Bordeaux’s bottled 2023s enter the world during an especially volatile time. I say “enter” because over the last decade or so, the market for Bordeaux wines has changed radically. En primeur is relevant only for a few dozen wines that might appreciate significantly from the time they are first offered from barrel. That applies to fewer and fewer wines with each passing vintage. For all other properties, which means the overwhelming majority, the real market is the market for bottled, finished wines.
