2025: The Year in Review

BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 9, 2025

Another trip around the sun, an orbit during which this writer packed in a ridiculous amount of life. No, I am not “caning it” in the rebellious, juvenile sense of that expression, not pulling all-nighters or dabbling in illicit substances, apart from the occasional natural wine. Instead, my diary is a torrent of travel, dinners and tastings. I reached my fifties by the skin of my teeth—I might as well make the most of them.

How do I keep up the pace?

Firstly, abide by the mantra, “If you love what you do, then why ration it?” Conversely, I accept my limitations, doubtlessly higher than average since I keep myself trim. Never taking health for granted. Self-imposed rules on wine consumption keep me on the straight and narrow whilst ensuring I get enough beauty sleep, not that this is preventing grey hair and wrinkles. The key is to know when to switch off and recharge, and to maintain life outside of fermented grape juice.

Life coaching session over. Here is how 2025 unfolded month by month, with memorable wines that graced my blessed palate…

Month-by-Month

January - The year kicked off with the traditional gaggle of Burgundy tastings around London in some of its most historic buildings. I confess to smug satisfaction knowing that whilst scribes enter rugby scrums around tables, my report has already hit the decks. After a weekend up in the Lake District, back to Bordeaux to finish tasting 2022s, where I come close to damaging Joséphine Duffau’s freshly minted bas-relief decorating her concrete vats as I move the “giraffe.” Her small shriek averted disaster. Hot on its heels came the annual Southwold tasting of 2021s, during which I had to take a call from Ed Sheeran in the middle of the Pauillac flight. Can’t these international pop stars choose a better time? This week also saw a dinner themed around 2002 DRCs that, for my sins, remains in the mountainous to-do pile. At least the mystery blind bottle, an ethereal 1952 Romanée-Conti was consigned to a Cellar Favourite. January is supposed to be a quiet month. It was anything but. An augury for the year ahead.

1948 La Tour Blanche

1952 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti

2005 Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin

2022 Montrose

The Southwold tasting of Bordeaux 2021s, with Bill Blatch tallying up the group scores in the background. Little did I know, it would be the last time.

February – The month kicked off in style with a 1982 Bordeaux horizontal followed by a weekend getaway to the rolling Somerset hills to check out Osip, one of my meals of the year. I celebrated my birthday with my oldest friends at The Pipe of Port in Southend-on-Sea. Sadly, it shut its doors after half a century of service just a few weeks later. Such is the precariousness of hospitality. I packed my bags for New York for the second annual Vinous Icons, which surpassed the first. The event featured another stupendous Bordeaux dinner at Legacy Records, where—splendid wines apart—it is always fun to meet Vinous subscribers who remind you there is a vast audience out there, reading words strung together in my garden office. Eating my valedictory eggs over easy before my flight home, I received a text. My friend Bill Blatch had passed away. He was a cornerstone of my vinous education. My melancholia assuaged knowing his was a life well lived.

1927 Pereira d’Oliveira Bastardo Madeira

1977 Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill

1982 Lafleur

1982 Talbot

2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Blanc

Out on the town with my colleagues in New York following Vinous Icons. Later that night, Billy Norris and I went for a cheeky nightcap. To our pleasant surprise, we chanced upon a young DJ with exemplary musical taste, although it did provoke heated debate about whether the drums on Joy Division’s “She’s Lost Control” were recorded live or sampled. FWIW, the answer is both.

March – As is customary, a week in picturesque Beaujolais. A brief rest and then a short break in Lisbon, one of my favourite European destinations. Back to Blighty for a day’s filming with influencer Tom Gilbey. That was a hoot.

1953 Siran (magnum)

1962 Mouton Rothschild

1997 Valandraud

2009 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904

2010 Domaine Duroché Latricières-Chambertin

2016 Louis-Claude Desvignes Morgon Les Impénitants –

NV Ulysse Collin Extra-Brut Blanc de Blanc Les Rosies (2013 base)

April – After a splendid Duroché Latricières vertical, it was back to Bordeaux for my 492nd en primeur and all the shenanigans. Highlights included a memorable “fives” dinner at Domaine de Chevalier and a soirée at Yquem where we raised a 1948 to toast Bill Blatch. After shouting rude words at a YouTube video entitled “Bow ties are easy!” for two hours, it was off to the Académie du Vin dinner. April finishes with a flurry of Burgundy dinners in London, including Charles Lachaux, Pierre Vincent and Comte Liger-Belair.

1915 Cheval Blanc

1924 Meyney (magnum)

1935 Lafite Blanc

1949 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande

1959 Rayne Vigneau

2012 Domaine Tempier Bandol

2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre

2021 Château Simone Palette Blanc

Evidence of my bow tie. It is already coming loose, but apparently scruffy bow ties are de rigueur.

May – I flew to Washington, D.C. to support the Heart’s Delight charity as MC for a second year running, where elusive copies of my Pomerol tome raised another fat wad of cash. This also involved watching the aforementioned YouTube video, as the event was black tie. This was followed by a Meerlust tasting back in London in the presence of national treasure, Stephen Fry and the inaugural South Africa Ten-Years-On tasting. There was an astonishing bacchanal for a friend’s 50th birthday that saw magnums of La Tâche and Petrus martyred. After a getaway with old friends in Burnham-on-Crouch, a.k.a. the Vosne-Romanée of England, it was to Burgundy itself for the 2021 whites at Burgfest. The month finished with my restaurant of the year: Plates, in London. My vegan guest told me that she would never eat that well again. That’s probably true.

1947 Petrus (magnum)

1957 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche (magnum)

1975 Dom Pérignon

1990 Hennebelle

1991 Domaine J.L. Chave Hermitage Rouge

1997 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhaus Riesling Abtsberg Auslese Nr. 57 -

2005 Domaine Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne (demi-magnum)

2001 Meerlust Estate Rubicon

2014 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault-Perrières

A gathering of my oldest friends in Essex, not far from where Pierre Duroché and Alex Moreau are now making wine.

June – The month always includes weeks in Chablis and Mâconnais, the latter curtailed to shimmy up to Nuits Saint-Georges for a Faiveley vertical celebrating their bicentenary that—unforgivably, once again—remains in my to-do pile. The month finished with a few medical tests that I passed with flying colours, a 1990 Bordeaux dinner and dancing away a Saturday afternoon with the “Essex Massive,” collectively reliving our halcyon clubbing days—though this time we are back home in time for a bath. The month ends with another 50th birthday party and a late-night discussion about the quality of Coldplay’s albums with the band’s guitarist and drummer, plus oenophile Keira Knightley. That was quite surreal.

1990 Guy de Barjac Cornas

1990 Cheval Blanc

2011 Penfolds Chardonnay Yattarna

2023 Frantz Chagnoleau Saint Véran à la Côte

July – I head to Japan in early July to eat sashimi and buy vinyl records. The jaunt to Osaka is fun despite the heat. One high point is being dressed in a traditional Edo period costume to mark my youngest daughter’s coming of age. She looked amazing in her aunt’s peach-coloured kimono. I fly back to London and catch four hours’ shuteye before flying to Austria for the most expensive Vin de France vertical ever conducted: Lafleur in magnum from 1985 to 2020. I tick another off my bucket list when I catch a train through the Alps to visit Nicolas Greinacher in Zurich. Just a modest Sunday night pizza…with Coche and two Jayers.

1983 Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese

1994 Domaine Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru

2000 Lafleur (magnum)

2023 Filipa Pato & William Wouters Bairrada Branco Nossa Calcário

2025 Aramasa No. 6 A-Type Junmai Daiginjo Sake

August – Members of the Martin family are dispersed around the world, daughters somewhere in Shanghai and Tokyo. I start losing track of who is where and when. I fly to South Africa for two weeks of intensive tasting and gawping at the landscape. Returning to Blighty, I see Coldplay at Wembley, or more accurately, I spend two hours mesmerised by the lightshow. I give the after-show a miss because Grouse Club is the following morning. This year, we travelled out to the Cotswolds for rural bacchanalia to celebrate a game bird, friendship and fine wine.

1966 Cheval Blanc

1967 Climens

1971 Domaine Armand Rousseau Mazis-Chambertin

1978 La Mission Haut-Brion

1990 Soldera - Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

2004 Dal Forno Passito Rosso Vigna Seré

2024 The Sadie Family Wines Skerpioen

2024 Van Loggerenberg Wines Syrah Graft

This is my favourite image of the year, taken on my iPhone 13 Pro: Adi Badenhorst in his office/taxidermist in Swartland. Apart from the visuals, it encapsulates the winemaker better than a thousand words.

September – Five trips in one peripatetic month. A week in Burgundy assessing around 240 reds from the 2021 vintage, Paris for a couple of nights, a fab vertical of Brane-Cantenac, a week in Bordeaux to make headway apropos the 2023s and take a ringside seat for the harvest. Then ten days in Hong Kong packed with memorable tastings and dinners. I get caught in Super Typhoon Ragasa and bunker down in a posh hotel with a friend and a 1966 Trotanoy. Amongst all this, the second edition of “The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide” is published with additional growing season reports, wines and songs.

1927 Dow’s Vintage Port

1928 Léoville Las Cases

1945 Brane-Cantenac

1955 Pape Clément

1982 Te Mata Coleraine

2001 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Richebourg

2015 Domaine Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie La

Available in all good bookshops, etc., etc…

October – The month begins in Bordeaux, then from mid-October I turn Burgundian: six weeks living in the heart of Beaune, tasting over 2000 barrel samples up and down the RN74. It’s as gruelling as it is enjoyable. The trip begins with a whirlwind surrounding “Vin et Hip-Hop” at Clos Vougeot, a sort of “Were you there?” night. It is surreal to watch Aubert de Villaine as he observes two rappers whipping up the crowd who are up for a party. I wonder if he will be on the mic next year. Alas, half a cheeseburger is smeared on my face when I say hello. Miraculously, I am in bed by midnight.

1990 Domaine A. Clape Cornas

1999 Domaine Noël Verset Cornas

2015 Sugrue South Downs Brut Cuvée The Trouble with Dreams

2022 Domaine Koji & Jae Hwa Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes

The Vin et Hip-Hop at Clos Vougeot in October was a marvellous clash of fine wine and music – the same ethos I’ve embraced my own writing since I incepted “Wine-Journal” in 2003. Bravo.

November – Burgundy continues apace. In the end, I visit well over 150 domaines. The final week centres around the Hospices auction. I am not involved, but many friends convene around Beaune for numerous lunches and dinners. Memorable bottles come thick and fast. In the middle of this, I run my third La Fournée Beaunoise, the 10k from Beaune to Pommard and back. The steep climb at the halfway point does not catch me out—I’ve been training! The Bouchard Père dinner back to 1864 is astonishing, even if a voluble French writer almost ruins it with their deafening commentary. There I was, thinking that the 1864 would be the oldest Bouchard I would taste in 2025…

1864 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Marconnets

1955 Domaine Georges Roumier Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses

1959 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche

1980 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echézeaux

1983 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Eiswein

1986 Mouton Rothschild

December – The month still has the main event to come, yet it began in startling fashion with an incredible Bouchard Père dinner, the second in a month, the 164-year-old Romanée-Saint-Vivant transcendental. Then it’s down to Bordeaux to continue tasting the 2023s.

1861 Bouchard Père et Fils Romanée-Saint-Vivant

1964 Haut-Bailly

1985 Krug Collection

2016 Ballot-Millot et Fils Meursault Charmes

NV Nakada-Park Brut Nature Vignes de Courteron

All Things Wine

Wine of the Year: 1948 La Tour Blanche

There were some strong candidates: 1861 Romanée-Saint-Vivant and 1864 Beaune Marconnets from Bouchard Père & Fils, 1955 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses from Roumier and a magnum of 1947 Petrus. Perhaps the 1952 Romanée-Conti? In the end, the wine of the year must be the 1948 La Tour Blanche donated by Bill Blatch. I am sure he was aware that he might not live to share it. Having excused himself from dinner, he insisted we crack it open. Looking back, it is a botrytised memento mori.

Affordable Wine of the Year: 2022 António Madeira Branco Vinhas Velhas

Just the sheer thrill of this wine, the tension and complexity, the electricity coiled inside. As good as any white Burgundy I had this year, but at a fraction of the price. The sommelier at Solar dos Presentos in Lisbon congratulated me on my choice. Maybe I should become a wine writer?

Tasting of the Year: South Africa: Ten Years On

Sure, there were more auspicious tastings with rarer and more expensive bottles, but this South Africa tasting marked a coming of age for the industry, when it can start to look back at prior vintages à la Bordeaux or Burgundy. Kudos to Mark Dearing and Victoria Mason for organising. Expect a second edition next year.

Best Wine Name Ever: Bonkers Zombie Robot Alien Monsters From The Future Ate My Brains (Sur Lie) – Sugrue South Downs

It’s the “Sur Lie” tacked on the end that makes me laugh. That it is a fantastic debut still wine from Dermot Sugrue makes it even better.

Worst Wine of the Year: 1974 Petrus

Practically the only vintage I have never tasted back to the late 1950s, the bottle had perfect provenance…You could smell the TCA a mile away.

Unusual Bottles

1935 Lafite Blanc

1935 Domaine de Chevalier

1942 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc

1959 Marius Collet Chablis Les Blanchots

1960 Latour

1963 Blue Nun

1963 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche

1965 McWilliams Cabernet/Shiraz Private Bin 721

1965 Yquem

1974 Clos de Tart

1976 Vosne-Romanée (Pinot Blanc made by Domaine Camuzet)

1994 Domaine Georges Roumier Bourgogne Rosé

2013 Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury Le Corton

My Likes in 2025…

Artificial Intelligence. Some of the advances in the medical field and science are remarkable.

Seeing Hong Kong on its uppers.

Getting “stuck” in the Mandarin Oriental during a super typhoon.

GreenThumb gardening services. My lawn looks miles better.

Grand Frais in France—the “Vosne-Romanée of supermarkets.”

Running around Central Park, NYC. Bagel afterwards, of course.

Chateldon water.

Seeing The The at Cliffs Pavilion and the encore of “Giant.”

Matt Johnson, a.k.a. “The The,” performing at the Cliffs Pavilion.

Finally adding Prince’s “Let’s Work” to my vinyl collection after 35 years’ fruitless searching.

ParkRun. I have just done my 169th 5K run. This year I completed them in Japan, South Africa and the U.S…Brooklyn, I have my sights set on you next February.

Statins. They help keep me alive. I find that quite handy.

Influencers. As someone astutely observed, the likes of Tom Gilbey are the conduit through which non-drinkers drink wine. The small percentage who desire more in-depth information on more serious wines will come to the likes of Vinous. Influencers will be a crucial bulwark against declining consumption.

Lili D and Gab H, without whom my major Bordeaux and Burgundy reports would not be possible.

My Dislikes in 2025…

Artificial Intelligence. Hollowing out almost every creative industry. The slop that now clogs social media. The inaccuracy of a lot of information it trawls up. The possibility of it deciding to wipe out humans in a nanosecond.

Super typhoon nixing my Figeac dinner in Hong Kong.

Electric scooters. Use your legs, you lazy tykes.

War. Can’t we just stop?

Missing out on acquiring Oasis and Radiohead tickets and then being given the opportunity to see them in Berlin, except I was in Bordeaux tasting 2023s.

Influencers. I mean, scrolling through Instagram, either it’s people feigning knowledge, pretty girls seductively uncorking DRC, or taking wine communication to the dumbest level. Companies selling followers and likes and doing good business.

Slugs

All Things Food

I always eat well, what with a trained chef as a better half and a job that obliges eating at restaurants commensurate with some of the finest wines in existence. Put aside your Michelin stars; I always appreciate the simple things. The crinkly chips with Maldon salt at Osbournes in Leigh-on-Sea, an oat milk latte at Sorrel Social or that avocado toastie at Zanta Café in Beaune.

Below is a list of my most memorable meals of 2025, though I should name-check establishments that bat the ball out of the park however many times I visit—the true test of a success when there are such strong headwinds in hospitality. La Lune in Beaune, Lorne, La Trompette, Noizé and outposts of Noble Rot, all in London. These are my go-to restaurants, my culinary support system that will hopefully be serving their delicious fare for years to come.

Best Restaurants of 2025

These are my favourite meals of the year. Who knew that a vegan restaurant would top my list, but Plates left my taste buds tingling with glee, a faultless dinner that redefined the boundaries of cuisine. Bravo to Chef Kirk Haworth, pictured below with Sommelier Alex Price.

Plates, London, UK – Dish by dish, Chef Kirk Haworth’s Michelin-starred vegan restaurant redefined what cuisine could be without meat or fish. My most memorable dinner of 2025.
Osip, Bruton, UK – Adventurous, luxurious and delicious. No wonder Merlin Lebron-Johnson’s restaurant is fast becoming the destination restaurant in West Country.
Casa Julián, Tolosa, Spain – The Txuleta blows you away, then that Basque cheesecake steals the show.
Hortensia, Tokyo, Japan – Seven-seat wonder in the heart of Nishi-Azabu. Vinous Table coming soon.
Chishuru, London, UK – West African cuisine par excellence. I prefer it to Ikoyi. So does my bank balance.
The Bull, Charlbury, UK – Apparently, The Bull was serving outstanding gastropub dishes before the arrival of the talented chef, Sally Abé.
Yakitori Ichimatsu, Osaka, Japan – Chicken on a skewer taken to its zenith.
Cubé, London, UK – Best sashimi in London that nobody knows about.
Table du Square, Beaune, France – Three words: Milk. Fed. Lamb.
Potluck Club, Cape Town, South Africa – Spicy, spicy fare in one of the Cape’s go-to restaurants.
Bistro Calsec, Bordeaux, France – For the turntable and sublime tarte tatin.
Le B, New York, USA – Decadent classic French cuisine in the heart of Greenwich Village.

Best Wine Lists

Noble Rot (London, UK)

Café Saigon (Saint-Émilion, France)

Henry’s End (Brooklyn, USA)

Maison du Colombier (Beaune, France)

Fat Butcher (Stellenbosch, South Africa)

Wine Not? (Chablis, France)

All Things Music

If rock ‘n roll was born in 1955, then it is now 70 years old, splintered into such a myriad of genres that there is no singular timeline, no dominant sound. I never lost the gene that switches off the curiosity to find new artists and sounds after adolescence. A bit like discovering an unknown winemaker, there is nothing more thrilling than a new artist bursting onto the scene, even though it is getting harder and harder to make a living from this vocation. Consequently, musicians come from increasingly privileged backgrounds, leaving the next working-class Lennon or Ozzy in the Amazon warehouse. I love Spotify, but the measly sums paid in artists’ royalties are scandalous, which is why I divert a portion of my income to buying vinyl or going to gigs.

The music scene is as fertile as ever. Who foresaw bands such as Wet Leg or The Last Dinner Party returning with sophomore albums better than their debuts, Rosalia spinning heads with magnum opus of operatic pop, or the new Tom Waits in the form of Cameron Winter and his band, Geese? Pulp returning after a quarter-century with an album equal to their 1990s heyday, CMAT becoming the breakout artist she was born to become, or however you describe multimedia artist Kilo Kis? And I know I have missed 99% of music that I would love simply because I don’t have the time. So, this is just a selection that caught my ear in 2025.

Best Albums of 2025

LUX – Rosalía

Hailed as a “masterpiece” by just about every person who heard it, from a frothing Andrew Lloyd Webber to your mate who is just trying to be cool, this is a suite of songs with incredible ambition that could easily have fallen flat on its face. The only black mark is her song “Sauvignon Blanc.” I mean, Rosalía, could you not have chosen an indigenous Spanish white variety like Albariño?

From the Pyre – The Last Dinner Party

In theory, TLDP should have failed to match the promise of their debut, Nothing Matters, but instead they delivered a sophomore effort far more mature and superior to its predecessor. The first two tracks are Grand Cru.

Moisturiser – Wet Leg

Like TLDP, Wet Leg’s second album is better than their first, thanks to the quality of deep cuts on the second side. They are evolving into a far more interesting band than when they emerged during the pandemic.

Euro-Country – CMAT

Hoorah. Ireland’s finest singer has hit the mainstream following a career-changing performance at Glastonbury and a third album equal to the first two.

Getting Killed – Geese

Unanimous acclaim for this album. A bit like Rosalía, ambitious in scope and a challenging/rewarding listen.

More – Pulp

Jarvis & co. come out of retirement and deliver an album that stands proudly against their classic from the 1990s. Let us hope it is not their swansong.

Passenger – Nightbus

The sort of indie music that should be listened to on a wintry night under a sodium streetlamp.

Instant Holograms on Metal Film – Stereolab

Like Pulp, Stereolab returned with an album that is within touching distance of their imperious mid-1990s period.

Devil Ultrasonic Dream – Teen Mortgage

My favourite DC punk duo delivered a superb debut album that fulfills the promise of their early singles.

West End Girl – Lily Allen

The lack of filter makes Lily Allen a musician who divides opinion. Her talents as a songwriter are underestimated because of her celebrity profile and what might impolitely be described as her “gob,” though here her invective and scabrous humour directed at ex-husband David Harbour is something to behold.

Critical Thinking – Manic Street Preachers

An overlooked gem from early in the year, a late career high point from Wales’s finest and arguably the most taken-for-granted band in the world.

Bugland – No Joy

Canadian artist Jasamine White-Gluz's brilliant mix of shoegaze and electronica.

Best Songs of 2025

“Berghain”/”Memoría” – Rosalía

A song so audacious and outrageous that only a singer at the very top of her game could pull it off. Mixing classical music with pop is nothing new. But I cannot think of anyone doing it so seamlessly. I laughed when I heard that some clubbers have begun requesting that DJs include it in their set. Even better is the album cut “Memoría.” It’s simply one of the most beautiful songs I have heard in years.

“Reprogram” – Kilo Kish

“Second Sleep” – Magdalena Bay

“Just Be Friends (Soccer Mommy Version)” – SASAMI

“Achilles” – The Divine Comedy

“CPR” – Wet Leg

“Maybe Not Tonight” – Lime Garden

“Aerial Troubles” – Stereolab

“Take a Sexy Picture of Me” – CMAT

“Dancing On Volcanoes” – Gwenno

“Easy” - Smerz

“Spike Island” – Pulp

“Horribly” – Holy Palmers’ Kiss & Melody English

“Die With a Smile” – Bruno Mars and Lady Gaga

“Cut and Rewind” – Say She She

“Little Simz” - Lion ft. Obongjaya

Film of 2025

One Battle After Another – Leonardo DiCaprio stars in director Paul Thomas Anderson’s movie about a disbanded group of terrorists pursued by Sean Penn, who steals every scene. Just give him the Oscar now.

Best TV Shows of 2025

Adolescence – A remarkable artistic feat, one that should be compulsory viewing for lads showing symptoms of toxic masculinity, or anyone studying filmmaking craft. Four episodes. Four takes. Stephan Graham deserves a knighthood for services to being brilliant in everything he touches.

Severance – Season Two finally landed, and we are back at Lumon Enterprises with our innies and outies. Episodes four and seven are breathtaking.

Dept Q. – Scandi noir comes to Scotland. Matthew Goode excels as the sardonic detective solving the case of a missing person.

The Studio – I burst out laughing watching Seth Rogan’s hilarious take on Hollywood (the one-shot episode). Funniest program by miles, especially for cineastes.

Last One Laughing – Genius concept. A dozen comedians. Stick them in a room together, the only rule: don’t laugh.

© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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