France
Pauillac
Bordeaux
Red
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
00
2014
2017 - 2026
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00
2023
2028 - 2043
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00
2023
2027 - 2037
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Nicolas Glumineau spends his time making outstanding Bordeaux wines or vexing about when The Cure will release their eternally delayed new album. Frankly, a reclassification of 1855 is more likely than a new Robert Smith tune. “It is confusing in terms of the drastic conditions,” Glumineau tells me, talking about the 2023 growing season, not prospects of a new Cure album. “There was a lot of rain and mildew pressure. We’ve been organic since 2021, so spraying copper for three to four months was a lot of work. On top of this, in 2023, we had more than 1,200mm of rain, the highest in Bordeaux, but from mid-July to mid-September, it was dry, and the vines faced drought conditions. So, we have to train the vines via pruning, planting density and biodynamics to keep the water so that the root system does not struggle. We have 13.01% alcohol for the Grand Vin. It reminds me of wines produced in the 2000s. To me, it is more than an average vintage. It's the kind of wine I want to drink.”
00
2022
2028 - 2042
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00
2022
2028 - 2040
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00
2022
2025 - 2040
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00
2021
2025 - 2038
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00
2021
2026 - 2036
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00
2021
2025 - 2038
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“The situation was not as bad as at de Pez as at Pichon Lalande,” Nicolas Glumineau explained. “At de Pez we made 57hL/ha compared to 15hL/ha at Pichon, which is one-third of our usual crop. That was a trauma. After the 2020 vintage we calculated that almost 50% of the vineyard is biodynamic and half sustainable, using around 92% organic controls. In March [2021], I decided just to go for organic 100%. We could not imagine how much spraying we had to do: 17 just for mildew and even that was not enough. Between mid-June and mid-July, it rained less than up to mid-May, but there was mildew in the vineyard, and that’s how we lost part of the Merlot and then the Cabernet. Merlot suffered coulure and mildew. We picked from 22 September and finished 5 October before the rain - I did not want to add rot to everything else. At sorting, we declassified more of the crop to be sure. We just aimed for quality as we had already lost the volume. That meant we had to ferment some of the vats together. The rest of the winemaking was fine, with a smooth extraction and the vin de presse (14% for Réserve and 12.5% for Pichon Lalande) that gave you the mid-palate and depth. I am exhausted by the season. Even the blending was not obvious. I might rack less often than usual to keep a reduction and balance.”
00
2021
2026 - 2036
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00
2020
2025 - 2035
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00
2020
2026 - 2040
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00
2019
2027 - 2039
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00
2019
2024 - 2044
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00
2019
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00
2018
2021 - 2030
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00
2018
2021 - 2034
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00
2018
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Few winemakers can match Nicolas Glumineau at Pichon-Comtesse when it comes to pure passion and a total dedication to making the very best wine possible. “I’m just a second growth,” he says with typical modesty. “For many people Pichon-Comtesse will never be as highly regarded as the First Growths.” I am not sure I agree. The 2018 Pichon-Comtesse is one of the wines of the vintage and is shaping up to be very close to the 2016 in terms of quality. “The biggest difference between 2018 and 2016 is not the Cabernets, but the Merlots, and we are on the Left Bank,” Glumineau added “I think 2018 is more heterogenous than people expect, because as winemakers we had to ask ourselves ‘What kind of wine do I want to make?’”
00
2017
2024 - 2037
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00
2017
2021 - 2035
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00
2017
2019 - 2030
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00
2017
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00
2016
2021 - 2040
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00
2016
2021 - 2036
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00
2016
2021 - 2040
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00
2016
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Pichon-Lalande is the single hottest property in the Médoc right now. Since arriving from Montrose in 2012, technical director Nicolas Glumineau has set his sights on improving quality, and the last few vintages suggest that he is well on his way to achieving that objective. In 2016, the harvest stretched out over an entire month, from September 20 to October 20. The wines came in between 13.1 and 13.3% alcohol, which is lower than either 2009 or 2010, both of which were close to 13.5 percent, and yet they have remarkable intensity, phenomenal balance and off-the-charts levels of tannin. These are among the most complete and satisfying wines of the vintage.
00
2015
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00
2015
2022 - 2035
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Nicolas Glumineau has done a magnificent job with the 2015s at Pichon-Lalande. I first tasted the 2015s in January, when the wines were trial blends, and then several times in late March and early April. I was never anything less than deeply impressed. In short, Pichon-Lalande is one of the must-have wines of the vintage. It's as simple as that.
00
2015
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Nicolas Glumineau has done a magnificent job with the 2015s at Pichon-Lalande. I first tasted the 2015s in January, when the wines were trial blends, and then several times in late March and early April. I was never anything less than deeply impressed. In short, Pichon-Lalande is one of the must-have wines of the vintage. It's as simple as that.
00
2014
2025 - 2044
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2014
2020 - 2032
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2014
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Nicolas Glumineau has done a terrific job with these two 2014s at Pichon-Lalande. As was the case at many properties, the harvest at Pichon-Lalande stretched out over a long period of time than is the norm. Gentle extractions resulted in wines that are gorgeous and complete, with expressive aromatics, plenty of fruit and a level of underlying structure in reserve that is going to need time to fully emerge. The entire portfolio of the team, which includes sister properties Haut-Beausejour and de Pez is very strong in 2014.
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2013
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Pichon-Lalande's striking new winery is now complete. As is the case in many cellars, smaller tanks that allow for more parcel-by-parcel vinification are the norm. The harvest started on September 30 and finished on October 10. Extractions were gentle, with lower temperatures than normal, and pumpovers only during vinification. The Merlot was completely hammered by rot, so for the first time ever the Grand Vin is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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2012
2022 - 2030
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2012
2016 - 2022
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2011
2022 - 2026
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2010
2021 - 2032
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2010
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2009
2021 - 2035
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2009
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2007
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According to technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam, "we obtained our objective of ripeness and sap in '07, but it wasn't easy." In fact, he added, Pichon-Lalande's vineyard manager, who retired this year after 35 vintages, called 2007 his most difficult growing season. With consulting help from Denis Dubourdieu, the team did much more "green work" in the vineyard than in past years-and everywhere, not just in certain blocks. "We had 80 people in the vines from April to August," noted Do-Chi-Nam. He pointed out that the vinifications here now begin with cooler vats, and thus the fermentations are slower to start. "As a result, we are now getting more fatness in our wines, and more floral character," he told me.
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2006
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The big news here is that Hubert de Bouard, owner of L'Angelus, was brought in to consult beginning with the 2006 harvest. Technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam gave a clear explanation of the challenges of the 2006 harvest. "In the hot weather of early September, some of the grape skins burned in the sun, and this made them a bit fragile and could have compromised some of the merlot in particular," he said. "Then the ripeness happened quickly in our various blocks." Do-Chi-Nam said the estate ultimately declassified more merlot than usual, opting to retain "the sappy, round, fresh lots." He noted that Pichon-Lalande had coulure in both its cabernet and merlot vines, so the estate began with 10% fewer berries in 2006 than in 2005. Production was a reasonable 41 hectoliters per hectare.
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2005
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The 2005 Pichon-Lalande was one of the more surprising wines of the vintage in April. Made in a rather polite, highly aromatic style, it struck me as almost more Margaux than Pauillac in character. For his part, technical director Thomas Do-Chi-Nam described vintage 2004 as "very Pauillac," and the new 2005 as "very Pichon-Lalande." The fruit in '05 was ripe and nicely concentrated, he explained, with the same number of grape clusters as usual but with smaller berries and thorough ripeness promising a lot of tannins. "We pick for red fruits, not jammy fruits," noted Do-Chi-Nam. "Too many people tried to extract everything; but that's not our way of thinking." Incidentally, this wine features a high percentage of cabernet and less merlot than usual, a formula I usually associate with the best vintages here.
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2004
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Much of the quality of the 2004 Pichon-Lalande is attributable to the strict green harvest that was carried out in July, asserts marketing director Gildas d'Ollone. The estate harvested over a period of three weeks, stopping a couple of times to wait for more thorough ripeness, and ultimately produced a wine rich in polyphenols (IPT of 73), with 13% alcohol, a rather high pH of 3.86, but sound acidity of 3.4 grams per liter. The most important thing is that even the tannins in the pips were ripe, noted Ollone. Pichon-Lalande used saignee to concentrate the must and also made some use of vacuum evaporation.
00
1982
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This wine was tasted as a part of wine collector Bruce Fingeret's 50th Birthday Party, July 2008.
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