best? Personally, I have no view. I am looking for wines that are in
balance, and that can be achieved in a multitude of ways. A bottle of
Taittinger’s 1989 Comtes de Champagne, dosed at 12-13 grams per liter, was
stunning last week. At the same time, I adore the best grower Champagnes, many
of which are made with far lower levels of dosage.&nbsp; 
 
The idea of balance is once again the central theme of this tasting, as most of
the wines show best somewhere in the middle of the six dosage levels. Not too
low, not too high.&nbsp;The six dosage levels as expressed in grams per liter
are, approximately:0.0 g/l 
0.7 g/l 
1.3 g/l 
2.0 g/l 
2.7 g/l 
3.3 g/l 
 
Each of the wines changes dramatically with the different dosage levels, but
what is amazing is that we are still very much playing within the low end of
dosage for Champagne. 
 
The Avize – Les Chantereines seems to hit its stride between 0.7 and 1.3 g/l,
which is where the flavors are most clearly defined. Beyond that, the wine is
heavy. I prefer the Cramant – Chemin des Chalons at 1.3 or 2.0 g/l. The Mesnil
– Les Carelles is fascinating because&nbsp; it is dazzling throughout the
entire range. With each different level of dosage the wine reveals different
shades of expression, but it is always striking and hauntingly beautiful. My
impression is the Carelles is going to be a fantastic Champagne! The 2003
Vintage is another wine that needs to be dialed in. It is gorgeous at all
levels until it gets to 2.7 g/l, which is where the wine becomes a bit
unfocused. 
 
Then we move to the Pinots. The Mareuil-sur-Aÿ – Sous Le Mont is up first. This
is the only lieu-dit I was not thrilled with last year, probably because that
version had no dosage. Tasting the six versions this year, it is clear the
Mareuil is dry and astringent at 0 g/l. The wine explodes, though, as dosage is
added, and at 3.3 g/l it is superb. The Aÿ – La Côte Faron, is in its sweet
spot – pardon the pun – between 1.3 and 2.0 g/l. The Ambonnay – Le Bout du
Clos, which includes 20% Chardonnay, is another wine that is solid throughout,
but that really seems to hit its stride between 1.3 and 2.7 g/l. It is shaping
up to be a stunner.





--Antonio Galloni

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