2014 Alter Ego
France
Margaux, Médoc
Bordeaux
Red
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot (2023 vintage)
00
2014
2020 - 2029
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The 2014s at Palmer are striking wines. Both the Alter Ego and the Grand Vin are built for precision and detail, rather than size. This is the first vintage in which the entire vineyard was farmed biodynamically. Thomas Duroux did not add any SO2 at crush, but only after the malolactic fermentations. Duroux describes his approach to 2014 as gentle, with soft extractions and only a few pump-overs.
00
2023
2028 - 2048
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00
2023
2028 - 2043
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"We were unsure of quality all the way through August because vegetative growth continued," CEO Thomas Duroux explained at Palmer. The estate lost a full 30% of the crop through dehydration, one of the more extreme examples of heat I saw in Bordeaux this year. Harvest started on September 11 with the Merlots. Two blocks came in on the 19th, but the core of picking took place from September 26 to October 5th. Both wines are exceptional, but the Grand Vin is shaping up the something truly special. As has been the case now for a few years, both wines are aged for a year in French oak barrique and then a year in cask.
00
2022
2027 - 2050
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00
2022
2030 - 2052
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00
2022
2027 - 2042
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“The challenge was achieving phenolic ripeness. As a result, harvest took nearly a month, from September 7 to October 5,” CEO Thomas Duroux explained. Yields were 22 hectoliters per hectare. As has been the case for a few years now, both Palmer and Alter Ego spend a year in small barrel and a second year in wood, but almost all cask.
00
2022
2027 - 2050
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00
2021
2027 - 2050
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00
2021
2026 - 2041
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00
2021
2026 - 2041
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Thomas Duroux presented two stellar 2021s at Palmer. "The vines just did not want to stop growing. Luckily, the last 5-6 weeks of the growing season were dry and warm enough to ripen the crop," he told me. “Mildew impacted our yields in 2021 by about 20%, but the pressure was earlier in the year than in 2018. Having cover crops helped absorb some of the extra moisture.” One of the recent developments at Palmer is that the wines now spend their second year in oak aging in cask rather than standard barrique, which seems to give an added layer of understatement and nuance that is beguiling.
00
2021
2027 - 2050
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Thomas Duroux has overseen a transition of Palmer’s vineyards to biodynamic principles in recent years (I spent a morning inspecting their parcels for a future standalone piece on the estate.) I was interested to see how they coped with 2021 with the fraught but ultimately triumphant 2018 still fresh in their minds. “We lost 8.5 hectares to frost,” he told me, “mostly Merlot that goes into the Alter Ego. Then there was rain and big mildew pressure in late June and July when we lost 20% of the crop, but we managed it better than in 2018. July was rainy, and the vines did not stop growing, which was a concern. By mid-August I was pessimistic with respect to the size and quality of crop. Then it changed, and we had five weeks of dry weather which was a very good thing. We started picking on 24 September. The first vats of Merlot were pleasant, but the question was how the wine would be balanced in terms of tannin construction. We feared we would have a hole on the mid-palate. We took our time with the Cabernet Sauvignon. The key to the vintage was when we harvested an old Cabernet Sauvignon plot, which was the only plot with a high yield (45hL/ha). We saw the potential of juice (11% alcohol) and we presumed it was weak, when other plots with lower yield (27hL/ha) had better construction and stronger mid-palates. So, the five weeks of dry weather, plus the small yields due to mildew pressure are the two key elements of what is a qualitative vintage. In the end, the wines needed a little chaptalisation as there was a small risk of harshness in the tannin structure, just half a degree. The acidities are good, 3.71pH for Palmer, good IPT, a little higher than average and wines that are a modern version of wines of the last century. My feeling is that year after year, the vines are in better connection with their environment and this helps them adapt to the weather fluctuations.”
00
2020
2025 - 2040
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00
2020
2027 - 2045
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00
2019
2026 - 2039
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00
2018
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00
2017
2022 - 2032
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00
2017
2021 - 2036
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00
2017
2021 - 2035
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Estate manager Thomas Duroux lamented that he lost some of his crop. “Fifteen hectares were hit by the frost, mostly Alter Ego vineyards. Towards the western side [of the vineyard] these were totally destroyed,” he explains. “One block was partially frosted with first and second generation bunches and at véraison we decided to lop off all the second generation fruit allowing the first to ripen. Picking started 20 September and finished on 29 September, a relatively early harvest. We knew from July we would not have very tannic fruit due to the rain postponing the vegetative growth and phenolic accumulation. In September the rain made the berries a little bigger, so we knew that there was a risk in terms of ripeness. The key was to find the right balance in the wine. Since 2014 we have not used sulfite before fermentation and this time, no SO2 in the fruit or selected yeast. Also we postponed the first SO2 addition, which was done at the end of February at blending instead of the malolactic. This helps the fruit expression and tannin finesse.” Similar to Château Margaux, this year I discerned quite a tangible difference between the Château Palmer and Alter Ego (even though the latter is not strictly a deuxième vin). As usual, my sample of the Grand Vin was extracted from a used barrel so I had to factor that in projecting how the wine will evolve going forward.
00
2017
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00
2016
2022 - 2035
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00
2016
2022 - 2035
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00
2016
2022 - 2026
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00
2016
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Thomas Duroux and his team made two exceptionally beautiful wines in 2016. In many ways, the two Palmer reds epitomize the personality of the vintage on the Left Bank with their lower alcohols and fresh, invigorating personalities
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2015
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00
2015
2022 - 2035
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These two wines from Palmer are absolutely brilliant. In Thomas Duroux's view, the challenge in 2015 was balancing sugars with acidity and tannin. Potential alcohols were high (in the 14% range), while acidities were low and tannin ripeness in the skins and seeds was healthy. As a result, Duroux chose to do more pumpovers than normal. The resulting wines are sexy, voluptuous and radiant, especially in terms of their feel. The Alter Ego in particular is a fabulous second wine. Harvest took place between September 22 and October 7. Average yields were 37 hectoliters per hectare.
00
2015
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These two wines from Palmer are absolutely brilliant. In Thomas Duroux's view, the challenge in 2015 was balancing sugars with acidity and tannin. Potential alcohols were high (in the 14% range), while acidities were low and tannin ripeness in the skins and seeds was healthy. As a result, Duroux chose to do more pumpovers than normal. The resulting wines are sexy, voluptuous and radiant, especially in terms of their feel. The Alter Ego in particular is a fabulous second wine. Harvest took place between September 22 and October 7. Average yields were 37 hectoliters per hectare.
00
2014
2024 - 2034
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00
2014
2020 - 2040
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00
2014
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There is quite a bit going on at Palmer in 2014, including the 200th anniversary of Charles Palmer's purchase of the estate. Two thousand fourteen is the first vintage in which the entire estate was farmed biodynamically and also the first vintage in which winemaker Thomas Duroux did not add any SO2 at crush, only after the malolactic fermentations. Duroux describes his approach to 2014 as gentle, with soft extractions and only a few pump-overs. Overall, the 2014s are forward and juicy, with the tannins nearly buried by the sheer richness of the fruit.
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2013
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Palmer's winemaker Thomas Duroux initially planned to start picking in early October, but rain at the end of September and the ensuing warm temperatures accelerated harvest times, as the onset of botrytis was imminent. Duroux describes 2013 as a year in which the phenolics ripened before the sugars, which is unusual. Yields were 25 hectoliters per hectare. The fruit came in at about 12.5% natural alcohol, which Duroux felt was not quite enough to balance acidity, so the wines were lightly chaptalized by 0.5%. Fermentations were done at lower temperatures with the goal of gentle extraction, while total time on the skins was a little shorter than normal. The wines were racked into barrel for the malolactic fermentations and the blends were assembled in March. In 2013, the Grand Vin represents just 1/3rd of the production, the rest went into Alter Ego, and that is after roughly 10% of the lots were discarded from both wines. Although much of Palmer has been farmed biodynamically for some years, the estate will be 100% biodynamic with the 2014 harvest.
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2012
2016 - 2027
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2011
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2010
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2010
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2009
2021 - 2040
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2009
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2008
2018 - 2028
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2007
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2006
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This was a fascinating visit in April, as I came here from Chateau Margaux, where most of the merlot was left out of the grand vin and the final blend was a full 90% cabernet sauvignon. At Palmer, the 2006 features 44% merlot and I had the impression that the merlot here was about as good as this variety got in the Medoc in 2006. (This should not come as a surprise, because Chateau Margaux's finest terroirs are planted to cabernet, while Palmer's best-drained, gravelly soils, more often reserved for cabernet elsewhere in the Medoc, are reserved for its merlot.) In fact, manager Thomas Duroux described the merlot in 2006 as "a great surprise" and said that he underrated it at the outset. Some rain at the end of August expanded the berries and the skins became fragile during the heat of early September, he told me. Ultimately the merlot was picked earlier than was originally expected (beginning on September 19), and the extraction was lighter than normal, and at a cooler fermentation temperature. "Early on I was convinced that this would be a classic cabernet vintage, with a high percentage of sauvignon," said Duroux. But although the merlot was less dense than it had been in 2005, Duroux felt that this variety added flesh to the cabernet sauvignon without compromising the purity of the wine. On the other hand, Duroux declassified the petit verdot into the estate's second wine, Alter Ego, as he felt it was aromatic but not sufficiently structured.
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2005
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"We picked on the taste of the grapes, beginning only on September 22," said Thomas Duroux. "At that point we discovered that the sugar levels were very high. And the cabernet came in during the first week of October; we waited a long time for the tannins to mature." With Palmer (and the estate's second wine, Alter Ego) weighing in at about 14% alcohol, the highest level ever recorded at this property, long-time Palmer fans may not know quite what to do with the 2005. But this extraordinarily dense, thick and seamless wine is going to give pleasure for upwards of three decades. Incidentally, Duroux told me that the estate loved its merlot in 2005, especially for its balance. The crop level at Palmer was a very low 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2005, and, thanks to the later harvesting, the IPT an unusually high 75. Duroux added 8% press wine to the blend "for fruit."
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2004
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Thomas Duroux, previously in charge of Ornellaia, took over as manager of Palmer in July, just in time to preside over drastic elimination of clusters and the removal of the lateral shoots, especially in the merlot vines. The focus of the work in the vineyards, as well as the work in the winery, has been on improving the quality of tannins. Duroux describes 2004 as "a classic fresh vintage," and his first wine will be a strong debut.
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1999
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Beginning with the '98 vintage, Palmer will offer its new second wine, Alter Ego, en primeur. Alter Ego is made as "another style of Palmer," in the words of estate manager Bertrand Bouteiller. The denser lots are reserved for the grand vin, while Alter Ego, consisting of a higher percentage of merlot, is vinified for elegance. Bouteiller describes the '99 Palmer as having a ripeness of tannins rare for this estate. The cabernet sauvignon, at a very healthy 12% natural alcohol, was very easy to extract, and thus the cuvaison was shorter and more gentle than usual. A bit of concentration was done using the Entropie method, whereas in '98 no saignee or other concentration technique was utilized.
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