2014 Haut-Brion Blanc
France
Pessac Léognan, Graves
Bordeaux
White
58.1% Sauvignon Blanc, 41.9% Sémillon (2023 vintage)
00
2014
2018 - 2034
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This is a stellar set of wines from Haut-Brion. It's as simple as that. The reds are powerful and intense, with the interplay of ripeness and freshness that is the signature of the very finest 2014s. I was equally impressed with the whites. Whereas many 2014s are a bit flabby, both Haut-Brion whites have preserved considerable freshness.
00
2023
2028 - 2043
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There is plenty to like in the 2023 reds from both La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion. “It is the second most tannic year here, after only 2010,” Deputy Managing Director Jean-Philippe Delmas told me. That seems to be especially evident at La Mission, where the reds have a feeling of edginess in the tannins. Readers should also note that all the whites are Sauvignon Blanc--driven, as Sémillon was picked in the middle of a heat wave.
00
2023
2028 - 2055
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Jean-Philippe Delmas ushered me to a private room for a tasting of their 2023s, although I did not taste Quintus. “We are moving towards more elegance,” he told me when I asked whether he is changing the winemaking. “The temperature for the alcoholic fermentation is now 27°C. We just did a green harvest for the Merlot that was also saignée [bleeding of the vats] as the yields were a little high. There is 14.5% alcohol for the Grand Vin with a pH of 3.7, a little lower than last year, and there is the highest IPT for Haut-Brion since 2010. The 2023 has the freshness of the 2021 but with more concentration.” As my tasting notes state, I thought there was a tangible gap between the La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion this vintage, but readers should be aware that this can always be closed as the wines mature. It will be interesting to observe their progress.
00
2022
2028 - 2050
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00
2022
2026 - 2037
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00
2022
2028 - 2042
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My tasting with Jean-Philippe Delmas was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Bordeaux for this report. The 2022 reds at Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion are rich, heady wines. Yields were 35 hectoliters per hectare at Haut-Brion and just 28 at La Mission Haut-Brion, the lowest at La Mission since 1991. I found all four reds compelling. The whites, from the earliest harvest since 2003, are also terrific, even if they don't quite reach the level of the reds.
00
2022
2028 - 2050
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00
2021
2030 - 2060
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00
2021
2026 - 2041
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00
2021
2026 - 2041
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There’s a ton to like in the 2021s from Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. The reds show off the gracious side of the vintage to great effect, with lifted aromatics, silky textures and primary fruit at this early stage. It’s a terrific vintage for the whites as well, all of which are the same 55% Sémillon/45% Sauvignon Blanc blend. “Back in the 1990s, harvest dates were chosen for us by deteriorating conditions at the end of harvest. Rain and the risk of rot essentially dictated when fruit had to come in,” Managing Director Jean-Philippe Delmas told me. “In the 2000s, with climate change, we were forced to the other extreme, that is to say picking earlier and earlier to avoid losing acidity and bringing in overripe grapes. Two thousand twenty-one was a very rare vintage in which we could harvest when we wanted to, with no pressure whatsoever.”
00
2021
2030 - 2060
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What I find fascinating is the diversification on approaches between Jean-Philippe Delmas at Domaine Clarence Dillon’s two estates, and that of Les Carmes Haut-Brion. It’s worth reading and juxtaposing both to see how their tenets are at times almost diametrically opposed. “We had little frost, so yields are normal for both La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion at 47 to 48hL/ha. We are not organic, and so in this kind of vintage with a lot of rain, almost every day in June, using conventional treatments means you did not lose a large part of the crop. The key is to spray at the right moment before the arrival of mildew. We did some green harvesting for the Merlot and bled the Merlot vats by 10%. For the 50% of Cabernet Sauvignon, we chaptalised by around 0.5%. The season did not favour one particular variety, but we did have beautiful vats of Cabernet Franc, 12% of the blend in the Haut-Brion. We started picking the white on 3 September and finished 13 September, the reds picked from 13 September until 8 October, almost a month to obtain the optimal ripeness for each parcel. Each plot is different, so you have to manage each one of them like its own estate. You had to be patient. For the whites, for the first time in many years, we started exactly when we wanted without any pressures.”
00
2020
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00
2020
2025 - 2055
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00
2020
2025 - 2050
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2020
2025 - 2055
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00
2019
2025 - 2060
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00
2019
2024 - 2048
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00
2019
2025 - 2039
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00
2019
2024 - 2039
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00
2019
2030 - 2075
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00
2018
2023 - 2038
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00
2018
2022 - 2040
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00
2018
2022 - 2040
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00
2018
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“We have become used to seeing warm summers here,” Managing Director Jean-Philippe Delmas told me at Haut-Brion. “Even so, 2018 was the hottest summer we have ever seen, even hotter than 2003 or 2010. Fortunately, we had cool nights, which helped.” I found the wines from La Mission Haut-Brion a bit light, while Haut-Brion is unusually soft and lacking its characteristic aromatic intensity. It will be interesting to see what élevage brings to the wines of both properties.
00
2017
2025 - 2055
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2017
2020 - 2030
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
00
2017
2021 - 2050
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00
2017
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00
2017
2020 - 2045
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This was the first year in a long time that I did not have to suffer the gridlock on my way into the city of Bordeaux to visit Haut-Brion. Jean-Philippe Delmas, self-effacing and affable as ever, showed me through the latest vintage of whites and reds that span Bordeaux AC up to First Growth. The city suburbs afford Delmas’ vines a slightly warmer microclimate that essentially threw over a protective cloak when frost threatened. “The vines started [their maturation cycle] in mid-March, we had a very warm and dry April causing acceleration in growth. The flowering, véraison and so forth were all two weeks in advance. We started the harvest quite early on 21 August for the whites. Because of the rain in the second week of September, 70mm from 8 to 17 September to be exact, it was the longest harvest for the reds, lasting from 31 August to 29 September, the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked from 21 September. The rain came at a bad moment for the Cabernet Franc and so we put in the garbage. Overall we had 20% less rain than usual and during July and August, 50% less. The huge storm in June gave us reserves for the summer. We had low levels of sun in July with few days without cloud.” Jean-Philippe Delmas told me that his team were obliged to do less sorting than in 2016 and that he is also practicing less green harvesting in order to keep a lid on alcohol levels, which have been comparatively high in recent vintages. Asked if the 2017s remind him of any other vintage, interestingly he answered “2001”.
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2016
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2016
2021 - 2036
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2016
2021 - 2045
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2016
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I stopped by Haut-Brion twice, once on the first day of my trip and again on the last day. The wines presented by deputy managing director Jean-Philippe Delmas and technical director Jean-Philippe Masclef were brilliant across the board. As is the case throughout Bordeaux, 2016 favors reds over whites. For the whites at both La Mission and Haut-Brion, Delmas and Masclef opted to keep the best Sauvignon Blancs for the Grands Vins, while most of the Sémillon, a grape that was more challenged by the weather, went into the La Clarté de Haut-Brion.
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2015
2021 - 2040
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2015
2020 - 2050
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2015
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2014
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2014
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If I had to pick one highlight from the two weeks I spent in Bordeaux, it might very well be Haut-Brion, where I tasted a number of dazzling wines from Haut-Brion and sister property La Mission Haut-Brion. In talking about the 2014s, General Manager Jean-Philippe Delmas draws comparisons with 1988 and 1978, both vintages with considerable freshness. Delmas goes on to explain that the 2014s have pHs that are in line with the 2010s, although the acidities are a bit lower. The Haut-Brion and La Mission wines are among the richest I tasted this April, the result of a warm Indian summer that concentrated the grapes during the last phase of ripening. The whites and reds at both properties are all above 14% in alcohol, with some wines approaching 15%, but none of the wines feel at all heavy. To the contrary, 2014 is a magical vintage at both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion.
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2013
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2013
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I tasted a wide range of wines with Deputy Managing Director Jean-Phillippe Delmas and CEO Prince Robert de Luxembourg during my visit to Haut-Brion, including the 2000 La Mission and Haut-Brion, both of which remain infants. The wines are hugely successful at both Pessac estates. The dual flagships La Mission and Haut-Brion are among the most expressive, intense reds of the year, while their siblings, the La Mission Blanc and Haut-Brion Blanc are even more compelling given climactic conditions that favored whites over reds.
00
2012
2018 - 2032
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2011
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2010
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2009
2018 - 2038
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2008
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2007
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2007
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2006
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2006
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2005
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2005
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2004
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00
2004
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Based on the high quality of the 2004s I tasted during my early morning visit to Haut-Brion and the mixed quality of much of the rest of the Graves appellation, it's difficult to avoid the conclusion that the area of Pessac was more successful than the Bordeaux suburbs around Leognan. Haut-Brion's various red grapes were all harvested between September 16 and October 6, enjoying extremely favorable weather conditions (the white grapes were picked from September 6 through 20). The fruit was very ripe and high in tannins, and the team accordingly carried out shorter macerations than usual, with fewer pumpovers. The pHs, noted enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet, were virtually as high as those of the previous year, but the wines are fresher than the analysis suggests, with the tannins supplying the structure.
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2003
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Based on the high quality of the 2004s I tasted during my early morning visit to Haut-Brion and the mixed quality of much of the rest of the Graves appellation, it's difficult to avoid the conclusion that the area of Pessac was more successful than the Bordeaux suburbs around Leognan. Haut-Brion's various red grapes were all harvested between September 16 and October 6, enjoying extremely favorable weather conditions (the white grapes were picked from September 6 through 20). The fruit was very ripe and high in tannins, and the team accordingly carried out shorter macerations than usual, with fewer pumpovers. The pHs, noted enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet, were virtually as high as those of the previous year, but the wines are fresher than the analysis suggests, with the tannins supplying the structure.
00
2003
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In the historic harvest of 2003, Haut-Brion began harvesting its white grapes on August 13. But in this very warm microclimate within the city of Bordeaux, even the merlot harvest began on August 25, and all the cabernet was in by September 15. While tannin levels and alcohols are high (about 13% for both Haut-Brion and La Mission), the pHs are hardly excessive; enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet noted that the vines did not really suffer from drought. The 1990 Haut-Brion, he pointed out, was more cooked in comparison to the 2003. Interestingly, the estate is high on the quality of its merlot in 2003; due to some coulure and the very small size of the grapes, the merlot yield was just 36 hectoliters per hectare. The young Haut-Brion, with a relatively high 58% merlot, boasts a thickness that reminded me of the extraordinary '89.
00
2002
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In the historic harvest of 2003, Haut-Brion began harvesting its white grapes on August 13. But in this very warm microclimate within the city of Bordeaux, even the merlot harvest began on August 25, and all the cabernet was in by September 15. While tannin levels and alcohols are high (about 13% for both Haut-Brion and La Mission), the pHs are hardly excessive; enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet noted that the vines did not really suffer from drought. The 1990 Haut-Brion, he pointed out, was more cooked in comparison to the 2003. Interestingly, the estate is high on the quality of its merlot in 2003; due to some coulure and the very small size of the grapes, the merlot yield was just 36 hectoliters per hectare. The young Haut-Brion, with a relatively high 58% merlot, boasts a thickness that reminded me of the extraordinary '89.
00
2002
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Thanks to its earlier-ripening site inside the city limits of Bordeaux, Haut-Brion enjoyed a somewhat more drawn-out harvest than most other chateaux in 2002, beginning to pick merlot on September 19 and finishing the cabernet on October 8. Acid levels were a bit high but the tannins were noble and ripe, reported enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet. In fact, the merlot was even higher in acidity than the estate's cabernet, noted Masclet, due in part to a higher percentage of millerande grapes.
00
2001
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Thanks to its earlier-ripening site inside the city limits of Bordeaux, Haut-Brion enjoyed a somewhat more drawn-out harvest than most other chateaux in 2002, beginning to pick merlot on September 19 and finishing the cabernet on October 8. Acid levels were a bit high but the tannins were noble and ripe, reported enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet. In fact, the merlot was even higher in acidity than the estate's cabernet, noted Masclet, due in part to a higher percentage of millerande grapes.
00
2001
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Haut-Brion did a softer, shorter vinification for its cabernet sauvignon but, according to Jean-Philippe Delmas, the estate was able to do more extraction for the relatively strong merlot component. The level of polyphenols, a good measure of quality, was lower in 2001 than in the previous year.
00
2000
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Haut-Brion did a softer, shorter vinification for its cabernet sauvignon but, according to Jean-Philippe Delmas, the estate was able to do more extraction for the relatively strong merlot component. The level of polyphenols, a good measure of quality, was lower in 2001 than in the previous year.
00
2000
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Enologist and chef de culture Jean-Philippe Masclet compares the 2000 Haut-Brion to the 1990. "But the 2000 is fresher, like '98, while the '00 is more surmuri Still, the 2000 has the tannic sweetness of a vin du soleil." The millennial vintage featured superripe merlot with grape sugars in the 13.5%-14% range; the cabernet sauvignon averaged 12.5%, which Masclef told me was the highest ever for Haut-Brion. While the 2000 is a wine of obvious power, Haut-Brion is always difficult to taste at this early stage, and it is not yet apparent to this taster that the new vintage will surpass this estate compelling '98. Masclet agreed that they seem more or less equal in quality, but said he preferred the 2000 La Mission to the '98.
00
1999
2018 - 2038
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00
1999
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Enologist and chef de culture Jean-Philippe Masclet compares the 2000 Haut-Brion to the 1990. "But the 2000 is fresher, like '98, while the '00 is more surmuri Still, the 2000 has the tannic sweetness of a vin du soleil." The millennial vintage featured superripe merlot with grape sugars in the 13.5%-14% range; the cabernet sauvignon averaged 12.5%, which Masclef told me was the highest ever for Haut-Brion. While the 2000 is a wine of obvious power, Haut-Brion is always difficult to taste at this early stage, and it is not yet apparent to this taster that the new vintage will surpass this estate compelling '98. Masclet agreed that they seem more or less equal in quality, but said he preferred the 2000 La Mission to the '98.
00
1999
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Haut-Brion had harvested all of its merlot and cabernet franc before September 18 and 19, when four inches of rain fell on their vineyards. The cabernet sauvignon harvest then took place quickly, finishing on September 24, "but we certainly could have used a few more days of sun for maximum ripeness," notes Jean-Philippe Delmas. Still, he adds, there are no hints of verdure in the '99s. The winemaking team did a shorter cuvaison, in the belief that the riper grapes did not require as much extraction of color and tannins. The white wines of '99 are noteworthy for their extremely ripe sauvignon (even if the Laville Haut-Brion contains just 20% of this variety).
00
1998
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Haut-Brion had harvested all of its merlot and cabernet franc before September 18 and 19, when four inches of rain fell on their vineyards. The cabernet sauvignon harvest then took place quickly, finishing on September 24, "but we certainly could have used a few more days of sun for maximum ripeness," notes Jean-Philippe Delmas. Still, he adds, there are no hints of verdure in the '99s. The winemaking team did a shorter cuvaison, in the belief that the riper grapes did not require as much extraction of color and tannins. The white wines of '99 are noteworthy for their extremely ripe sauvignon (even if the Laville Haut-Brion contains just 20% of this variety).
00
1998
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The team at Haut Brion considers 1998 to be the most promising vintage here for red wine since 1990. Key statistics were similar to those for the exceptional '89s made here. The harvest of red varieties took place during the second half of September and was finished before the damaging October 1 rainstorm. The pH of the vintage was sound, says technical manager Jean-Philippe Masclet, and acidity levels were higher than average, giving the wines very good balance and grip. Polyphenol levels were markedly higher than those of 1996, but the tannins are ripe. The '98 grands vins have a bit more merlot than normal, while the second wines Bahans Haut Brion and Chapelle Haut Brion have a slightly higher percentage of cabernet. A bit of saignee was carried out for the cabernet franc used in Haut Brion and La Mission, but no other techniques were used to concentrate the juice.
00
1997
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The team at Haut Brion considers 1998 to be the most promising vintage here for red wine since 1990. Key statistics were similar to those for the exceptional '89s made here. The harvest of red varieties took place during the second half of September and was finished before the damaging October 1 rainstorm. The pH of the vintage was sound, says technical manager Jean-Philippe Masclet, and acidity levels were higher than average, giving the wines very good balance and grip. Polyphenol levels were markedly higher than those of 1996, but the tannins are ripe. The '98 grands vins have a bit more merlot than normal, while the second wines Bahans Haut Brion and Chapelle Haut Brion have a slightly higher percentage of cabernet. A bit of saignee was carried out for the cabernet franc used in Haut Brion and La Mission, but no other techniques were used to concentrate the juice.
00
1997
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Jean-Philippe Delmas explained the uneven ripening that characterized the 1997 growing season as follows: "In winter we had spring, in spring we had summer, in summer we had winter, and in fall we had summer." The harvest actually began on August 18 for the white wines, and September 3 for the reds. The Graves received substantially less rainfall during the final third of August than did most of the right bank. Less than 50% of the crop went into the grand vin for both Haut Brion and La Mission, compared to two-thirds in 1996. Incidentally, Delmas prefers the '95 vintage to '96, "for its finesse and charm."
00
1996
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The team at Haut Brion considers 1998 to be the most promising vintage here for red wine since 1990. Key statistics were similar to those for the exceptional '89s made here. The harvest of red varieties took place during the second half of September and was finished before the damaging October 1 rainstorm. The pH of the vintage was sound, says technical manager Jean-Philippe Masclet, and acidity levels were higher than average, giving the wines very good balance and grip. Polyphenol levels were markedly higher than those of 1996, but the tannins are ripe. The '98 grands vins have a bit more merlot than normal, while the second wines Bahans Haut Brion and Chapelle Haut Brion have a slightly higher percentage of cabernet. A bit of saignee was carried out for the cabernet franc used in Haut Brion and La Mission, but no other techniques were used to concentrate the juice.
00
1996
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Jean-Philippe Delmas explained the uneven ripening that characterized the 1997 growing season as follows: "In winter we had spring, in spring we had summer, in summer we had winter, and in fall we had summer." The harvest actually began on August 18 for the white wines, and September 3 for the reds. The Graves received substantially less rainfall during the final third of August than did most of the right bank. Less than 50% of the crop went into the grand vin for both Haut Brion and La Mission, compared to two-thirds in 1996. Incidentally, Delmas prefers the '95 vintage to '96, "for its finesse and charm."
00
1995
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Jean-Philippe Delmas explained the uneven ripening that characterized the 1997 growing season as follows: "In winter we had spring, in spring we had summer, in summer we had winter, and in fall we had summer." The harvest actually began on August 18 for the white wines, and September 3 for the reds. The Graves received substantially less rainfall during the final third of August than did most of the right bank. Less than 50% of the crop went into the grand vin for both Haut Brion and La Mission, compared to two-thirds in 1996. Incidentally, Delmas prefers the '95 vintage to '96, "for its finesse and charm."
00
1995
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The very strong 1994 vintage here was a hard act to follow, and the summer drought of '95 didn't make things any easier for Haut-Brion and La Mission. As I tasted through these two groups of wines, I sensed lower levels of extract, and fruit that struggled to ripen thoroughly. In fact, the merlot harvest in these vines did not begin until September 21—quite a contrast to '94, when much of the merlot was picked in early September, before the damaging rains. The '95s here are very good, whereas the '94s, white as well as red, are special.
00
1994
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The very strong 1994 vintage here was a hard act to follow, and the summer drought of '95 didn't make things any easier for Haut-Brion and La Mission. As I tasted through these two groups of wines, I sensed lower levels of extract, and fruit that struggled to ripen thoroughly. In fact, the merlot harvest in these vines did not begin until September 21—quite a contrast to '94, when much of the merlot was picked in early September, before the damaging rains. The '95s here are very good, whereas the '94s, white as well as red, are special.
00
1992
2018 - 2030
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00
1988
2018 - 2030
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00
1987
2018 - 2022
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00
1985
2018 - 2040
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00
1964
2018 - 2022
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