2008 Le Pergole Torte

Even after all these years, Montevertine remains a reference point in Chianti Classico. The young 2023s show the natural richness and volume of a year marked by a very hot summer. Conditions were more moderate in 2022. That comes through in wines that offer rich, layered fruit shaped by a warm, dry season tempered by a cool finish and a harvest that stretched into October. Readers will find a more classic Montevertine style in the 2022s, of course keeping in mind that is in today’s context, where the wines are much more approachable young than they once were. When I started tasting these wines in the 1990s, young vintages were hard as nails.

As a reminder, Pian del Ciampolo is the estate’s version of Chianti Classico. It is Sangiovese with a bit of Canaiolo and Colorino aged in cask. Montevertine is a more serious Sangiovese-based wine, also with Canaiolo and Colorino, from the estate’s younger vines and aged in cask. Pergole Torte is 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s oldest vineyards and top blocks that spends one year in French oak barrels and a second year in cask.

This year Montevertine is also releasing Il Duemileventuno di Sergio Manetti, a special bottling made to commemorate founder Sergio Manetti’s 100th birthday of that is a selection of Le Pergole Torte from the estate’s oldest vines planted 1968 and 1982 that spent two years in a single 16HL cask. When Sergio Manetti first conceived Le Pergole Torte, ripeness was hard to come by in Chianti Classico, especially in Radda. French oak helped give the wines some of the textural richness and depth that Mother Nature simply could not provide. Tasting this wine naturally begs the question as to whether French oak is truly necessary in Pergole Torte today given much warmer, drier growing seasons. These magnums will be quite expensive, but beyond that I wonder if this wine opens the door to a more contemporary style for Pergole Torte.

Martino Manetti presented some of the most intriguing 2021s and 2022s I tasted for this report. At this stage, the 2022s come across as more typical for the estate than the 2021s, which are decidedly potent wines. “We had more rain and more even maturation in 2021 than we did in 2022, where ripening took place later. In 2022, the warm, dry season delayed ripening. Harvest started on October 5, which is late by today’s standards,” Martino Manetti commented. “The challenge in 2021 was in taming the huge tannins,” added Paolo Salvi, the estate’s longtime consulting oenologist.

Even after all these years, Montevertine remains a reference point in Chianti Classico. The young 2023s show the natural richness and volume of a year marked by a very hot summer. Conditions were more moderate in 2022. That comes through in wines that offer rich, layered fruit shaped by a warm, dry season tempered by a cool finish and a harvest that stretched into October. Readers will find a more classic Montevertine style in the 2022s, of course keeping in mind that is in today’s context, where the wines are much more approachable young than they once were. When I started tasting these wines in the 1990s, young vintages were hard as nails.

As a reminder, Pian del Ciampolo is the estate’s version of Chianti Classico. It is Sangiovese with a bit of Canaiolo and Colorino aged in cask. Montevertine is a more serious Sangiovese-based wine, also with Canaiolo and Colorino, from the estate’s younger vines and aged in cask. Pergole Torte is 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s oldest vineyards and top blocks that spends one year in French oak barrels and a second year in cask.

This year Montevertine is also releasing Il Duemileventuno di Sergio Manetti, a special bottling made to commemorate founder Sergio Manetti’s 100th birthday of that is a selection of Le Pergole Torte from the estate’s oldest vines planted 1968 and 1982 that spent two years in a single 16HL cask. When Sergio Manetti first conceived Le Pergole Torte, ripeness was hard to come by in Chianti Classico, especially in Radda. French oak helped give the wines some of the textural richness and depth that Mother Nature simply could not provide. Tasting this wine naturally begs the question as to whether French oak is truly necessary in Pergole Torte today given much warmer, drier growing seasons. These magnums will be quite expensive, but beyond that I wonder if this wine opens the door to a more contemporary style for Pergole Torte.

Martino Manetti presented some of the most intriguing 2021s and 2022s I tasted for this report. At this stage, the 2022s come across as more typical for the estate than the 2021s, which are decidedly potent wines. “We had more rain and more even maturation in 2021 than we did in 2022, where ripening took place later. In 2022, the warm, dry season delayed ripening. Harvest started on October 5, which is late by today’s standards,” Martino Manetti commented. “The challenge in 2021 was in taming the huge tannins,” added Paolo Salvi, the estate’s longtime consulting oenologist.

Martino Manetti presented some of the most intriguing 2021s and 2022s I tasted for this report. At this stage, the 2022s come across as more typical for the estate than the 2021s, which are decidedly potent wines. “We had more rain and more even maturation in 2021 than we did in 2022, where ripening took place later. In 2022, the warm, dry season delayed ripening. Harvest started on October 5, which is late by today’s standards,” Martino Manetti commented. “The challenge in 2021 was in taming the huge tannins,” added Paolo Salvi, the estate’s longtime consulting oenologist.

Martino Manetti excelled in both 2020 and 2021. The 2020s are shaping up to be modern-day classics. They offer a stunning mix of precision and power, tempered by a more moderate growing season. The 2021s are a bit richer but also show tremendous harmony. I tasted all the 2021s from cask after a first blending of all the lots.

As has been the case for a number of years, I continue to be impressed by the Montevertine, a wine that sometimes gets less attention than the flagship Pergole Torte. This is the first year that benefits from the inclusion of a new vineyard at the other end of town that was previously leased by Istine. Not much has changed here in terms of winemaking. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in cement, using indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation follows, also in cement. The wines are racked off their lees and racked into oak in the early part of the following year. Montevertine spends two years in cask, whereas Pergole Torte sees a year in French oak barrique followed by a year in cask.

Martino Manetti excelled in both 2020 and 2021. The 2020s are shaping up to be modern-day classics. They offer a stunning mix of precision and power, tempered by a more moderate growing season. The 2021s are a bit richer but also show tremendous harmony. I tasted all the 2021s from cask after a first blending of all the lots.

As has been the case for a number of years, I continue to be impressed by the Montevertine, a wine that sometimes gets less attention than the flagship Pergole Torte. This is the first year that benefits from the inclusion of a new vineyard at the other end of town that was previously leased by Istine. Not much has changed here in terms of winemaking. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in cement, using indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation follows, also in cement. The wines are racked off their lees and racked into oak in the early part of the following year. Montevertine spends two years in cask, whereas Pergole Torte sees a year in French oak barrique followed by a year in cask.

Martino Manetti’s 2019s and 2020s are magnificent. The Montevertine, which has long lived in the shadows of Le Pergole Torte, is quite impressive in both vintages. Because Montevertine is aged exclusively in cask (while Pergole Torte sees a year of barrel and a year in cask), it exudes a feeling of classicism that is especially distinctive. In 2020, Montevertine includes a new parcel on the other side of Radda that seems to add greater richness and weight. Manetti describes 2019 as a year with a regular summer and no excesses. Harvest started on October 5 and lasted 15 days, while picking began about a week earlier in 2020. In tasting, the 2020s show more density and opulence than the 2019s, but both vintages are strong across the board.

Martino Manetti’s 2019s and 2020s are magnificent. The Montevertine, which has long lived in the shadows of Le Pergole Torte, is quite impressive in both vintages. Because Montevertine is aged exclusively in cask (while Pergole Torte sees a year of barrel and a year in cask), it exudes a feeling of classicism that is especially distinctive. In 2020, Montevertine includes a new parcel on the other side of Radda that seems to add greater richness and weight. Manetti describes 2019 as a year with a regular summer and no excesses. Harvest started on October 5 and lasted 15 days, while picking began about a week earlier in 2020. In tasting, the 2020s show more density and opulence than the 2019s, but both vintages are strong across the board.

Martino Manetti describes 2018 as a year that was not overly hot. Harvest took place from October 5-19. The key event in 2018 was a whopping 100mm of rain that fell in August, which shaped wines that are on the understated side, even by the house's historical standards. Manetti adds that 2019 was warmer than 2018 at Montevertine, showing how general trends with these two vintages don't always apply. As always, the wines are made in a pretty straightforward style. Primary and secondary fermentation are done in cement. Montevertine spends two years in cask, while Le Pergole Torte sees a year in French oak followed by a year in cask. These remain some of the most singular wines readers will come across in Chianti Classico, or anywhere, for that matter.

Martino Manetti describes 2018 as a year that was not overly hot. Harvest took place from October 5-19. The key event in 2018 was a whopping 100mm of rain that fell in August, which shaped wines that are on the understated side, even by the house's historical standards. Manetti adds that 2019 was warmer than 2018 at Montevertine, showing how general trends with these two vintages don't always apply. As always, the wines are made in a pretty straightforward style. Primary and secondary fermentation are done in cement. Montevertine spends two years in cask, while Le Pergole Torte sees a year in French oak followed by a year in cask. These remain some of the most singular wines readers will come across in Chianti Classico, or anywhere, for that matter.

These new releases from Montevertine are off the charts. The 2018 Pian del Ciampolo is a terrific start for readers who want to explore the personality and style of the year. It’s a gorgeous wine. Tasted a year later, Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte are dazzling. The wines are rich and expansive, but also retain their distinctive personalities. Montevertine is located in the hills outside Radda, a cool, late-ripening subzone in Chianti Classico where warm, dry conditions are less of an issue than they are elsewhere. I was deeply impressed by what I tasted.

Montevertine was one of the highlights of my visits this past summer. Martino Manetti is riding a string of very good to exceptional vintages. One recent development is the recent acquisition of 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Radda that replaces 2 hectares that were previously farmed under a lease that has now expired. As for the wines, well, they are positively thrilling. The 2017 growing season brought with it significant challenges. Frost on the lower hillsides, and therefore reduced yields in the field were compounded by grapes with very little juice for a net loss of 40% of the potential crop. Two thousandsixteen was a much more balanced and classic year. Harvest started on October 6, as opposed to September 25 in 2017 and produced some of the most viscerally thrilling, breathtaking wines I have ever tasted here, or anywhere, for that matter.

Montevertine was one of the highlights of my visits this past summer. Martino Manetti is riding a string of very good to exceptional vintages. One recent development is the recent acquisition of 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Radda that replaces 2 hectares that were previously farmed under a lease that has now expired. As for the wines, well, they are positively thrilling. The 2017 growing season brought with it significant challenges. Frost on the lower hillsides, and therefore reduced yields in the field were compounded by grapes with very little juice for a net loss of 40% of the potential crop. Two thousandsixteen was a much more balanced and classic year. Harvest started on October 6, as opposed to September 25 in 2017 and produced some of the most viscerally thrilling, breathtaking wines I have ever tasted here, or anywhere, for that matter.

I was quite taken with the wines I tasted at Montevertine this year. The 2014 Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte have turned out beautifully. Harvest took place between October 8 and 19, which is very late even by the standards of this traditionally late-ripening sector in Chianti Classico. The 2015 Pian del Ciampolo is one of many overachieving wines in this vintage, while the 2015 and 2016 Montevertine and Pergole Torte are wines that captivate all the senses with their sheer beauty and promise for the future.

I was quite taken with the wines I tasted at Montevertine this year. The 2014 Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte have turned out beautifully. Harvest took place between October 8 and 19, which is very late even by the standards of this traditionally late-ripening sector in Chianti Classico. The 2015 Pian del Ciampolo is one of many overachieving wines in this vintage, while the 2015 and 2016 Montevertine and Pergole Torte are wines that captivate all the senses with their sheer beauty and promise for the future.

I was quite taken with the wines I tasted at Montevertine this year. The 2014 Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte have turned out beautifully. Harvest took place between October 8 and 19, which is very late even by the standards of this traditionally late-ripening sector in Chianti Classico. The 2015 Pian del Ciampolo is one of many overachieving wines in this vintage, while the 2015 and 2016 Montevertine and Pergole Torte are wines that captivate all the senses with their sheer beauty and promise for the future.

Proprietor Martino Manetti continues to make reference point wines at Montevertine. The 2013 Montevertine and Pergole Torte were stunning when I tasted them a year ago. Now bottled, the wines are much less flattering. This is a vintage that will require considerable cellaring. For more perspective on Montevertine and how these wines age, readers may enjoy revisiting my vertical of the flagship Pergole Torte from last year.

Do you want the good news or the less than good news first? Starting with the positive, 2013 is shaping up to be a magnificent, perhaps even epic, vintage at Montevertine. The 2013s are sublime. Warm days and cool nights were ideal for the gradual ripening of Sangiovese that can produce truly magical wines at this small property in Radda. Vintage 2012 was another story entirely. Late season weather was hot, humid and damp. Far from ideal, to say the least. Rain during harvest was the proverbial nail in the coffin for what has turned out to be an average vintage at Montevertine. In response to the delicate grapes, proprietor Martino Manetti opted for shorter maceration times. Production is down, most notably for the Pergole Torte, where rigorous selection took with it 30% of the potential yield. Still, there is no denying that an average vintage at Montevertine is the equivalent of a top year at so many properties.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Do you want the good news or the less than good news first? Starting with the positive, 2013 is shaping up to be a magnificent, perhaps even epic, vintage at Montevertine. The 2013s are sublime. Warm days and cool nights were ideal for the gradual ripening of Sangiovese that can produce truly magical wines at this small property in Radda. Vintage 2012 was another story entirely. Late season weather was hot, humid and damp. Far from ideal, to say the least. Rain during harvest was the proverbial nail in the coffin for what has turned out to be an average vintage at Montevertine. In response to the delicate grapes, proprietor Martino Manetti opted for shorter maceration times. Production is down, most notably for the Pergole Torte, where rigorous selection took with it 30% of the potential yield. Still, there is no denying that an average vintage at Montevertine is the equivalent of a top year at so many properties.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Proprietor Martino Manetti made two gorgeous wines in 2011, a vintage he describes as the earliest on record at Montevertine. The harvest started on September 26, two full weeks ahead of schedule. In 2011, both Montevertine and Pergole Torte are unusually open and expressive, but also quite striking in their beauty. I also tasted the 2012s and 2013s from barrel. Right now, the 2013s are absolutely striking, while 2012 looks to be more of a middle of the road vintage for this reference-point, family owned estate in Radda.

When I was invited to join a Tuscan-themed dinner in the private room at 67 Pall Mall, I eagerly accepted. I wanted to reacquaint myself with its wines and placate my palate, which was protesting that it wanted to taste anything other than Cabernet or Pinot Noir. The bottles were deeply impressive and showcased Tuscany at its best.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Montevertine remains a reference-point estate not just for Tuscany or Italy, but among the world's great estates. The wines can be deceptive upon release, but they have a way of fleshing out beautifully with time. Longevity is rarely, if ever, an issue with these artisan, impeccably crafted wines. Proprietor Martino Manetti's 2010s are gracious, medium-bodied wines that will appeal most to classicists, and/or readers who many have found vintages such as 2007 and 2009 too ripe. My view is that over time, pretty much any wine made here is spectacular, a lesson I have learned many times. For more perspective, readers may enjoy this recent tasting of a few old wines and this vertical of the flagship Le Pergole Torte from our Archive.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Montevertine is one of the reference point producers in Tuscany for ageworthy, traditionally made wines. The estate's flagship, Le Pergole Torte, plays in the same league with the very finest wines in the world. Proprietor Martino Manetti describes 2010 as a year with constantly changing weather. An irregular flowering lowered yields. Rain interrupted the early part of the harvest before an Indian summer drenched with heat allowed the last phase of ripening to occur without further incident. In the warm 2009 vintage, these high- altitude, late-maturing vineyards got an extra shot of richness that filled out the wines without going to extremes. Readers may want to check out my vertical of the flagship Le Pergole Torte in this issue, as well as my video interview with Martino Manetti that is posted on our website.

Montevertine's two top 2008s are both solid, but not as differentiated as they are most years.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Readers should run, not walk, to taste these new releases from Montevertine.

This recent charity dinner at Saison was easily the finest meal I have had there and also one of my best dinners of 2018, period. The evening came together as a charity lot that was auctioned off at the most recent La Festa del Barolo to benefit children’s oncology at The Mount Sinai Hospital. Saison donated dinner and I contributed the wines from my cellar. It was a spectacular night of food, wine and conversation, all for a great cause.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

I was blown away by the two wines I tasted from Montevertine and proprietor Martino Manetti. These high altitude vineyards in Radda seem to have benefitted from the heat of 2006, and the results are striking. The 2006 Montevertine and Pergole Torte are even better than they were last year when I tasted them from cask. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2007 Pian del Ciampolo, which had not been bottled as we went to press, but I will post a note on that wine as soon as I have an opportunity to taste it. Readers who have visited the property know Montevertine is a tiny estate and the cramped quarters result in multiple bottlings of the wines. I have included lot numbers of the wines I tasted for ease of reference.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Readers looking for delicate, perfumed Sangiovese and Sangiovese- based wines need look no further than Montevertine. The estate is located in Radda, one of the cooler, fresher micro-climates in Tuscany. The wines have always required bottle age to develop, yet these are wines that showcase an aromatic side of Sangiovese that shares much in common with Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, rather than the more overt fruit-driven wines that are made elsewhere. Readers who have visited the property know the facilities are cramped. As a result of space constraints all the wines see multiple bottlings and small variations are therefore possible.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Young Martino Manetti is following in the very big footsteps of his father, not an easy undertaking as Sergio Manetti was a larger-than-life Tuscan winemaking icon and one of the most important names in Italy's winemaking history. Montevertine was one of the first estates to eschew the Chianti name, opting to make Super-Tuscan wines instead: Sergio was fiercely opposed to using white grapes in his wine and basically never did, even when they were still labelled Chianti. The estate's Montevertine Rosso is as good as any Chianti and their Le Pergole Torte Super-Tuscan is an ode to rustic, traditionally made sangiovese at its best. All those who insist that temperature control is an absolute necessity to make world-class wines ought to come and take a look here.

This small estate is located in Radda, one of the cooler micro-zones in Chianti Classico owing to the relatively high altitude of its vineyards. The late Sergio Manetti was a pioneer in Chianti Classico. He pushed for the elimination of white grapes that had been traditionally used to make Chianti Classico with the goal of elevating the wines to a higher level. Manetti's vision led him to make a 100% Sangiovese, but that wine was rejected by the Chianti Classico Consortium as it did not adhere to the definition of the wine that was required at the time. Frustrated by his efforts, and already experiencing considerable success with his wines, Manetti left the Chianti Consortium in 1981. Today Manetti's son Martino continues his father's work with the same dedication and passion. Ironically, today all of the estate's wines would qualify for the Chianti Classico designation but Manetti prefers to stay the more individualistic course his father first charted decades ago. From his tiny cellar Manetti crafts delicate, understated wines that are among the finest in the region. Like all of the top Sangiovese-based wines, Montevertine and Le Pergole Torte can be enjoyable relatively young, but will only reveal their full potential after a minimum of several years of bottle age. Le Pergole Torte in particular has proven to be especially ageworthy. This is a beautiful set of releases from Montevertine.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years

Although there are many pedigreed wines in the world, some rise above that level and move into the stratosphere of the truly iconic. Montevertine’s Le Pergole Torte is one of those wines because it weaves together so many strands of history and culture. Le Pergole Torte is a wine of tradition and innovation. It is a wine that speaks to the potential of Sangiovese and the unique attributes of Radda. But above all else, Pergole Torte is a reflection of its creator. The late Sergio Manetti was an industrialist, an intellectual and a man of deep culture. His spirit permeates through these wines.

In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out – Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines.

Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when proprietor Sergio Manetti first conceived it in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him.

One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single- vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. For more on Montevertine, readers might enjoy taking a look at this video interview with Martino Manetti.

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points:

1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards

2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask

3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese

4. Aging potential: 30+ years