June 30, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s
This year’s Domaine de la Romanée-Conti tasting of the 2019s was quite poignant. It was the first public event I attended post lockdown; curiously the 2020 edition was the last I participated in pre-COVID. It was also Aubert de Villaine’s final year presenting the wines as Co-Manager of the domaine, a position he has held since 1974. Beyond the wines, there was a palpable feeling of gravitas in the room, a distinct sense that something of historical significance was taking place.
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June 28, 2022 - Neal Martin
Bols Blue to Bordeaux: Barde-Haut, Clos l’Église & Poesia
Patrice and Hélène Garçin-Lévêque preside over a small but very capable portfolio of Right Bank properties. This article takes a closer look at Barde-Haut, Clos l’Eglise and Poesia, the journey that each one has taken in recent years and (of course) verticals of each wine.
June 23, 2022 - Eric Guido
Sicily: Welcome to the Revolution
Sicily is hot, and I don’t mean temperature-wise. A significant rise in quality across the island, not just from Etna, has finally broken down many of the old stereotypes that once plagued the producers here. Today we are witnessing a focus on variety and place that has seldom been seen from Sicilian winemakers, and the results come through in the bottle. That said, there’s still an ocean of wine to sort through to find the best.
June 21, 2022 - Neal Martin
The Wine Was Chambertin: Rousseau 1919-2017
A vertical tasting of Armand Rousseau’s Chambertin is the stuff of dreams, a tasting that goes back to 1919, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. That should not preclude objectivity, especially not when these bottles tell the magical story of one of Burgundy’s legendary wines.
June 14, 2022 - Eric Guido
A Valle d’Aosta Interlude
Italian by definition, yet more influenced by French and Swiss neighbors, Valle d’Aosta is quite unique relative to other regions in Italy. It’s precisely that diversity that makes Valle d’Aosta both fun and intriguing to explore.
June 9, 2022 - Joaquín Hidalgo
Chile in Transition
Chile is a country experiencing major upheavals in the wine scene. This report bears witness to a wide range of regions, beyond Maipo, where new flavor palates are emerging and further identifies the current trends in classic varieties and the challenges producers face today. The result, following a tasting of 800 wines, is an increasingly complex wine map, rich in different styles, varieties and flavors.
June 8, 2022 - Joaquín Hidalgo
The 2022 Harvest in Chile: A Cool, Dry Year
It’s difficult to summarize a vintage in a country where coastal and mountain valleys experience very different conditions, but the numbers show that 2022 in Chile was defined by two stand out phenomena: a lack of water and associated lack of relative humidity, as well as low temperatures. In the context of a drought that has been going on for 13 years now and a 2021 winter with some of the lowest rainfalls ever recorded from Maule to the north, the lack of water and low humidity accelerated ripening processes in the same way as one sees in hot years.
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June 24, 2022 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: The Ritz Restaurant, London, UK
If you are seeking old school glamour. If you want to dine in a place with historic legacy. If you are not on a diet. If you want to escape the humdrum and seek a slice of razzamatazz. If you can tie a Windsor knot, then I recommend The Ritz.
June 17, 2022 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: Royal China Club, London, UK
Overall, Royal China Club delivers high-class cuisine with minimal fuss and impressive execution. Despite its location in the heart of London, it manages to conjure the ambiance of a local restaurant.
June 10, 2022 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: Tristan, Horsham, UK
This was a suitable epic dinner. It was pleasing to see Tristan recovering from the pandemic and firing on all cylinders. God knows what fellow diners thought about the performance in the corner table. But hopefully they could see that we were enjoying ourselves, something that had been denied so many of us in previous months.
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91 points ($19)
2021 Caruso e Minini
The 2021 Grillo seduces with its sweetly floral and green citrus tinged bouquet, as crushed rocks give way to honeysuckle and lemon custard. A core of sour lime and melon tones add contrast. The palate is left reeling with mouthwatering tension and a lingering minty herbal streak. (EG)
90 points ($15)
2021 J. Hofstatter Weissburgunder Pinot Bianco
The 2021 Weissburgunder Pinot Bianco wafts up with herbs and lime zest before settling on crushed green apples and ginger. Soft-textured with a reverberation of citrus tension that nicely contrasts its inner sweetness. It leaves a subtle staining of minerals through the long and juicy finale. (EG)
90 points ($12)
2020 Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner
The 2020 Sylvaner is sharply focused with lemon oils, savory herbs and young peach forming its bouquet. It’s round and soothing on the palate with sweet florality, ripe orchard fruits and a core of juicy acidity. Confectionery spice and candied citrus linger on the medium length finish. (EG)
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June 27, 2022 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 2014 Domaine Denis Mortet Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, which is part of a métayage agreement like the Echézeaux here, was a surprise addition to dinner in Bordeaux last March.
June 21, 2022 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 1981 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Hermitage
I always loved the good old days when Australian winemakers “borrowed” the names of classic French wine regions to brand their cuvées. Cheeky? An homage? Theft? Well, the EU bureaucrats soon put a stop to all those Chablis and Hermitages made “Down Under”, but that doesn’t imply that some of them were not genuinely worthy of such noble appellations or even surpassed them.
June 13, 2022 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 1978 Pavie
Meeting a friend for lunch at the bustling “Brutto” Italian restaurant near Farringdon Station last February, my generous host served a wine blind that epitomized everything great about “old school Bordeaux”. Ironically, it was from an estate that later became the paragon/pariah of modern winemaking depending on your views: Château Pavie.
