Friuli: It is What It Is, Part 1

Friuli’s oenological landscape is one of the most diverse and multi-faceted in Italy. An extraordinary range of sites and microclimates, along with influences from neighboring Slovenia and Austria, yields wines that at their best are compelling. That is the good news.

But times are tough in Friuli. There is no getting around it. Several high-profile estates have been sold recently, including Schiopetto – arguably the most famous winery in Friuli – while Dorigo, another historic family, sold off their top vineyards. My impression is that a number of other properties are facing significant economic challenges.

Twenty years ago, Friuli was the undisputed number one region in Italy for white wines. That has changed dramatically. Today nearly every region in Italy makes interesting wines, so there are fewer reasons for restaurants to bring in wines from other parts of the country. Domestic demand has dried up. Internationally, quality has exploded everywhere, which means competition is more intense than it has ever been. Friuli is also hindered by high production costs (especially in hillside vineyards that require intense manual labor), which frequently places these wines at a competitive disadvantage in an increasingly global marketplace.

A street view in Cormòns, Collio