Cellar Favorite:
1985 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

BY NEAL
MARTIN | MARCH 23, 2026

Sadly, I
rarely drink mature Californian wine, but like many, I have a penchant for the wines
from the 1970s and early 1980s. I was recently treated to the 1985 Philip Togni
Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, and I noticed that this particular vintage was
missing from the Vinous database. Until now. For background information on the estate, I
refer readers to <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/philip-togni-cabernet-sauvignon-estate-1983-2014-dec-2025">Antonio Galloni’s recent vertical</a>. This particular bottle was
purchased on release by a close English friend of Togni. The color reflects modest
aging, not unlike a 1985 Pichon-Lalande that was poured around an hour later,
comparatively pale for a Californian Cabernet, with a russet rim. The nose is
noticeably Médoc-like in character, with vestiges of red fruit tinged with
hickory, melted tar and Montecristo cigar, the latter becoming prominent with
aeration. The palate offers pleasing weight and presence, quite sturdy and
perhaps lacking the finesse I found in the marvellous 1997 a few months
earlier. The last four decades have eroded some of the substance of this
Cabernet Sauvignon, but it seems to relish its austerity on the mature, off-dry
finish. Based on this bottle, the 1985 should be broached in the near future,
though it also attests to the longevity of this California classic. 92/Drink
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