2020 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion
France
Pessac Léognan, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
55.5% Merlot, 40.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.6% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
00
2020
2025 - 2035
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00
2023
2026 - 2045
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There is plenty to like in the 2023 reds from both La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion. “It is the second most tannic year here, after only 2010,” Deputy Managing Director Jean-Philippe Delmas told me. That seems to be especially evident at La Mission, where the reds have a feeling of edginess in the tannins. Readers should also note that all the whites are Sauvignon Blanc--driven, as Sémillon was picked in the middle of a heat wave.
00
2023
2027 - 2039
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Jean-Philippe Delmas ushered me to a private room for a tasting of their 2023s, although I did not taste Quintus. “We are moving towards more elegance,” he told me when I asked whether he is changing the winemaking. “The temperature for the alcoholic fermentation is now 27°C. We just did a green harvest for the Merlot that was also saignée [bleeding of the vats] as the yields were a little high. There is 14.5% alcohol for the Grand Vin with a pH of 3.7, a little lower than last year, and there is the highest IPT for Haut-Brion since 2010. The 2023 has the freshness of the 2021 but with more concentration.” As my tasting notes state, I thought there was a tangible gap between the La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion this vintage, but readers should be aware that this can always be closed as the wines mature. It will be interesting to observe their progress.
00
2022
2027 - 2047
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2022
2026 - 2034
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2022
2028 - 2042
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My tasting with Jean-Philippe Delmas was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Bordeaux for this report. The 2022 reds at Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion are rich, heady wines. Yields were 35 hectoliters per hectare at Haut-Brion and just 28 at La Mission Haut-Brion, the lowest at La Mission since 1991. I found all four reds compelling. The whites, from the earliest harvest since 2003, are also terrific, even if they don't quite reach the level of the reds.
00
2022
2027 - 2047
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00
2021
2026 - 2036
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00
2021
2025 - 2033
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00
2021
2025 - 2033
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There’s a ton to like in the 2021s from Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. The reds show off the gracious side of the vintage to great effect, with lifted aromatics, silky textures and primary fruit at this early stage. It’s a terrific vintage for the whites as well, all of which are the same 55% Sémillon/45% Sauvignon Blanc blend. “Back in the 1990s, harvest dates were chosen for us by deteriorating conditions at the end of harvest. Rain and the risk of rot essentially dictated when fruit had to come in,” Managing Director Jean-Philippe Delmas told me. “In the 2000s, with climate change, we were forced to the other extreme, that is to say picking earlier and earlier to avoid losing acidity and bringing in overripe grapes. Two thousand twenty-one was a very rare vintage in which we could harvest when we wanted to, with no pressure whatsoever.”
00
2021
2026 - 2036
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What I find fascinating is the diversification on approaches between Jean-Philippe Delmas at Domaine Clarence Dillon’s two estates, and that of Les Carmes Haut-Brion. It’s worth reading and juxtaposing both to see how their tenets are at times almost diametrically opposed. “We had little frost, so yields are normal for both La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion at 47 to 48hL/ha. We are not organic, and so in this kind of vintage with a lot of rain, almost every day in June, using conventional treatments means you did not lose a large part of the crop. The key is to spray at the right moment before the arrival of mildew. We did some green harvesting for the Merlot and bled the Merlot vats by 10%. For the 50% of Cabernet Sauvignon, we chaptalised by around 0.5%. The season did not favour one particular variety, but we did have beautiful vats of Cabernet Franc, 12% of the blend in the Haut-Brion. We started picking the white on 3 September and finished 13 September, the reds picked from 13 September until 8 October, almost a month to obtain the optimal ripeness for each parcel. Each plot is different, so you have to manage each one of them like its own estate. You had to be patient. For the whites, for the first time in many years, we started exactly when we wanted without any pressures.”
00
2020
2028 - 2060
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00
2020
2024 - 2040
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00
2020
2024 - 2040
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00
2019
2024 - 2040
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2019
2027 - 2039
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00
2019
2024 - 2038
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00
2019
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2018
2022 - 2036
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2018
2025 - 2038
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2018
2022 - 2036
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2018
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“We have become used to seeing warm summers here,” Managing Director Jean-Philippe Delmas told me at Haut-Brion. “Even so, 2018 was the hottest summer we have ever seen, even hotter than 2003 or 2010. Fortunately, we had cool nights, which helped.” I found the wines from La Mission Haut-Brion a bit light, while Haut-Brion is unusually soft and lacking its characteristic aromatic intensity. It will be interesting to see what élevage brings to the wines of both properties.
00
2017
2020 - 2027
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2017
2021 - 2032
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2017
2021 - 2030
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This was the first year in a long time that I did not have to suffer the gridlock on my way into the city of Bordeaux to visit Haut-Brion. Jean-Philippe Delmas, self-effacing and affable as ever, showed me through the latest vintage of whites and reds that span Bordeaux AC up to First Growth. The city suburbs afford Delmas’ vines a slightly warmer microclimate that essentially threw over a protective cloak when frost threatened. “The vines started [their maturation cycle] in mid-March, we had a very warm and dry April causing acceleration in growth. The flowering, véraison and so forth were all two weeks in advance. We started the harvest quite early on 21 August for the whites. Because of the rain in the second week of September, 70mm from 8 to 17 September to be exact, it was the longest harvest for the reds, lasting from 31 August to 29 September, the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked from 21 September. The rain came at a bad moment for the Cabernet Franc and so we put in the garbage. Overall we had 20% less rain than usual and during July and August, 50% less. The huge storm in June gave us reserves for the summer. We had low levels of sun in July with few days without cloud.” Jean-Philippe Delmas told me that his team were obliged to do less sorting than in 2016 and that he is also practicing less green harvesting in order to keep a lid on alcohol levels, which have been comparatively high in recent vintages. Asked if the 2017s remind him of any other vintage, interestingly he answered “2001”.
00
2017
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00
2016
2022 - 2038
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2016
2022 - 2038
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2016
2020 - 2028
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2016
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I stopped by Haut-Brion twice, once on the first day of my trip and again on the last day. The wines presented by deputy managing director Jean-Philippe Delmas and technical director Jean-Philippe Masclef were brilliant across the board. As is the case throughout Bordeaux, 2016 favors reds over whites. For the whites at both La Mission and Haut-Brion, Delmas and Masclef opted to keep the best Sauvignon Blancs for the Grands Vins, while most of the Sémillon, a grape that was more challenged by the weather, went into the La Clarté de Haut-Brion.
00
2015
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2015
2020 - 2035
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2015
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2014
2024 - 2040
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2014
2020 - 2035
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2014
2020 - 2034
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This is a stellar set of wines from Haut-Brion. It's as simple as that. The reds are powerful and intense, with the interplay of ripeness and freshness that is the signature of the very finest 2014s. I was equally impressed with the whites. Whereas many 2014s are a bit flabby, both Haut-Brion whites have preserved considerable freshness.
00
2014
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If I had to pick one highlight from the two weeks I spent in Bordeaux, it might very well be Haut-Brion, where I tasted a number of dazzling wines from Haut-Brion and sister property La Mission Haut-Brion. In talking about the 2014s, General Manager Jean-Philippe Delmas draws comparisons with 1988 and 1978, both vintages with considerable freshness. Delmas goes on to explain that the 2014s have pHs that are in line with the 2010s, although the acidities are a bit lower. The Haut-Brion and La Mission wines are among the richest I tasted this April, the result of a warm Indian summer that concentrated the grapes during the last phase of ripening. The whites and reds at both properties are all above 14% in alcohol, with some wines approaching 15%, but none of the wines feel at all heavy. To the contrary, 2014 is a magical vintage at both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion.
00
2013
2023 - 2028
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2013
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I tasted a wide range of wines with Deputy Managing Director Jean-Phillippe Delmas and CEO Prince Robert de Luxembourg during my visit to Haut-Brion, including the 2000 La Mission and Haut-Brion, both of which remain infants. The wines are hugely successful at both Pessac estates. The dual flagships La Mission and Haut-Brion are among the most expressive, intense reds of the year, while their siblings, the La Mission Blanc and Haut-Brion Blanc are even more compelling given climactic conditions that favored whites over reds.
00
2012
2022 - 2032
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2012
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2012
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2011
2022 - 2032
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2011
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2011
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2010
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2010
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2009
2022 - 2038
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2009
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2009
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2008
2018 - 2030
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00
2007
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The harvest at Haut-Brion and La Mission began early by 2007 standards but lasted longer than usual, according to Jean-Philippe Delmas: from September 13 through October 5 for the red grapes. The merlot was finished by September 25, but at that point the cabernet sauvignon was not yet sufficiently ripe, added Delmas, who told me that the 2007 merlot does not have the "genie" (genius, or spirit) of recent years. His explanation: the merlot was further along in its evolution by late August and thus was more affected by the substantial rainfall at the end of that month. Among the standouts of my annual tasting here-an event that never fails to turn up riches-were the two splendid 2007 white wines, the 2006 La Mission and the 2005 Haut-Brion.
00
2006
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The harvest at Haut-Brion and La Mission began early by 2007 standards but lasted longer than usual, according to Jean-Philippe Delmas: from September 13 through October 5 for the red grapes. The merlot was finished by September 25, but at that point the cabernet sauvignon was not yet sufficiently ripe, added Delmas, who told me that the 2007 merlot does not have the "genie" (genius, or spirit) of recent years. His explanation: the merlot was further along in its evolution by late August and thus was more affected by the substantial rainfall at the end of that month. Among the standouts of my annual tasting here-an event that never fails to turn up riches-were the two splendid 2007 white wines, the 2006 La Mission and the 2005 Haut-Brion.
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