Cellar
Favorite: 1997 Domaine Raymond Trollat Saint-Joseph

BY NEAL
MARTIN | MAY 4, 2026

Since
his passing in 2023, Raymond Trollat belongs to a handful of Rhône winemakers who
have gained posthumous acclaim. During his lifetime, Trollat was revered as one
of the region’s finest and humblest winemakers, rarely traveling far from his
vineyard. His wines were niche and enjoyed by a relatively small number of oenophiles,
perhaps because he never owned a prestigious site in Côte-Rôtie or Hermitage. Nevertheless,
Robert Parker once described Trollat as “one of the legendary producers of Saint-Joseph” and “an old-fashioned vigneron” in the mould of Henri Bonneau and Jacques
Reynaud of Château Rayas. Approaching retirement 20 years ago, Trollat leased
and then sold his three hectares in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols to Domaine Gonon, with
2005 marking Trollat’s valedictory vintage. Since then, Trollat has become one
of the most sought-after names in the Rhône, with prices that reflect both
rarity and esteem.

A
friend from Hong Kong recently passed through London and we met for lunch at
Noble Rot on Lamb’s Conduit Street. He spotted a bottle of Trollat on the list.
When the sommelier advised it was the last one, unable to disguise the prospect
of sampling this legend himself, well, what else could we do?<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1777903974114-CF_May042026.jpg">The
1997 Saint-Joseph is a beautiful Syrah. Showing a little bricking on the rim,
the bouquet blossoms in the glass with strawberry and raspberry scents, light
Provençal herbs, pine needle and fireside hearth. The aromatics have a
mellowness and a warmth about them that is irresistible, verging upon
Pinot-like. (Indeed, I believe there were a few stray Pinot vines dotted here
and there!) The palate is beautifully balanced with a silver thread of acidity
embroidered from start to finish. Time has softened the tannins—Trollat’s wines
were known to be a little hard and herbaceous in their youth due to the prevalence
of whole bunch—so that now the wine just slips down the throat. Yet there
remains real weight and presence, just the gentlest of grip on the finish. Red
fruit merges with slightly earthier elements with time, a hint of roasted
chestnut and tobacco. The 1997 is a masterclass in understatement and yet one
of the most satisfying, heartwarming wines I have drunk this year. Magnificent.
97/Drink 2026-2044 © 2026, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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