Cellar Favorite:
1964 Maison Léon Revol Côte-Rôtie

BY BILLY NORRIS | SEPTEMBER 29, 2025

No visit to the legendary Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa,
Florida, is complete without an unexpected gem or two pulled from the dusty
recesses of its cavernous cellar. This occasion was no different. Senior
Sommelier Brad Dixon fished out a bottle of 1964 Maison Léon Revol Côte-Rôtie,
an unknown-to-me and seemingly unknown-to-most négociant bottling from an
auspicious vintage that is rarely seen today. Presumably, this bottle was sourced
at some point during the course of Bern Laxer’s innumerable European
exploratory missions as he assembled his otherworldly accumulation of wines
throughout the mid-twentieth century. Beyond that, little is known about fruit
sources or production methods. That mystery is what makes dining and drinking
at Bern’s such an inimitable experience.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1758900461278-CF_Sept292025.JPG">What I can say is that the 1964 Côte-Rôtie
is a beautiful wine and a testament to the magical powers of the Bern’s cellar.
Poured blind, I would’ve easily guessed the 1964 was 20 years younger, if not
more. It slinks from the glass with an extraordinarily composed, cool-toned
bouquet of cracked peppercorn, white smoke, saddle leather, crushed fall leaves
and dried blueberry, surprisingly clean and clearly delineated. Seamless and
elegant, it dances across the palate with undeniable energy and verve as a
mentholated freshness lifts the long finish. The tannins are fully resolved,
leaving behind a supple wine that lilts rather than lumbers. After an hour in a
decanter, the 1964 only gradually begins to lose steam, darkening slightly and turning
more inward. Nonetheless, an impressive showing for a 61-year-old négociant
bottling. 92/Drink 2025-2030. © 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.&nbsp;

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