December 7, 2023 - Eric Guido
Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino
We’ve been waiting two years for the next big vintage from Montalcino. I’m happy to say that 2019 delivers the goods. Moreover, the 2021 Rossos show that producers continue to hone their skills in warm and dry years.
Latest Articles
More Articles
December 6, 2023 - Antonio Galloni
Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015
My visit to Roederer a few months ago, the first post-COVID-19, was memorable. After a survey of the 2022 vins clairs, longtime Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon presented a vertical of every Cristal he has made and released since assuming his current role in 1999. It was an incredibly instructive tasting that encompassed several themes over what has arguably been the most significant period in Roederer’s long history.
December 5, 2023 - Joaquín Hidalgo
Reds From Toro: Old Vines and New Knowhow
Renowned for producing wines with good structure and energy since medieval times, Toro is a small but proud DO located in Castilla y León that focuses mainly on reds. With vines that date back to pre-phylloxera times and soils that temper the region’s sunny climate, several of the labels found in Toro offer breathtaking energy and flavor.
November 30, 2023 - Eric Guido
Sardinia: Winemaking in the Extreme
Wild, rich, exotic, warming and seductive, the wines of Sardinia are unlike any others in Italy. While sometimes over-the-top, it's impossible to deny the sheer pleasure of exploring wines that showcase the unique personalities of the island's indigenous and not-so-indigenous varieties.
November 28, 2023 - Antonio Galloni
Santa Lucia Highlands: Cool-Climate Excellence in 2021
The 2021s from the Santa Lucia Highlands build on a theme of excellence seen throughout California in what has turned out to be a largely impressive vintage in many appellations. Readers will find numerous compelling wines to explore, but many of the best wines are not always the usual suspects.
November 16, 2023 - Joaquín Hidalgo
Ribera del Duero: A Shifting Frontier for Spanish Wine
Forty years after its official inception, the Ribera del Duero DO is experiencing a period of change, with a wide range of new wines and styles that run the gamut from traditional to strikingly forward-thinking. Whether its producers are focused on expressing the identity of a region or looking to push the boundaries of what can be done with premium red wines in the higher areas of Castilla y León, the DO offers a diverse range of reds along with a handful of whites whose character is defining the area’s transition from the past into the present.
November 14, 2023 - Neal Martin
White-on-White: Porseleinberg 2010-2020
Among South Africa’s clutch of world-class Syrah, Porseleinberg is regarded as the best. So what better than a vertical of every vintage to date tutored by winemaker Callie Louw?
Vinous Table
More Vinous Table
September 29, 2023 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: FYN, Cape Town, South Africa
I thoroughly enjoyed FYN. I appreciated the buzz about the place. There were a couple of dishes where, with background knowledge of Japanese cuisine, I might tweak a couple of things. Still, overall, this kaiseki-Cape fusion is imaginative and, most importantly, delicious.
September 22, 2023 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: Mountain, London, UK
When I caught wind that Anglesey-born chef Tomos Parry planned to open a new restaurant called “Mountain”, well, I could not quell my excitement.
September 15, 2023 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: 64 Goodge Street, London, UK
Overall, 64 Goodge Street is a welcome addition to the capital’s dynamic dining scene. Prices are reasonable, and the décor is tasteful and classy. I always like an open kitchen, and the service is absolutely top-notch. A central location and tempting wine list mean that oenophiles venturing to London will enjoy its take on Gallic cuisine. Plus, of course, no need to look up the address.
Vinous Favorites
More Vinous Favorites
91 points ($25)
2020 Thorn-Clarke Wines Shotfire Quartage
The surprisingly elegant 2020 Shotfire Quartage is a red blend that delivers ample layers of black cherry and dried herbs with graphite and spice touches. Good composure is on show in a fleshy mid-weight style, providing a rich blackberry flavor core with chewy tannins to finish. (AH)
91 points ($25)
2019 Avignonesi Nobile di Montepulciano
The 2019 Nobile di Montepulciano is a pleasure on the nose. Sweet spice complements raspberry and cherry aromas. Juicy acidity balances silky textures as rose-tinged red berries cascade across the palate. There’s a gentle coating of fine tannins and lovely energy as hard red candy hints fade. (EG)
92 points ($25)
2021 Cambria Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard
The 2021 Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard is laced with crushed red berry fruit. Spice, tobacco and mint are some of the notes that grace this expressive, nuanced Pinot. The 2021 was done with fully destemmed fruit, but there is a sense of savoriness here that is quite attractive. (AG)
Cellar Favorites
More Cellar Favorites
December 4, 2023 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Frédéric Mugnier caused a few ripples when, tired of witnessing his Grand Crus martyred not long after bottling in restaurants around Beaune, he decided to withhold his Musigny Vieilles Vignes until he deemed it had several years’ bottle age. I wish more growers would follow his lead.
November 27, 2023 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Hospices des Moulin-à-Vent Moulin-à-Vent
Held every November, the Hospices de Beaune is Burgundy’s most famous charity auction. It attracts global attention, celebrities and, in recent years, stratospheric hammer prices. Lying in its shadow is the annual Hospices de Nuits auction that unfairly doesn’t attract nearly the same hoopla. Yet I have encountered very fine bottlings. Until the 1971 Moulin-à-Vent was poured, I had no idea that a similar auction was held in Beaujolais. I do not know when the auction ceased and correct me if I’m wrong, but it seems lost in the mists of time.
November 20, 2023 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 2009 Maximin Grünhaus – von Schubert Abtsberg Riesling Auslese #93
Poured on a hot sunny evening in Beaune between a quick dip in the pool and a delicious supper, the 2009 Abstberg Riesling Auslese #93 from winemaker Carl von Schubert ranks as one of the greatest Rieslings I've encountered in the last five years.
