Cellar Favorite: 2008 &amp; 1982&nbsp;Bollinger&nbsp;Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 13, 2026Bollinger's Vieilles Vignes Françaises, 100% Pinot Noir, is one of Champagne's rare birds. For the last 20 years or so, FFV has been sourced from two tiny parcels in Aÿ where ungrafted vines have survived thanks to the protection afforded by surrounding walls. The first of these, Clos Chaudes-Terres, is just behind the Bollinger offices. A second parcel, Clos Saint-Jacques, is just across the road, located very humbly next to the parking lot. Together, the two parcels measure just over 0.3 hectares. Up until the 2004 harvest, a third parcel in Bouzy was also part of the blend, but without walls those vines eventually succumbed to phylloxera.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776116767028-IMG_4155.jpg">Clos Chaudes-Terres, just behind the Bollinger offices, is one of the core parcels in Vieilles Vignes Françaises. It measures just 0.15 hectares and is planted En Foule, an ancient technique in which vines are propagated by layering canes into the ground as opposed to the more conventional training systems that are widely used today.Production is just a few barrels, increasingly less, the result of decreasing yields tied to the effects of accumulated heat stress. That may start to change with the 2017 vintage, the first vintage that includes fruit from a new block in Aÿ adjacent to the new winery. At its finest, Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the most evocative, hauntingly beautiful wines in Champagne. It is often captivating in its youth, but the best vintages also age exceptionally well.I tasted these two wines during my most recent visit to Bollinger in March 2026.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1776089787957-CF_Apr132026.jpg">The 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is a
total stunner. Candied apricot, white truffles, mint, orange jam, white flowers
and pineapple flesh out in the glass. Still quite vibrant, the 2008 is just at
the early part of its first plateau of maturity. It is a decidedly exotic, wild
VVF with tons of character. I had high expectations for the 2008 on release,
all of which have been met. Candy for adults. 98/Drink: 2026-2048.

Bollinger’s 1982 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes
Françaises shows just how magical Champagne can be with age. Timeless in its
beauty, the 1982 is mature yet full of life. Hints of lemon confit, tangerine
peel, marzipan, candied ginger, coffee, white flowers and truffle grace the
palate. It builds beautifully over time, gaining complexity and dimension all
the way through to a persistent, opulent finish that is unforgettable. The 1982
has more than enough textural depth and vibrancy to drink well for another decade,
but it would be a shame to miss it at this glorious peak of expression. 98/Drink:
2026-2036.© 2026, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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