France
Saint Estèphe
Bordeaux
Red
61% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
00
2014
2018 - 2029
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Both wines from Montrose show why Saint-Estèphe is one of the bright spots in 2014. Winemaker Vincent Decup gave the 2014s 21-23 days on the skins and noted that fermentations were slow to finish. Overall, the 2014s at Montrose are remarkably polished and silky. While the tannins are present, they are also nearly buried by the pure intensity of the fruit.
00
2023
2026 - 2037
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00
2023
2027 - 2043
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00
2022
2026 - 2040
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00
2022
2028 - 2042
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00
2022
2028 - 2042
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“Starting in June, we had four heat spikes where temperatures soared above 35 degrees,” explained Technical Director Vincent Decup. “We worked the soils early, removing the cover crop to reduce competition with the vines. We lowered the canopies and deleafed just before harvest, more of a practical consideration for the pickers than anything else. There was a bit of damage from hail, but it was 5-7%. Consider that we had 20mm of water from July 1 through to harvest instead of the 200mm or so that is more typical. In the cellar we opted for shorter extractions. The wines have alcohols in the 14.5% range, so similar to 2019 and lower than 2018.”
00
2022
2026 - 2040
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00
2021
2024 - 2035
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00
2021
2027 - 2041
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00
2021
2026 - 2036
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00
2021
2024 - 2035
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There are changes afoot at Montrose, at least in terms of personnel, as Herve Berland retires and is replaced by Pierre Graffeuille from Léoville Las-Cases. I tasted with the full team including technical director Vincent Decup. “The weather was quite complicated,” Decup told me. “The season was more complicated than usual with more rain from March to July. We lost 5-6% of the crop due to mildew pressure. It’s more difficult because we farm organically and worked five weekends applying copper before the rains, sometimes twice a week. We moved the harvest to 21 September until 6 October. There were 11 days of harvest over that period. There were a few showers, but not too heavy. It was important to decide on the exact date of picking for each parcel. The Merlot was slightly larger than usual and the Petit Verdot and the Cabernet Sauvignon about the same. We used 31% Merlot in the final blend, which is more than usual (around 20%) because the yields were higher (38hL/ha for the Montrose), even though we only used Merlot on gravel soils that reached a higher level than those of Merlot on clayey soils. Analytically, it seemed like the maturity was not there as the sugar levels were lower, but when we tasted the berries, the skins and tannins were ripe. The conditions at the end of the harvest were similar to those of 2014. We did less remontage during the three-week cuvaison, especially at the end of the period to maintain the balance of the wines. The blend is matured in 60% new oak and 33% for the La Dame de Montrose. We used the vin de presse, around 12% in all three wines, to obtain the density and concentration instead of pressing harder. We feel that the 2021 Montrose is in a similar vein to the 2014, maybe to the 1988 but with much more precision.”
00
2020
2025 - 2042
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2020
2025 - 2035
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2020
2025 - 2038
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00
2019
2026 - 2055
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00
2019
2025 - 2043
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00
2019
2024 - 2034
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00
2018
2023 - 2033
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00
2018
2022 - 2042
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2018
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“In terms of rain, heat and sunshine, 2018 is very similar to 2009,” Montrose CEO Hervé Berland recounted. With 75-80% of the property now farmed biodynamically, Montrose had its challenges with mildew in 2018. “Ultimately, dehydration in summer was a bigger factor than mildew when it comes to yields. Our production at Montrose was 25 hectoliters per hectare are opposed to our recent historical average of about 35,” explained Technical Director Vincent Decup.
00
2017
2022 - 2037
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00
2017
2021 - 2032
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00
2017
2019 - 2030
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Estate manager Hervé Berland was on hand to describe the growing season.“It was an early vintage, bud-break starting on 29 March, with no frost at all. We were lucky. During the beginning of June we had warm conditions for flowering without any disease pressure. June was very hot. This was the only time we saw some hydric stress, but then we had some rainfall. From July to harvest it was mostly fresh with intermittent showers, 15 days with hot temperatures. The weather was changeable. We started the harvest on 12 September and all the parcels were mature around the same time. We picked the crop in 13 days compared to 16 days for the 2016, finishing on 29 September with the final crop around 45hl/ha.” (During my second visit, I was shown a 3D map of the vineyard, blocks manically colored in, as they were picked throughout September to demonstrate the complex pattern of the harvest. If only the real harvest had taken just 30 seconds.We didn’t have to do a lot of sorting because our pickers, who come from Spain, sort the clusters in the vineyard. We use optical sorting that took out only around 1.5% of the fruit but generally there was not too much to sort by the time the fruit reached the reception. This is the first vintage in the new vat-room, which means there are 82 different batches this year, almost double than previous years. It makes it more complicated when you do the blind tastings, which we do five or six times, though it imparts additional precision into the wine. The cuvaison was shorter than usual as the color came easily, around 19 to 21 days whereas usually it is 21 to 23 days. The Merlot was a little affected by the summer, showing less concentration in some parcels that shortened the overall length [of the wine], so the blend is more Cabernet Sauvignon at 76%. We added 12% pressed wine this year. The Grand Vin is matured in 60% new oak and around 35% for the La Dame de Montrose.”
00
2017
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00
2016
2023 - 2036
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00
2016
2022 - 2036
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00
2016
2022 - 2036
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00
2016
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00
2015
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00
2015
2020 - 2030
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These two wines from Montrose are certainly good, but they lack depth and structure that is typical of the strongest vintages.
00
2015
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These two wines from Montrose are certainly good, but they lack depth and structure that is typical of the strongest vintages.
00
2014
2025 - 2040
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2014
2018 - 2027
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2014
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I tasted a wide range of wines at Montrose with General Manager Hervé Berland and Winemaker Vincent Decup, including the 2012s and 2011s, which I will be reporting on in a forthcoming article. The 2014s are quite different, as they are wines built on silkiness and the fully mature tannins that are the result of the late-ripening vintage. The harvest took place between September 15 and October 16. Decup gave the 2014s 21-23 days on the skins and noted that fermentations were slow to finish. Overall, the 2014s at Montrose are remarkably polished and silky. While the tannins are present, they are also nearly buried by the pure intensity of the fruit.
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2013
2023 - 2026
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2013
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Montrose's 2013s are among the most successful wines of the vintage. Merlot was especially challenged here because of poor weather during flowering, which caused considerable coulure and millerandage. As a result the Grand Vin has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon since 1996, a theme readers will see at many estates on the left bank. The Merlots were brought in starting on September 26, while the Cabernets followed beginning on October 7. According to CEO Hervé Berland, the goal was to extract as gently as possible. Fermentations were done at slightly lower temperatures than normal and were also shorter. Readers who are familiar with Montrose know the vineyards border the Gironde. One has to wonder if the proximity to ventilation was a huge help in combatting the outbreak of rot that was widespread in the days leading up to the harvest. Overall, yields are down about 25% across the board.
00
2012
2022 - 2030
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2012
2018 - 2032
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2010
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2009
2021 - 2030
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2008
2018 - 2020
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00
2005
2021 - 2025
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2005
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This superb chateau, in the process of being sold to a French industrialist, has made a tannic, long-aging 2005 with an IPT reading similar to that of the estate's massive 2003, but with a lower pH and equal potential longevity. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the 2005 vintage as "like 2004 but with more of everything." The young 2005 has puzzled many early tasters, as it's so fine-grained it feels almost weightless, and its density is not obvious. The wine was also quite youthfully austere in early April, conveying a strong impression of minerality.
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2004
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This chateau has been on a roll in the new millennium, and the 2004 is once again a superstar of the vintage. According to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, 2004 is a surprising vintage, in which "the maturity was made in September." He explained: "During the magnificent September, warm days and cool nights eliminated any possibility of rot. We feared dilution due to the big crop [57 hectoliters per hectare], but although the clusters were huge, the individual grapes were of a normal size. There was a lot of concentration of color and tannins. The wines are supple and fat, not austere, with the tannins more elegant than those of the 2002."
00
1999
2019 - 2029
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00
1995
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Interestingly, Jean-Louis Charmolüe did a shorter cuvaison in '95 than in '94 to preserve the freshness of the wine and to avoid getting astringent tannins. There was plenty of early extraction at warm temperatures. Charmolüe describes '94 as "classic, with firm tannins," while '95 saw riper fruit and more finesse. The cabernet franc in '95 ripened enough to contribute body, rather than merely elegance, to the wine. In comparison, the superripe '90 was "hors norme." I continue to like the '94 Montrose, but the '95 offers more texture and length. Chaptalization was about one degree in '95, vs. a degree and a half in '94. Incidentally, Montrose's second wine, La Dame de Montrose, is extremely appealing in both vintages, and is likely to offer good value.
00
1994
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Interestingly, Jean-Louis Charmolüe did a shorter cuvaison in '95 than in '94 to preserve the freshness of the wine and to avoid getting astringent tannins. There was plenty of early extraction at warm temperatures. Charmolüe describes '94 as "classic, with firm tannins," while '95 saw riper fruit and more finesse. The cabernet franc in '95 ripened enough to contribute body, rather than merely elegance, to the wine. In comparison, the superripe '90 was "hors norme." I continue to like the '94 Montrose, but the '95 offers more texture and length. Chaptalization was about one degree in '95, vs. a degree and a half in '94. Incidentally, Montrose's second wine, La Dame de Montrose, is extremely appealing in both vintages, and is likely to offer good value.
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