Vinous Table: Brat x Climpson’s Arch, Hackney, United Kingdom
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Apr 2021
Rejoice! Restaurants in the UK are (sort of) open again. I could not have chosen a more perfect reintroduction to fine dining.
Album Review of Dry Cleaning – New Long Leg
Beyond Wine
, Apr 2021
The first time I heard of Dry Cleaning was when I caught Scratchcard Lanyard on BBC Radio 6, the title alone alerting me to something different, two unconnected words co-habiting a title that is totally meaningless and yet…scratchcard lanyard…yes, they belong together. It sticks in your head.
Cellar Favorite: 2018 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Célébration
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2021
A few years ago, I was fortunate to attend an evening tasting of ancient vintages from Louis Jadot reserves, a cornucopia of rare bottles stretching back to the 1860s.
Cellar Favorite: 1980 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Vosne-Romanée Les Petits-Monts 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2021
Invited to supper at a fellow wine scribe’s abode in Beaune last October, our host served this little gem from one of Burgundy’s less heralded vintages.
Vinous Table: Le Relais de Saulx, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2021
Le Relais de Saulx served one of the best evening meals I had in Burgundy last year. I enjoyed its cozy and informal ambiance; it’s one of several recent additions to the Beaune restaurant scene that is refreshingly relaxed and unstuffy.
Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa
featured, South Africa
, Apr 2021
Postponed several times due to matters beyond my control, thankfully the intermittently showstopping wines of South Africa were worth the wait, proving that the pandemic has not slowed down the momentum of the Cape.
Wiston Estate & The Trouble With Dreams
featured, United Kingdom
, Apr 2021
Overseeing the wines of Wiston and his own label, Trouble With Dreams, Dermot Sugrue is one of the UK’s most talented and intriguing winemakers. Anyone believing that English sparkling wine should not be taken seriously should read this in-depth and revealing article.
Beyond Wine: Album Review of Black Honey – Written & Directed
Beyond Wine, United Kingdom
, Mar 2021
I have been slightly obsessed with Brighton-based Black Honey for a while now. They have the whole package. Written & Directed is a step up from their impressive eponymous debut in 2018. Everything is bigger, louder and bolder.
Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2021
Following the vertical that I conducted at the estate back in 2018, I recently joined Emmanuel Cruse via Zoom for a small tasting of recent vintages of “The Fives”, including the 2000 d’Issan that was not included in my The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 article.
Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Mar 2021
Beaune would not be Beaune without Ma Cuisine. For sure, I missed the atmosphere that makes Ma Cuisine what it is, but it will return with flocks of customers once COVID-19 is in the rearview mirror.