Choose Wisely: Château Sérilhan 2008–2017
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2021
Bordeaux is often criticized for charging a king’s ransom for its top wines. In reality, it is a vast cradle of quality that can offer unbeatable value, depending on how far you are willing to venture beyond the famous names. Some of the price tags dangling from ordinary Burgundy Villages reinforce the argument that wine lovers get much more bang for their buck in Bordeaux than in the Côte d’Or. However, the plethora of châteaux means that consumers can easily become overwhelmed, which is why it is important to shine the spotlight on top performers from lesser-known names, away from the Grand Cru Classés.
Vinous Table: New Year Lockdown
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Jan 2021
Surviving until the end of this wretched year felt like something worth celebrating, so we decided upon a Japanese-themed evening. Given that we were isolating in Guildford rather than Tokyo, we had to make some compromises on the food front.
Cellar Favorite: 1961 Taylor’s Very Old Single Harvest Port
Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2021
After half-a-century, Taylor’s have just released a 1961 Very Old Single Harvest Port. The 1961 growing season was no write off.
2020 - In The Rear View Mirror
featured, Beyond Wine, General Interest
, Dec 2020
Though 2020 was tumultuous, the virus failed to stop great wines, wonderful dinners, amazing music or classic TV. It made them even more precious - shards of light in dark times. Now that I managed to reach the end of the year, time to look back before looking forward.
La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Nuits
France: Burgundy, featured
, Dec 2020
The second part of my 2019 Burgundy report examines producers based in the Côte de Nuits. Did Pinot Noir excel or suffer in the warm, dry summer?
La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Beaune
France: Burgundy, featured
, Dec 2020
As Burgundy contends with warmer, drier growing seasons, the 2019 vintage demonstrates how vine and winemaker are adapting and often thriving in the so-called “new normal”. First, we look at the Côte de Beaune.
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Cellar Favorite: 2019 Paulus Wine Co. Chenin Blanc Bosberaad
South Africa, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2020
I thoroughly enjoyed Joaquin Hildago’s recent article on collectible Argentinean wines, and it got me thinking about parallels with South Africa’s own collectibles. It’s not just Bordeaux and Burgundy.
Lagrange 1959-2015
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Bordeaux
, Dec 2020
Suntory’s acquisition of Château Lagrange in 1983 saw an under-performer blossom into one of the most consistent and widely-appreciated wines of Saint-Julien. This article details its history, terroir and winemaking, plus a complete vertical from 1983 to 2015.
Cellar Favorite: 2001 Domaine Yvon Clerget Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2020
Following our lengthy tasting of 2018s and 2019s, Clerget opened and served blind three older bottles made by his father, Yvon.
Cellar Favorite: 2017 Domaine Didier Montchovet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Nov 2020
Why a piddling Bourgogne Hautes-Côte de Whatever? What numbskull chooses to cellar such low ranking Burgundy? And who the hell is Didier Montchovet? Pull up a chair and let me explain why I chose this particular wine.