January 26, 2023 - Neal Martin
Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020
This article cleans out my cupboard of miscellaneous Bordeaux tasting notes. It embraces legendary bottles and iconic vintages, minnows and seasons long-forgotten, even derided. Few pleasures in life surpass that of a bottle of wine with years under its belt.
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January 19, 2023 - Josh Raynolds
The Deep Bench of Gigondas
Like the rest of the Rhône valley, and Europe, Gigondas has been confronting hot, dry weather conditions since 2017. Luckily, the best, most experienced growers and winemakers have handled the situation with a steady hand. Still, there’s no question that many wines from recent vintages are distinctly powerful, often high in alcohol, with more dark fruit character and tannic structure than usual.
January 17, 2023 - Eric Guido
The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino
The 2012 Brunello di Montalcinos immediately appealed to buyers, consumers and restaurant-goers. While warm and dry, 2012 yielded balanced wines, but the big question has always been: how well will they mature over time?
January 12, 2023 - Joaquín Hidalgo
Luján de Cuyo: Old Vines and a Patchwork of Soils
Luján de Cuyo is a historic region that is reinventing itself and looking to a terroir-based future. This report covers the relaunch of the first D.O.C. in South America, several new Malbecs and a handful of old vintages, exploring how a region with much to offer is making the most of its best qualities.
January 10, 2023 - Antonio Galloni
2019 Barolo: Back on Track
After the highly problematic and uneven 2018s, Barolo bounces back with a stellar vintage in 2019 that could very well represent the beginning of a new cycle of strong, outstanding years for this historic appellation. The 2019s are potent, tightly wound wines that will thrill readers who appreciate the nuance, subtlety and structure of Nebbiolo. Today, the 2019s show elements of youthful austerity that, at times, recall vintages such as 2016, 2005 and 1999. The only thing 2019 lacks is some of the visceral excitement found in the very best years, although the top wines certainly check all the boxes.
January 11, 2023 - Neal Martin
Burgundy 2021: The Market
This opinion piece was originally composed as part of my 2021 Burgundy report. Given the escalation of prices in recent years, here, I discuss what is fueling this inflation, its potential consequences and trends I have seen with respect to Burgundy’s distribution.
January 5, 2023 - Neal Martin
Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021
Apart from devastating black frost, snow, stunted vine growth, mud, mildew, oïdium, rot, localised hail, difficulties recruiting pickers, erroneous weather forecasts, tiny yields and problems filling vats, the 2021 growing season went swimmingly well in the Côte d’Or. Welcome to the most frustrating, convoluted, brilliant, disappointing, vexing, motley, inspiring, distasteful, delicious, remarkable vintage in recent years.
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January 27, 2023 - Neal Martin
Vinous Table: Moor Hall, Lancashire, UK
Moor Hall completely blew me away; lofty expectations surpassed and then some. It takes the best parts of its peers and combines them into something greater.
December 9, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
Vinous Table: Guido Ristorante, Piedmont, Italy
Guido Ristorante remains one of my very favorite spots in Piedmont. Food, service and hospitality are absolutely top-notch.
December 2, 2022 - Antonio Galloni
Vinous Table: Guido da Costigliole, Cuneo, Italy
Readers visiting Piedmont should carve out the time to go to Guido at the Relais San Maurizio. The hotel is wonderful too, should you not want to leave. Andrea Alciati, Monica Magnani and the team at Guido are at the top of their game.
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91 points ($25)
2020 Marco De Bartoli Rosso di Marco
The 2020 Rosso di Marco (Pignatello, a local biotype of Perricone) opens with a fresh bouquet of crushed strawberries, roses and white pepper. It's round and supple, with dark red fruits and spices. Zesty acidity adds a sweet and sour twang as vivid notes of licorice fade. (EG)
90 points ($15)
2021 Cantine Colosi Nero d'Avola
The 2021 Nero d'Avola punches well above its price point with a burst of lavender, violet and blackberry on the nose. This is soft textured yet juicy to the core, with depths of sweet cherry offset by vibrant acidity. The 2021 finishes classically dry with a subtle tug of dusty tannins. (EG)
92 points ($25)
2020 Inama Soave Classico Foscarino
The 2020 Foscarino displays a beguiling mix of crushed oyster shells, slate, dried pears and lemon oil. It’s round, verging on opulent, with an inner sweetness; saline minerals add a tactile feel. It finishes fresh yet potent. Peach and vanilla custard nuances are punctuated by sour citrus. (EG)
Cellar Favorites
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January 30, 2023 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 1895 Cossart Gordon Bual
Few wines are as indestructible as Madeira. Plenty of 19th-century wines continue to thrive. Following a recent exploration of Frédéric Mugnier’s Chambolle Les Amoureuses, we finished with this fine 128-year-old Madeira that affirmed its time-bending properties.
January 23, 2023 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 1989 Domaine de Trévallon Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Les Baux
In the early days of my career, I drank a lot of mature bottles from Domaine de Trévallon, including one memorable dinner in London with numerous vintages.
January 17, 2023 - Neal Martin
Cellar Favorite: 1974 Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Gravelly Meadow
I have always had a soft spot for Diamond Creek Vineyards, charmed by Al and Boots Brounstein, who would regularly pour their wines in London in the early days of my career.
