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Two + Two = Trouble

The recent announcement that Cheval Blanc and Ausone would not participate in the forthcoming Saint-Émilion Classification caused shockwaves across Bordeaux and beyond. I examine both sides of the argument as the appellation comes to terms with a classification without two of its star players.

Penfolds cover

Penfolds Collection 2021

St critic emeritus test

Announcement: Stephen Tanzer Becomes Vinous Critic Emeritus

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Owen Bargreen Joins Vinous

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Western Australia: Old World–Style Reds and Whites

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Treasures of Italy’s Southern Adriatic and Ionian Coasts

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Remembering Jim Clendenen

Greek bottles

A Shard of Greek Sunshine

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Argentina: New High-Altitude, High-Precision Whites

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Atlantic Spain: It’s Always About the Weather…

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Symington: 2019 Single Quintas New Releases

Vinous Table


Cassis, Mâcon, France

Cassis is a restaurant that does nothing other than serve delicious food at reasonable prices with the minimum of fuss.

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The Silver Birch, London

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SO|LA, London, UK

High timber salmon

High Timber, London, UK

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Brat x Climpson’s Arch

Vinous Favorites

2019 Valle Reale Trebbiano d'Abruzzo ($15.00) 90

2019 Valle Reale Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, 90 points

The 2019 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo displays sweet white flowers, melon, chamomile and almond paste. It’s soft in texture, with mineral-tinged orchard fruits and pretty inner florals. This leaves a sense of umami as it tapers off to notes of dried nectarine. Very nice and an excellent value as well. (EG)


Cellar Favorites

Laroche chablis 1992

1992 Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Blanchots La Réserve de l’Obédiencerie Grand Cru

One of the less discovered joys of Burgundy is mature Chablis. Apart from Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat, a lot of Chablis, even up to its highest echelons, is consumed in its youth.

2003 Larrivaux

2006 Domaine de Pallus Chinon

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