Alsace & Luxembourg: 2017s and Late-Released 2016s

BY IAN D'AGATA | JANUARY 31, 2019

Alsace

Alsace has always produced some of the world’s greatest white wines. The good news is that it ismaking some increasingly exciting red wines too, most of them from Pinot Noir, although recently some wineries have also planted small plots of Syrah and even St. Laurent as well. Overall, Alsace’s production is divided as follows: 70% of the wines carry the Alsace Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) label, another 20% are labeled AOC Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace’s increasingly interesting sparkler, made by secondary fermentation in the bottle in the manner of Champagne) and 5% are the AOC Alsace Grand Crus. There are 75 single vineyards or grand cru designates in Alsace, established beginning in 1975, some of which, including the Rangen and Brand, are among the most famous vineyards in the world and boast over 1,000 years of history. The Eichberg of Riquewihr was mentioned in 9th-century documents. Even better, the region grows many different high-quality wine grapes and therefore its wines offer a wide range of aromas, flavors and styles. It is not an exaggeration to say that Alsace truly has something vinous for everyone.

The Zinnkoepflé Grand Cru

Positives and Negatives of One of the World’s Truly Great Wine Areas

Alsace is arguably the single friendliest wine tourist destination in the world. For example, the Alsace wine route or route des vins (which runs from Marlenheim in the north to Thann in the south, with a small appendage toward Cleebourg in the north) is a joy to travel. It covers roughly 15,600 hectares of vines and is very well mapped out, with winery signs that are easy to see and read. The names of some of the grand crus (in large black letters on white signs) are placed on the hillsides to further help you orient yourself as you drive by. For the more sporting among us, there is a cycle route (clearly marked with signs depicting a specific logo) that runs parallel to the wine route and that cyclists can travel along safely. Marked equestrian trails allow horse-lovers to gallop among vines and hillsides.  

There are many other positives to Alsace’s wine scene. Because of a combination of better clones and massal selections, climate change and improved producer skills, the Pinot Noirs have never been better. Whereas in 2000 or so, trying an Alsatian Pinot Noir was mostly an exercise in hope, today you can order a bottle from various producers with confidence, knowing it will, most likely, prove to be quite good. Vintages are important with Pinot Noir, so beware of cold, weather-challenged years, when the oak tends to dominate and Alsace’s Pinot Noir wines often show obvious signs of less-than-optimal grape ripeness; stick with the warmer vintages. Muré and Albert Mann are the best Pinot Noir producers in Alsace, but numerous producers have kicked things up a notch quality-wise, from Hugel to Domaine Weinbach to Ostertag to newcomer Domaine Hurst. Alsace Crémants have also improved by leaps and bounds. While these sparkling wines could always be counted on for upfront fruity charm and soft, easygoing flavors, in recent years they have gained in complexity and depth. Many estates offer delightful wines that represent a very good and more affordable alternative to Champagne (usually in a rounder, fruitier style than their more famous sparkling French cousins, which cannot surprise given that Alsace is sunnier, warmer and drier): JB Adam, Barmès-Buecher, Boeckel, Charles Baur, Dirler-Cadé, Domaine Pfister and Muré all make very serious Crémants. Last but not least – and I have written this before – there are few better buys anywhere in the world of wine than Alsace Sylvaner, one of the most underrated and best-value wines of all. Made almost exclusively from very old vines, the better examples are extremely deep and complex and can come in fresh, highly vertical styles or rich and luscious ones with a little residual sweetness. Do your homework, avoid those Sylvaner wines made from very high yields that are little more than neutral plonk, and you will be in for a real (and very inexpensive) treat.