1996 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
France
Corton Charlemagne
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay (2022 vintage)
00
1996
2016 - 2021
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The private dining room of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko was the site of this recent birthday dinner. The food and wine were both terrific, but as always, it’s the people who make an event special. Over the years, this group has tasted some pretty special wines together. That was once again the case on this night. Sommeliers John Slover and Chase Sinzers did a fabulous job keeping up with the pace and ensuring each wine was served at the optimal temperature.
00
2022
2030 - 2058
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Raphael Coche greeted me at the winery just outside Meursault village. Before tasting his 2022s (since, like Olivier Lamy and Domaine Leflaive, they no longer show the wines in barrel), we ventured out into the vines for a brief inspection of his cover crops. As you might expect, Coche is fastidious about which cover crops he uses. He has a machine that “shoots” the seeds exactly 60 mm into the earth, a mixture of different sized bulbs, to make sure that the pedicule can take leaf over the surface. They intentionally use cover crops that do not grow too high, mainly types of edible salad. Coche was his usual voluble self, ever the contrarian on subjects surrounding Burgundy. “The 2022 vintage was very sunny and dry,” Coche explains. “We saw a little hydric stress, but rainfall at the end of July regenerated the vines. There were two bands of rainfall, the first covering more of the surface, but the second penetrated the soil. I was a bit worried in July. I started picking on August 25. The wines retain the freshness for both white and red, which are quite tannic.” Coche-Dury’s whites are exceptional, which is not unexpected. Shrugging off the warmth of the season, with exquisite texture and nuance, they reach their zenith perhaps not with the lauded Corton-Charlemagne, but the dazzling Meursault Perrières. Amongst the reds, I was particularly taken with their Volnay Premier Cru that displayed a little more Pinoté than their other cuvées.
00
2021
2030 - 2055
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Raphael Coche was in loquacious form as ever, not only discussing the 2021 vintage that was under the spotlight but anything that popped into his mind. (The domaine ceased tastings from barrel several years ago). Coche is always entertaining, opinionated, and informative. Amongst the topics discussed were viticultural practices and the appalling state of Corton-Charlemagne that took the brunt of the wayward growing season, resulting in just one-third of the crop, indeed, depleted yields across the board, averaging around 70% less than a normal crop. He proactively distributed candles across as many of his prime vineyards as possible, crucially positioning them at the right time to avoid damage in the early morning. In areas he could not protect, yields plummeted to single figures per hectare. His half-hectare in Meursault Narvaux begat only a couple of barrels (so there is just one blend of the Meursault Village instead of unspecified bottlings from specific lieux-dits), and his Meursault Les Chevaliers, the smallest cuvée, was reduced to just two cartons of grapes. Despite this, he was relatively upbeat about the wines. While they do not possess the depth or energy of the 2020s, these are very subtle wines that demand coaxing and reward anyone with the sense to afford them 10 to 15 minutes of opening in the glass. I would point also to the anomalous Meursault Rouge. The whites understandably tend to overshadow their reds.
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2020
2030 - 2055
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Raphael Coche is in typically garrulous form, holding court in the spartan tasting room when I visit, zigzagging between subjects to the extent it is difficult to keep up—as such, gleaning much information about the 2020 vintage in bottle is difficult because he runs off in another direction. Suffice it to say that after a sunny and warm season, they commenced picking on 20 August and bottled most of the wines by April 2022. “I find the vintage similar to 2019 with the same quality level, with the same spirit as 1989 and 1990, with the same dynamic,” he tells me. Their whites are simply wonderful, with perhaps the exception of the Bourgogne Blanc that is playing catch-up. What stands out for me this year is not the Corton-Charlemagne, but rather the spellbinding Meursault Perrières. I am also impressed by the reds. Traditionally, not Coche-Dury’s forte, a melioration in recent years has not gone unnoticed. He mentions that they underwent a 12-day cuvaison. The Auxey-Duresses and Volnay 1er Cru are absolutely divine.
00
2019
2025 - 2060
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As is customary, Coche-Dury no longer shows their wines from barrel, so Raphael Coche took me through their complete set of the 2019 vintage in bottle. No complaints from me! Before tasting, we had a quick look at the vineyard, and Coche showed me how the inter-row crops are just starting to grow, emphasizing the need for biodiversity in the vineyard. Returning back to their new tasting room, and after a chat about music (it seems that the entire Coche family can play as many instruments as Prince), we set about the whites and reds. The harvest here began on September 7, and the aspect of this vintage that Coche appreciates is that it favored both colors, unlike the previous season (in fact, he was quite scathing about the 2018 reds, which he feels lack the typicity of Burgundy). He described 2020 as a “demonstrative” vintage. Coche-Dury's 2019s are superb, for sure: complex wines that are very terroir-driven, peaking with a brilliant Corton-Charlemagne (of course) and a wonderful Les Perrières. Among the reds, which use between 10% and 15% whole bunch, I adored the entry-level Bourgogne Rouge and Auxey-Duresses. I felt that these were toned down from some of the vintages I tasted several years ago that emphasized blacker fruit. These had more Pinoté. These wines are bottled under natural cork.
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2018
2025 - 2050
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Coche-Dury was one of a handful of domaines that seemed to make an effort in terms of Covid safety, though the fact that Raphaël Coche’s head bobbed above the protective screen probably left the virus bemused. There has been a good deal of construction work at the domaine in recent years, and instead of the barrel cellar, we tasted in a new, but unfinished high-ceiling tasting room adjacent to the winery. As is customary, the present vintage is not shown in barrel, rather the latest vintage in bottle, though even here for some reason a couple of 2018 cuvées were omitted. “At the beginning of August there was a storm, but Meursault did not suffer too badly,” he explained. “The warmth of the growing seasons can be a shock to the vines. The heat was brutal yet there was no doubt of hydric stress. It was not as dry as in 2019. We began the picking on 9 September, an early harvest, though I have no regrets about that. It was a generous harvest but not excessive, the combination of old vines and millerandage reducing the crop. It was a serene and quite rapid fermentation. The barrels are rotated every two years and so in 2018 we used barrels from the 2016 vintage. That was a small harvest [because of frost] so we bought wine from the Mâconnais in order to use these new barrels and not have an excess of new oak in 2018. It was a good decision. I find great maturity in the reds with high polyphenols, but the tannins do not show and there is no astringency. I gave them a slightly longer cuvaison, just one or one and a half days more. What is difficult to understand is that the wines did not undergo a lot of extraction but in the end they have so much structure.” No producer is beyond criticism. However, even from the entry-level Bourgogne Blanc, you step back in wonder at these exquisite wines. Forget the market price. The wines deliver. They have an additional layer of complexity that can rivet you to the spot. Cynics opining Raphaël Coche’s wines are somehow inferior to his father’s are driven by sentiment instead of examining the quality in the glass and these 2018s will disabuse those harbouring these ideas. Raphaël has his old man’s magic touch in the vineyard and winery.
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2017
2024 - 2050
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It was a pleasure to return to Coche-Dury after a couple of year's of absence. Raphael Coche is now firmly ensconced as the winemaker, his father Jean-François taking what might be described as a busy backseat to role, doubtless aware of the big shoes his son must fill. Upon entering the barrel cellar, he guided me to the transparent sided barrel where you can observe the deposited lees, encouraging to lean and listen to the almost but no quite inaudible "fizz" of the wine's slow fermentation. As customary, I tasted the previous vintage i.e. 2017, which Raphael told me was distinguished by miniscule grapes. Coche compares 2017 with 2001 in terms of their openness. During our conversation he insisted the importance of stressing the vines, doing everything possible to make them produce natural sugar levels and then being "super meticulous in all levels of vinification." He is also pushing for a very slow alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. "The more gentle everything is, the better," he advised. Of course, such is the demand for their wines that any buying advice is going to have no effect upon decision since everyone accepts whatever they can get their hands on. But I will emphasize my appreciation of Coche-Dury's Puligny-Montrachet that is often overlooked because of its outlier status in this Meursault-dominated portfolio and that it is a Village and not Premier Cru.
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2016
2026 - 2040
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Raphaël Coche was not ready to present his young 2017 white wines on my late-spring tour but he had some interesting comments about this vintage. He asserted that 2017s show "very particular aromas all over France," mentioning "fresh green notes" as well as "almost Jura-like vegetal and oxidation notes." The wines are in a very singular style, he concluded, and we need to wait longer to pass judgment on these wines.
As to vintage 2016, Coche told me that a number of his family's parcels lost more than 50% of their normal crop, "and the Meursault Chevalières was killed." But because there were no second-generation grapes, we had fairly consistent ripeness," although he later admitted that some '16s "were not really physiologically ripe at the harvest." He added that back in 1981, another year with a terrible frost, his father Jean-François vinified with the second-generation grapes and there was thus a wide range of ripeness in the material. Still, Coche père et fils made a few stunning--and surprisingly classic--wines in 2016, and they are likely to be among the stars of the vintage. All of the '16s were bottled in March and April of this year.
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2015
2024 - 2035
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Raphael Coche compared his family's 2015 white wines to their 2005s in their high levels of dry extract. "The 2015 vintage was very marked by drought and heat stress," he told me, "and the vintage is very different from any others during the 2010 through 2014 period." (Grape sugars were in the high 13% to 13.5% range, and the finished acidity levels are typically 3.7 or 3.8 grams per liter.) "The wines have great aromatic power and will age on their tannins."
In recent years, about 15% of Coche's production has been from purchased grapes, with Raphael emphasizing that this fruit is similar in quality to their estate production. "We only buy from terroirs that interest us," he added. Although Coche fils et père seem virtually always to be in their vines, Raphael assured me that winemaking and élevage are very important here--"as much as our work in the vineyards."
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2014
2024 - 2065
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2013
2022 - 2032
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I was unable to taste at Coche-Dury in the spring of 2014 as the estate was shorthanded at the time and overwhelmed with vineyard work. This year, the Coches poured a nearly full set of their 2013 whites, which Raphael Coche described as "a good classic vintage, less fat than the 2012s." Potential alcohol levels were around 12.5% in 2013, added Coche, and none of the finished wines is as high as 13% following very light chaptalization. The '13s had been bottled in April.
The 2014s were not ready to taste as they were still at various stages of their secondary fermentations. Coche described the newer vintage as "massive, powerful, very concentrated wines with good acidity, like the 2012s."
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2011
2026 - 2030
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After tasting hundreds of wines over the week, it was nice to spend some time with a few bottles and my closest inner circle, watch a little NFL football and forget about all the stresses of 2020, even if for just a little while.
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2011
2021 - 2036
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Held this past February, La Festa del Barolo brought together producers, sommeliers and wine lovers from around the world for a memorable weekend of wine, food and conversation. Guests shared an unreal number of rare and collectible bottles at the Gala Dinner, while the 2012 Barolo Masterclass provided a great opportunity for attendees to taste new releases while hearing directly from the growers in an intimate and highly interactive setting. Del Posto proprietors Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and their team pulled out all the stops to help make La Festa del Barolo a great success. Jeff Porter, Wine Director for the Batali & Bastianich group, and a group of this country’s top sommeliers did an exceptional job with wine service at all three events.
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2011
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The June 30 hail was the most destructive storm here in 2012, resulting in crop losses of up to 60% in the family's holdings in Meursault Vireuils, Chevaliere and Rougeot, said Raphael Coche.Then on August 1, more hail cut the crop on the plain by 10%, with losses closer to 25% on the south side of Meursault (pinot noir yields in Volnay and Monthelie were off by 80%, according to Coche).Conditions then turned windy after the August 1 hail, and the affected grapes fell off the vines, an occurrence Coche described as quite rare.Coche Junior and Senior then harvested early, beginning on Sunday, September 16th.Rafael told me he prefers the whites to the reds in 2012:he finds the pinots a bit hard and lacking in finesse.By the way, the Coches will get an additional parcel of Corton-Charlemagne this year and will soon be able to double their production of this grand cru.Note that the labels here were updated as of the 2010s, except for the Corton-Charlemagne.Only a few of the 2012s were close to the end of their malos at the time of my visit, so I have published early notes on only a few of the more advanced cuvees.
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2010
2025 - 2070
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The hotel boasts two restaurants, the two Michelin-starred La Pyramide and a bistro, L’Espace PH3. On the first night, attendees convened at the bistro in order to mine its eye-boggling wine lists, and the following day, the second part of the Chambertin tasting was accompanied by a specially prepared menu in the flagship restaurant.
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2010
2022 - 2060
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2010
2028 - 2050
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2010
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There was no chance to try the 2011s here at the end of May, as the wines were just starting their malolactic fermentations and were impossible to taste.But I saw the spectacular 2010s with Raphael Coche, who has made the family's reds since 2003 and has now taken over the whites, with father Jean-Francois spending most of his time in the vines.Raphael noted that the creamy millerande grapes in 2010 buffered the vintage's strong acidity, and that's why the wines are not too austere in the early going.He must have a high threshold for pain because I found at least a couple of these wines to be extremely unforgiving in their youth, even if their extraordinary quality and potential longevity are obvious."They don't quite have the thickness of 1990 but they have incredible tightly coiled energy," said Coche.These wines will be worth a special search and should age at a snail's pace.
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2010
2020 - 2020
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Jean-François Coche's 2010s have turned out just as I hoped they would, which is to say the wines are breathtaking. On average, yields were down 40%, so these already highly coveted, rare wines are going to be even more impossible to find than usual. Coche is adamant that opening his top 2010s before age ten is a total waste, something he repeated a few times during my visit. Accordingly, Coche doesn't plan on releasing the Corton-Charlemagne for another few years. Unfortunately I wasn't able to taste all of the 2010s from bottle, but this sample is a good representation of the vintage. Readers will find complete notes on the 2010s from barrel in our database at www.erobertparker.com.
00
2010
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The high percentage of coulure in 2010 resulted in small, concentrated grapes with great vivacity but without surmaturite, said Raphael Coche-Dury. "When we picked, they were very ripe but just short of overripening." Acidity levels, both malic and tartaric, were very high, he noted, adding that the 2010s should be great agers. In contrast, the 2009 "are not for enormous aging, but they are very rich and have sound acidity." (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
00
2010
2020 - 2020
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Raphael Coche-Dury is just past his 30th birthday, but he has already spent more than half his life working at his family's illustrious domaine. It is quite evident Raphael Coche intends to follow his father footsteps, so the future seems to be in very capable hands. Coche describes 2010 as a cold vintage, but one with a lot of concentration because of the extensive coulure (shatter). Conditions in 2009 were pretty much the diametrical opposite. August was very warm, which caused challenges as sugars mounted quickly, but the fruit was healthy. Coche told me he wasn't a huge fan of the vintage, but found the wines improved as they freshened up after the malos. Coche-Dury fans know the estate bottles three separate Meursaults at the villages level which are unfortunately not identified on the labels, which personally I find a bit frustrating. Qualitatively the three wines are quite similar, but their personalities are not. I have provided notes on all three of the 2010s and two of the 2009s, but readers will have to check with their suppliers to know for certain which wine they are buying. The 2009s should drink well relatively early and appear to have the stuffing to also age very well. The 2010s may very well prove to be nearly immortal. Let me just say I can't wait to taste these wines in finished form from bottle.
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2009
2019 - 2029
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All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
2009
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The high percentage of coulure in 2010 resulted in small, concentrated grapes with great vivacity but without surmaturite, said Raphael Coche-Dury. "When we picked, they were very ripe but just short of overripening." Acidity levels, both malic and tartaric, were very high, he noted, adding that the 2010s should be great agers. In contrast, the 2009 "are not for enormous aging, but they are very rich and have sound acidity." (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
00
2009
2017 - 2017
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Raphael Coche-Dury is just past his 30th birthday, but he has already spent more than half his life working at his family's illustrious domaine. It is quite evident Raphael Coche intends to follow his father footsteps, so the future seems to be in very capable hands. Coche describes 2010 as a cold vintage, but one with a lot of concentration because of the extensive coulure (shatter). Conditions in 2009 were pretty much the diametrical opposite. August was very warm, which caused challenges as sugars mounted quickly, but the fruit was healthy. Coche told me he wasn't a huge fan of the vintage, but found the wines improved as they freshened up after the malos. Coche-Dury fans know the estate bottles three separate Meursaults at the villages level which are unfortunately not identified on the labels, which personally I find a bit frustrating. Qualitatively the three wines are quite similar, but their personalities are not. I have provided notes on all three of the 2010s and two of the 2009s, but readers will have to check with their suppliers to know for certain which wine they are buying. The 2009s should drink well relatively early and appear to have the stuffing to also age very well. The 2010s may very well prove to be nearly immortal. Let me just say I can't wait to taste these wines in finished form from bottle.
00
2009
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Coche describes 2009 as "a vintage of pleasure: perfumed, floral, sympathique, charming. And in red, it's even fuller and better. The whites are probably to drink over the next 15 years." He went on to compare his newest crop of white wines to attractive mid-term vintages like 1979 and 1982, maintaining that there was "no chance that the 2009s would close up after the bottling." He added that he did not stir the lees at all in 2009, as this technique would have been "pointless." Coche's 2008s, which I did not try last spring owing to the very late malos, have turned out to be serious wines indeed, with the top two cuvees among my favorites of this vintage. Incidentally, I had a quick look at the Coche-Dury 2009 reds (these wines are largely made by son Raphael), and was knocked out by the way they combine sappy cherry fruit and minerally soil tones.
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2008
2018 - 2028
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All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
2008
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Coche describes 2009 as "a vintage of pleasure: perfumed, floral, sympathique, charming. And in red, it's even fuller and better. The whites are probably to drink over the next 15 years." He went on to compare his newest crop of white wines to attractive mid-term vintages like 1979 and 1982, maintaining that there was "no chance that the 2009s would close up after the bottling." He added that he did not stir the lees at all in 2009, as this technique would have been "pointless." Coche's 2008s, which I did not try last spring owing to the very late malos, have turned out to be serious wines indeed, with the top two cuvees among my favorites of this vintage. Incidentally, I had a quick look at the Coche-Dury 2009 reds (these wines are largely made by son Raphael), and was knocked out by the way they combine sappy cherry fruit and minerally soil tones.
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2007
2019 - 2032
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All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
2007
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My annual visit to this splendid estate was limited to a tasting of the finished 2007s, as the 2008s were in full malo. Jean-Francois Coche didn't even want to discuss the newest vintage yet, but was happy to show his 2007s, which he described as minerally and pure. According to his usual practice, they were bottled late, in April of this year. I have the feeling that he prefers the style of this vintage to the 2006s, especially where his colleagues harvested the earlier vintage too late. "There are really two types of wine in 2006," said Coche. "The grapes turned quickly after the rain, and the late pickers had to deal with rot."
00
2007
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Jean-Francois Coche picked until about September 15 in '07, reporting that the acid levels in the grapes were falling at the end. "The wines will be accessible early," he told me. "There's nothing hard or tannic about them." The chardonnays were routinely chaptalized by 0.5 to 0.7 of a degree, said Coche. The '07 whites are richer than the '04s, Coche went on. "They're higher in dry extract and more glyceral, with less tartaric acidity," he explained. Incidentally, Coche did very little lees stirring in either '07 or '06-"only at the very beginning." Coche believes that the '06s will begin to give pleasure in a couple of years, whereas "you need to forget the '05s for at least ten years." He compared '06 to '86, and '05 to '85, but noted that too many '06s were made from fruit that was harvested too late. Coche also compared '05 to 1964, which he told me was his first vintage. "The two years featured very similar climates," he told me. "There was very little rain, but the precipitation came at exactly the right times."
00
2006
2024 - 2048
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2006
2019 - 2036
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All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
2006
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Jean-Francois Coche picked until about September 15 in '07, reporting that the acid levels in the grapes were falling at the end. "The wines will be accessible early," he told me. "There's nothing hard or tannic about them." The chardonnays were routinely chaptalized by 0.5 to 0.7 of a degree, said Coche. The '07 whites are richer than the '04s, Coche went on. "They're higher in dry extract and more glyceral, with less tartaric acidity," he explained. Incidentally, Coche did very little lees stirring in either '07 or '06-"only at the very beginning." Coche believes that the '06s will begin to give pleasure in a couple of years, whereas "you need to forget the '05s for at least ten years." He compared '06 to '86, and '05 to '85, but noted that too many '06s were made from fruit that was harvested too late. Coche also compared '05 to 1964, which he told me was his first vintage. "The two years featured very similar climates," he told me. "There was very little rain, but the precipitation came at exactly the right times."
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2006
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As is often the case here, the malolactic fermentations were slow in 2006, and most of Coche's newest crop of wines were still in full malo at the end of May. My notes are limited to barrels that had finished. Coche describes 2006 as a good harvest in which he picked early and thus avoided bringing in grapes affected by rot. He began on the day of the ban and finished in six days. As at several other addresses in Meursault, 2005 looks to be spectacular here. Coche says these wines remind him of "a melange of 1995 and 1985," or "like '85 but more tannic," and really need ten years of aging. The 2005 Corton-Charlemagne is another young masterpiece.
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2005
2025 - 2060
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2005
2020 - 2060
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2005
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As is often the case here, the malolactic fermentations were slow in 2006, and most of Coche's newest crop of wines were still in full malo at the end of May. My notes are limited to barrels that had finished. Coche describes 2006 as a good harvest in which he picked early and thus avoided bringing in grapes affected by rot. He began on the day of the ban and finished in six days. As at several other addresses in Meursault, 2005 looks to be spectacular here. Coche says these wines remind him of "a melange of 1995 and 1985," or "like '85 but more tannic," and really need ten years of aging. The 2005 Corton-Charlemagne is another young masterpiece.
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2004
2024 - 2038
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00
2004
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2004
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The 2004s took a very long time to finish their alcoholic fermentations (until early March), as did the '78s in this cellar, according to Jean-Francois Coche. Most of the malos, however, were done by the time I visited. As I mentioned last spring, Coche believes he benefited in 2003 by keeping, and using, a percentage of second-generation fruit in a number of his cuvees. Not only did the grapes themselves contribute healthier levels of acidity, but the second-generation fruit was accompanied by new foliage, which helped to protect the grapes from burning in the hot summer sun. Coche's 2003s have more freshness than most of the wines I sampled from this extreme vintage, and Coche believes that "these wines will be just fine in seven or eight years." But he admits that the vintage was best-and least atypical-in Corton-Charlemagne.
00
2003
2020 - 2030
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After tasting hundreds of wines over the week, it was nice to spend some time with a few bottles and my closest inner circle, watch a little NFL football and forget about all the stresses of 2020, even if for just a little while.
00
2003
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The 2004s took a very long time to finish their alcoholic fermentations (until early March), as did the '78s in this cellar, according to Jean-Francois Coche. Most of the malos, however, were done by the time I visited. As I mentioned last spring, Coche believes he benefited in 2003 by keeping, and using, a percentage of second-generation fruit in a number of his cuvees. Not only did the grapes themselves contribute healthier levels of acidity, but the second-generation fruit was accompanied by new foliage, which helped to protect the grapes from burning in the hot summer sun. Coche's 2003s have more freshness than most of the wines I sampled from this extreme vintage, and Coche believes that "these wines will be just fine in seven or eight years." But he admits that the vintage was best-and least atypical-in Corton-Charlemagne.
00
2003
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Jean-Francois Coche, who harvested his chardonnay during the last week of August, describes the 2003s as "like the '83s but without botrytis. "Interestingly, Coche told me he routinely included 10% to 15% of the second generation grapes in his various cuvees which gave the wines a better balance. The second generation crop was less likely to be grilled by the sun because there was stronger vegetation to protect these grapes," explained Coche, adding that the advantage of using some of these grapes was more than just a matter of getting better acidity in the final blend. Still, admits Coche, the 2003s show the power of the sun; it's not a vintage of finesse. The terroir is often neutralized by the ripeness. The 2003s are not minerally enough; they're not the Coche style. "It's a vintage to drink with food, not as an aperitif, Coche adds. The wines are for drinking early or late:they'll last on their power, he says, "like the '83s, which are still good. "Coche used much less new oak for his 2003s, including a lot of barrels that had previously been used more than once. He told me that he wishes he used even less. All of the malolactic fermentations were done by the time I visited at the end of May, and most, but not all, of the barrels had been sulfited. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley CA
00
2002
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Jean-Francois Coche, who harvested his chardonnay during the last week of August, describes the 2003s as "like the '83s but without botrytis. "Interestingly, Coche told me he routinely included 10% to 15% of the second generation grapes in his various cuvees which gave the wines a better balance. The second generation crop was less likely to be grilled by the sun because there was stronger vegetation to protect these grapes," explained Coche, adding that the advantage of using some of these grapes was more than just a matter of getting better acidity in the final blend. Still, admits Coche, the 2003s show the power of the sun; it's not a vintage of finesse. The terroir is often neutralized by the ripeness. The 2003s are not minerally enough; they're not the Coche style. "It's a vintage to drink with food, not as an aperitif, Coche adds. The wines are for drinking early or late:they'll last on their power, he says, "like the '83s, which are still good. "Coche used much less new oak for his 2003s, including a lot of barrels that had previously been used more than once. He told me that he wishes he used even less. All of the malolactic fermentations were done by the time I visited at the end of May, and most, but not all, of the barrels had been sulfited. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley CA
00
2002
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Coche rarely makes strong claims early for a new vintage, but allowed that the 2002s hold out considerable promise. This time, the malolactic fermentations were for the most part finished when I tasted in early June. During my tasting with Coche, I mentioned that his 1990 Meursault Perrieres was a consistently spectacular white Burgundy, just now embarking on its plane of peak drinkability. He agreed, and offered the opinion that it's a better wine than his 1990 Corton-Charlemagne, which he feels he picked a bit later than ideal.
00
2001
2015 - 2027
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00
2001
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée in NYC, 2009.
00
2001
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Coche rarely makes strong claims early for a new vintage, but allowed that the 2002s hold out considerable promise. This time, the malolactic fermentations were for the most part finished when I tasted in early June. During my tasting with Coche, I mentioned that his 1990 Meursault Perrieres was a consistently spectacular white Burgundy, just now embarking on its plane of peak drinkability. He agreed, and offered the opinion that it's a better wine than his 1990 Corton-Charlemagne, which he feels he picked a bit later than ideal.
00
2001
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Coche did even more stirring of the lees of his 2001s than he did the previous year, and maintained that the lees were essentially clean. He describes the new set of wines as fatter than the 2000s, with the same acidity as the earlier vintage. The 2000s, though, show more finesse. Interestingly, these comments roughly track Dominique Lafon take on these two years: the 2001 richer and fatter, the 2000s finer. A couple of Coche 2001 cuvees had not yet completed their malolactic fermentations, but most of the wines were finished, and as a group they were showing well at the end of May.
00
2000
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Coche did even more stirring of the lees of his 2001s than he did the previous year, and maintained that the lees were essentially clean. He describes the new set of wines as fatter than the 2000s, with the same acidity as the earlier vintage. The 2000s, though, show more finesse. Interestingly, these comments roughly track Dominique Lafon take on these two years: the 2001 richer and fatter, the 2000s finer. A couple of Coche 2001 cuvees had not yet completed their malolactic fermentations, but most of the wines were finished, and as a group they were showing well at the end of May.
00
2000
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Jean-Francois Coche describes the young 2000s as firm wines with very good acidity; there was a bit of botrytis in his aligote, which, incidentally, offers great fat and power for this variety, as well as piquant balancing acidity, but virtually none in the estate chardonnay. Coche's '99s have turned out splendidly; he describes '99 as "a very complete vintage featuring great richness and balance, better than '96 or '95." The Corton-Charlemagne is a tour de force
00
1999
2016 - 2024
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The private dining room of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko was the site of this recent birthday dinner. The food and wine were both terrific, but as always, it’s the people who make an event special. Over the years, this group has tasted some pretty special wines together. That was once again the case on this night. Sommeliers John Slover and Chase Sinzers did a fabulous job keeping up with the pace and ensuring each wine was served at the optimal temperature.
00
1999
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Jean-Francois Coche describes the young 2000s as firm wines with very good acidity; there was a bit of botrytis in his aligote, which, incidentally, offers great fat and power for this variety, as well as piquant balancing acidity, but virtually none in the estate chardonnay. Coche's '99s have turned out splendidly; he describes '99 as "a very complete vintage featuring great richness and balance, better than '96 or '95." The Corton-Charlemagne is a tour de force
00
1999
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A number of Coche '98s appear to have lost some of their clarity and to have developed a hard edge during the second half of their levage with the result that the bottled wines do not show the compelling aromatics and layered textures that fans of this superb domain crave. No doubt this was due in part to Coche's use of the lees, which were not entirely healthy in '98, especially in vineyards hard-hit by frost and oidium. For his own part, Coche is clearly not enamored of these wines; he made a point of showing me the '98s quickly before turning to his '99s, which promise to make classic Coche bottles. Even the bourgogne blanc should be a standout in '99.
00
1998
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A number of Coche '98s appear to have lost some of their clarity and to have developed a hard edge during the second half of their levage with the result that the bottled wines do not show the compelling aromatics and layered textures that fans of this superb domain crave. No doubt this was due in part to Coche's use of the lees, which were not entirely healthy in '98, especially in vineyards hard-hit by frost and oidium. For his own part, Coche is clearly not enamored of these wines; he made a point of showing me the '98s quickly before turning to his '99s, which promise to make classic Coche bottles. Even the bourgogne blanc should be a standout in '99.
00
1998
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In late May, Jean-Francois Coche still was musing about the crazy weather conditions of 1998. "We had the first frost on the hillside since 1945, and the first serious sunburn since 1947," said Coche, who removed 10% of his Corton-Charlemagne grapes with tweezers for fear of getting a burnt taste in the wine. And if that wasn't enough of a challenge, a helicopter carrying out vineyard treatments crashed into his Corton-Charlemagne plot during the summer, destroying 45 vines. Coche, reliably conservative when it comes to rating vintages, describes 1998 as "une bonne moyenne " But the average for Coche is better than exceptional for most white wine producers of the Cote d'Or. Although the fruit came in with slightly lower sugars than in the previous year, Coche did very little batonnage as the wines already possessed enough fat following the extended alcoholic fermentations.
00
1997
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Coche did almost no batonnage with his '97s, a set of wines he describes as fat and charming, but less minerally than usual. The malolactic fermentations were finished by the beginning of April, leaving wines with good average acidity, according to Coche. In contrast, Coche stirred the lees of his '96s "like I've never done before," and a few of the '96s did not finish their malos until December of 1997. In fact, I was only able to sample three finished '96s; the other wines were still on their finings in preparation for a July bottling and were impossible to taste. Those that I did see were among the potential superstars of the vintage. I rated these wines highly last year, but not highly enough.
00
1996
2016 - 2021
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The private dining room of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko was the site of this recent birthday dinner. The food and wine were both terrific, but as always, it’s the people who make an event special. Over the years, this group has tasted some pretty special wines together. That was once again the case on this night. Sommeliers John Slover and Chase Sinzers did a fabulous job keeping up with the pace and ensuring each wine was served at the optimal temperature.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée in NYC, 2009.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted at the La Paulee Gala Dinner in San Francisco, 2008.
00
1995
2016 - 2020
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All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
1994
2016 - 2026
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
1993
2021 - 2028
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00
1993
2018 - 2025
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00
1993
2016 - 2026
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
1992
2017 - 2022
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Held this past February, La Festa del Barolo brought together producers, sommeliers and wine lovers from around the world for a memorable weekend of wine, food and conversation. Guests shared an unreal number of rare and collectible bottles at the Gala Dinner, while the 2012 Barolo Masterclass provided a great opportunity for attendees to taste new releases while hearing directly from the growers in an intimate and highly interactive setting. Del Posto proprietors Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and their team pulled out all the stops to help make La Festa del Barolo a great success. Jeff Porter, Wine Director for the Batali & Bastianich group, and a group of this country’s top sommeliers did an exceptional job with wine service at all three events.
00
1992
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée in NYC, 2009.
00
1991
2016 - 2026
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of each wine was expressed in each year.
00
1988
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée de New York, 2007.
00
1986
2024 - 2029
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In the fledgling days of my wine career, long before I put pen to paper, I used to visit a reputable merchant in deepest Suffolk. These were thoroughly enjoyable away days from the office. We would often repair to a local fish restaurant to imbibe the rest of the afternoon away, skivers that we were. I vividly recall one occasion when the merchant regaled a bottle drunk recently. He rhapsodized that wine so much that his words have always stayed with me. Unfortunately, even then, 20-plus years ago, this wine was so unfathomably rare that the chances of even finding a bottle, let alone drinking one, were remote. Of course, back then, I had not counted on munificent wine friends…
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