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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present

Change comes slowly in Rioja. Many of the winemaking practices that were in place when the region was established in the third quarter of the 19th century are widely used today. Grapes are pressed traditionally and most of the best wines are aged, sometimes for many years, in oak barrels of various sizes, with a preference towards American oak. Many winemakers see oxidation during aging as an asset, not a flaw, that when done correctly, brings the unique perfume, complex flavors and supple texture that make serious Rioja among the world’s greatest wines.

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Remembering Pio Boffa


2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now

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Vino Nobile & Carmignano: Italy’s Forgotten Noble Reds

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Tuscany Odds & Ends

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Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa

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Abruzzo and Molise: More Than Meets the Eye

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Wiston Estate & The Trouble With Dreams

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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black

Chenin bottles

Interpreting Chenin Blanc

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Where the Wild Things Are: Welcome to Sardinia

Vinous Table

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Le Relais de Saulx, Beaune, France

Le Relais de Saulx served one of the best evening meals I had in Burgundy last year. I enjoyed its cozy and informal ambiance; it’s one of several recent additions to the Beaune restaurant scene that is refreshingly relaxed and unstuffy.


Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France

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Petersham Nurseries Café, UK

Goats curd tartlet

Lorne – Meal Kit Dinner

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New Year Lockdown

Vinous Favorites

2019 Donnafugata Bianco Anthìlia ($16.00) 91

2019 Donnafugata Bianco Anthìlia, 91 points

This delicious Sicilian Cataratto pulls you in close with a scented bouquet of fresh apricot, yellow flowers and lime zest. It envelops the palate with silky textures, offset by citrus-tinged orchard fruits. Hints of kiwi and papaya linger long, elegantly fading away. (EG)


Cellar Favorites

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2018 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Célébration

A few years ago, I was fortunate to attend an evening tasting of ancient vintages from Louis Jadot reserves, a cornucopia of rare bottles stretching back to the 1860s.

1980 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Vosne-Romanée Les Petits-Monts 1er Cru

2014 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Santo Spirito Cuvée delle Vigne Niche

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