2022 Burgenland and Austria’s East – A Heaven for Unsung but Compelling Reds

BY ANNE KREBIEHL MW | FEBRUARY 15, 2024

A Different Focus

Most people think of Austria’s winelands as the stunning vineyards along the Danube in Wachau and Kremstal or the tributary valleys of Kamptal and Traisental – but there are slightly less renowned regions, too, like the historic Thermenregion south of Vienna. The capital, Vienna itself, is the world’s only state capital with proper vineyards within its city limits, while the relatively new Carnuntum southwest of Vienna and beautiful Burgenland occupy the strip of land along the Hungarian border. What is interesting for the Carnuntum, Thermenregion and Burgenland regions is that red grape varieties dominate. The Thermenregion and its central town of Gumpoldskirchen once almost single-handedly accounted for Austria’s wine fame with blends of two indigenous white varieties, Rotgipfler and Zierfandler. Today, red grapes constitute 42.1% of plantings. The Thermenregion was and still is Austria’s hotspot for Pinot Noir, or Blauer Burgunder, as the variety is called here. Likewise, more than half of Carnuntum vineyards are planted to red varieties, 55.1% to be precise. In Vienna, just 15.8% are planted to reds, but in Burgenland, 56.1% of vineyards are planted to red grapes – and I am pleased to say that Blaufränkisch with 2,420 hectares pips Zweigelt to the post with its 2,303 hectares.

Sheep roaming the vineyards at Johanneshof Reinisch in Tattendorf, Thermenregion.

The Triumph of 2021

The praise and the verdict were unanimous for 2021. Christina Netzl of Weingut Christine & Franz Netzl in Göttlesbrunn, Carnuntum, said: “We have never had such high ripeness with such high acidity as in 2021.” Johannes Reinisch of Johanneshof Reinisch in Tattendorf, Thermenregion said: “In 2021, both ripeness and acidity were high. We were able to harvest relatively late – well into October – with high acidity levels.” Josef Umathum of the eponymous winery in Frauenkirchen, Burgenland, said: “2021 delivered high sugar levels, high phenolic ripeness and fresh acidity. Late August brought cooler nights, and grapes were harvested in cooler temperatures, bringing even more freshness to the wines.” Roland Velich of Weingut Moric in Grosshöflein, Burgenland, recounts the year: “It was relatively dry in spring. Flowering occurred without any problems, and the summer was rather warm, but this is not unusual here. We had good amounts of rain in late August and September. The interesting thing was that 2021 delivered exactly what I looked for: high ripeness without overripeness, without opulence.” The wines, indeed, were a pleasure to taste and will bring much joy in the future.

A defiant and amused Claus Preisinger with one of his wines.