1998 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
France
Pessac Léognan Grand Cru Classé, Graves
Bordeaux
White
Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon (2024 vintage)
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1998
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The white grapes, harvested during the first 12 days of September, were high in sugar yet managed to retain firm acidity, the sauvignon blanc being especially powerful, said assistant manager Remi Edange. The red grapes, picked from September 21 to October 10, were also higher in sugar than those of the previous year, but slightly lower in polyphenols. Following a severe green harvest, the yield was just 40 hectoliters per hectare, said Edange, who noted that there was little juice in the small berries.
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Proprietor Olivier Bernard presided over a clutch of very impressive 2021s at this estate. “We could not have made these wines 20 years ago. There are no green tannins,” he told me.
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Olivier Bernard is not averse to new ideas but frankly, when you have already produced such a plethora of great wine, why change? One feature visitors will spot upon driving up through the vines to the château is large wind turbines. Surrounded by forest, Domaine de Chevalier can be prone to frost. So how did the vineyard fare in 2017? Bernard enlightened me on two or three measures that made sure he got to the end of the harvest with a decent yield when other vineyards were decimated. “I never expected to harvest the Cabernet Sauvignon this early at the end of September at that level of maturity after a cool summer. That is because the cycle started so early, much more than say, 2003. We did not have frost on the plateau, just some on the western part. We declared 34hl/ha for the whites compared to 48hl/ha for the reds, although this is high relative to our neighbors that were more affected. We have 11 wind fans that really helped. You need to have many fans working together to be effective in moving the cold mass of air. Also, we did half the pruning in March and that also helped against frost. We do the pliage (attaching the tendrils to the wire) in May that also militated against frost which is more damaging if it has already been done. In 2017 we had four weeks of harvest between the beginning and the end – you need less time to pick when the cycle is early.” The word that encapsulates the Domaine de Chevalier Rouge is a French one – “buvabilité” or “drinkability” (it sounds better in French). It is very well balanced, assured and harmonious, not up to the standard of the 2015 or 2016 but a wine that you just know is going to give a lot of drinking pleasure. The standout is the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc that revels in a benevolent season for the whites in general, brimming over with tension and energy, one of the finest that I have encountered in recent years. And no, I had not tasted dozens of tannic Cabernet before any of my four tastings!
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2016
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2016
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2016
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2016
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Domaine de Chevalier is better known for their superb Blanc, but in 2016, the Rouge steals the show. Proprietor Olivier Bernard gave the wine 30 days on the skins. The malolactic fermentation took place in barrel and the wine will see about 35% new oak. As good as the 2016 is now, it will naturally need at least a few years in bottle to fully blossom. The Blanc is quite good, although it lacks the visceral thrill that so often accompanies these wines.
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2015
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2015
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2015
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Olivier Bernard and his team made two stellar wines in 2015. Both the red and white at Domaine de Chevalier are compelling.
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2015
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Olivier Bernard and his team made two stellar wines in 2015. Both the red and white at Domaine de Chevalier are compelling.
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2014
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2014
2019 - 2034
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I was deeply impressed with these wines from Domaine de Chevalier. The red has a slight upper hand in 2014, but both wines are distinctive and full of character. Olivier Bernard owns one of the crown jewels of Bordeaux, as these wines clearly make evident.
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2014
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These are two fabulous wines from Domaine de Chevalier and Olivier Bernard. One of the true elite yet under the radar properties in Bordeaux, Domaine de Chevalier excels with both their red and white. Stéphane Derenoncourt consults on the red while Denis Dubourdieu advises on the white. It doesn't get much better than that and it shows in wines of pedigree, class and nuance.
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2013
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2013
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"We prefer to take all of our risks in the vineyard," says Domaine de Chevalier's Deputy Director Rémi Edange. That approach seems to have worked, as the domaine's white and red are both among the top wines of the year. The harvest started on September 15 ended on October 3 for the whites. The Merlot and Petit Verdot followed, with the Cabernets being brought in between October 10-15. This was the first vintage in which the domaine employed an optical sorting table after the destemmer. Gentle pumpovers and no punchdowns were the rule in 2013. The wines are aging in one-third new, fine-grained, light-toast barrels and are full of promise.
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2011
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2011
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2010
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2008
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2007
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2007
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2006
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2006
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2005
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2005
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2005
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2004
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2004
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Even after a lot of leaf-pulling and crop-thinning in July and August, the maturity came very slowly, reported manager Remi Edange. The white grapes were harvested from September 8 through October 2, but Domaine de Chevalier did not begin picking its merlot until the whites were finished. The cabernet franc and petit verdot were harvested on October 12, and the cabernet sauvignon was ultimately finished on October 20. Ultimately the skins got ripe, noted Edange, and there was no greenness. A saignee of 15% to 20% was done to concentrate the must, and the estate also used vacuum evaporation on certain lots. Incidentally, when I described 2003 as a vintage without precedent, Edange quipped "and possibly without a future either"-a comment not on the Domaine de Chevalier '03 but on the impossibility of knowing with any confidence how wines from this vintage will age.
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2003
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Even after a lot of leaf-pulling and crop-thinning in July and August, the maturity came very slowly, reported manager Remi Edange. The white grapes were harvested from September 8 through October 2, but Domaine de Chevalier did not begin picking its merlot until the whites were finished. The cabernet franc and petit verdot were harvested on October 12, and the cabernet sauvignon was ultimately finished on October 20. Ultimately the skins got ripe, noted Edange, and there was no greenness. A saignee of 15% to 20% was done to concentrate the must, and the estate also used vacuum evaporation on certain lots. Incidentally, when I described 2003 as a vintage without precedent, Edange quipped "and possibly without a future either"-a comment not on the Domaine de Chevalier '03 but on the impossibility of knowing with any confidence how wines from this vintage will age.
00
2003
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"We tasted the white grapes on August 18, after we returned from vacation," said manager Remi Edange, "but they weren't ripe despite having low acidity and high sugars. So we waited a full week. We picked a bit on August 25, then really stopped again until early September." Rain on September 12 necessitated harvesting merlot, as the skins of the grapes were quickly affected, but Domaine de Chevalier waited until September 25 to bring in its cabernet sauvignon. "It was a harvest filled with difficult choices," Edange summarized, "but the 2003 has been a simple wine to make, with problem-free vinifications." The yield for red grapes averaged 46 hectoliters per hectare, but only 38 for the sauvignon blanc and semillon.
00
2002
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"We tasted the white grapes on August 18, after we returned from vacation," said manager Remi Edange, "but they weren't ripe despite having low acidity and high sugars. So we waited a full week. We picked a bit on August 25, then really stopped again until early September." Rain on September 12 necessitated harvesting merlot, as the skins of the grapes were quickly affected, but Domaine de Chevalier waited until September 25 to bring in its cabernet sauvignon. "It was a harvest filled with difficult choices," Edange summarized, "but the 2003 has been a simple wine to make, with problem-free vinifications." The yield for red grapes averaged 46 hectoliters per hectare, but only 38 for the sauvignon blanc and semillon.
00
2002
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"The ripeness came from the sun in September, but not from high temperatures," said owner Olivier Bernard. "Everyone had the beginnings of rot at the end of August, even in their cabernet, but the sunny, windy weather really blocked its spread." Bernard enlisted the consulting assistance of Stephane Derenoncourt to make the 2002 red, and the young wine was still on its lees at the beginning of April. It will also be racked less frequently than in the past, which should enable the wine to carry more of its sweetness into the bottle. Bernard emphasized that unlike most of the other consulting enologists of the Bordeaux region, Derenoncourt visited the vineyard a good ten times before the harvest.
00
2001
2021 - 2045
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00
2001
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"The ripeness came from the sun in September, but not from high temperatures," said owner Olivier Bernard. "Everyone had the beginnings of rot at the end of August, even in their cabernet, but the sunny, windy weather really blocked its spread." Bernard enlisted the consulting assistance of Stephane Derenoncourt to make the 2002 red, and the young wine was still on its lees at the beginning of April. It will also be racked less frequently than in the past, which should enable the wine to carry more of its sweetness into the bottle. Bernard emphasized that unlike most of the other consulting enologists of the Bordeaux region, Derenoncourt visited the vineyard a good ten times before the harvest.
00
2001
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According to manager Remi Edange, Domaine de Chevalier began the harvest for white grapes on September 6 but brought in the reds late. "We finished on October 6; we needed to pick on that last Saturday because the remaining fruit was starting to rot." There are now three different sortings at Domaine de Chevalier: one in the vines and the other two before and after the fruit is destemmed. As at so many other Bordeaux properties, vinification is done in smaller cuves, thus allowing the estate to harvest with greater precision.
00
2000
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2000
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According to manager Remi Edange, Domaine de Chevalier began the harvest for white grapes on September 6 but brought in the reds late. "We finished on October 6; we needed to pick on that last Saturday because the remaining fruit was starting to rot." There are now three different sortings at Domaine de Chevalier: one in the vines and the other two before and after the fruit is destemmed. As at so many other Bordeaux properties, vinification is done in smaller cuves, thus allowing the estate to harvest with greater precision.
00
2000
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Domaine de Chevalier picked its red grapes late, bringing in the merlot during the last week of September and the cabernet sauvignon between October 5 and 10. The modest rain that fell on September 21 helped to increase the grape sugars, noted assistant manager Remi Edange, and the cabernet ultimately reached the 12%-12.3% range, high for this estate. The vinification was long and soft, said Edange. Edange mentioned that Domaine de Chevalier has eliminated some excessively vigorous cabernet vines that he says were largely responsible for the dryness found in a few recent vintages of the estate red wine.
00
1999
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Domaine de Chevalier picked its red grapes late, bringing in the merlot during the last week of September and the cabernet sauvignon between October 5 and 10. The modest rain that fell on September 21 helped to increase the grape sugars, noted assistant manager Remi Edange, and the cabernet ultimately reached the 12%-12.3% range, high for this estate. The vinification was long and soft, said Edange. Edange mentioned that Domaine de Chevalier has eliminated some excessively vigorous cabernet vines that he says were largely responsible for the dryness found in a few recent vintages of the estate red wine.
00
1999
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The white grapes, harvested during the first 12 days of September, were high in sugar yet managed to retain firm acidity, the sauvignon blanc being especially powerful, said assistant manager Remi Edange. The red grapes, picked from September 21 to October 10, were also higher in sugar than those of the previous year, but slightly lower in polyphenols. Following a severe green harvest, the yield was just 40 hectoliters per hectare, said Edange, who noted that there was little juice in the small berries.
00
1998
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The white grapes, harvested during the first 12 days of September, were high in sugar yet managed to retain firm acidity, the sauvignon blanc being especially powerful, said assistant manager Remi Edange. The red grapes, picked from September 21 to October 10, were also higher in sugar than those of the previous year, but slightly lower in polyphenols. Following a severe green harvest, the yield was just 40 hectoliters per hectare, said Edange, who noted that there was little juice in the small berries.
00
1998
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The '98 vintage featured small, thick-skinned grapes, noted assistant manager Remi Edange, who pointed out that the vine density here is a relatively high 10,000 plants per hectare. The yield of 50 hectoliters per hectare-and just 42 h/h for the estate's old vines--is quite low for this density, Edange pointed out. Domaine de Chevalier, which harvests on the early side ("we never look for surmaturite," says Edange), brought in all of its merlot and a portion of its cabernet before the September 27 rain. Vacuum evaporation has been used as needed since 1996, and the estate found it useful in '98 to concentrate the juice from its young vines. Whether due to early picking or to overclarification of the wines prior to bottling, the bottled reds from this domain have been disappointing in recent years. Even the '96, quite promising from barrel a year ago, shows a dryness in the mouth and on the finish.
00
1997
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The '98 vintage featured small, thick-skinned grapes, noted assistant manager Remi Edange, who pointed out that the vine density here is a relatively high 10,000 plants per hectare. The yield of 50 hectoliters per hectare-and just 42 h/h for the estate's old vines--is quite low for this density, Edange pointed out. Domaine de Chevalier, which harvests on the early side ("we never look for surmaturite," says Edange), brought in all of its merlot and a portion of its cabernet before the September 27 rain. Vacuum evaporation has been used as needed since 1996, and the estate found it useful in '98 to concentrate the juice from its young vines. Whether due to early picking or to overclarification of the wines prior to bottling, the bottled reds from this domain have been disappointing in recent years. Even the '96, quite promising from barrel a year ago, shows a dryness in the mouth and on the finish.
00
1997
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Assistant manager Remi Edange, like so many other Bordeaux insiders, describes 1997 as "un vin de degustation, pas speculation." Yields here, according to Edange, were a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare due to frost; the wine will be an 80/20 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Long-time International Wine Cellar readers may recall my notes on the 1993 Domaine de Chevalier tasted before and after it was pumped through a plaque filter what began as a moderately fleshy wine lost some of its tannic bite but was thinner, dryer and shorter following the filtration. During my most recent visit, I was able to sample the '96 rouge before and after it was fined with four egg whites per barrel. Again, the tannins were rounder after the fining but the wine was robbed, at least temporarily, of aromatic complexity and delineation of flavor. Domaine de Chevalier is far from the only Bordeaux estate to fine and filter their wine, and in fact is unusually candid in showing me its wines before and after clarification. What concerns me, however, is the apparently widespread assumption that buyers of Bordeaux require these steps, and are unwilling to put up with wines that throw a deposit in their early years. At the prices of today Bordeaux, do we really want "safe" wine?
00
1996
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Assistant manager Remi Edange, like so many other Bordeaux insiders, describes 1997 as "un vin de degustation, pas speculation." Yields here, according to Edange, were a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare due to frost; the wine will be an 80/20 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Long-time International Wine Cellar readers may recall my notes on the 1993 Domaine de Chevalier tasted before and after it was pumped through a plaque filter what began as a moderately fleshy wine lost some of its tannic bite but was thinner, dryer and shorter following the filtration. During my most recent visit, I was able to sample the '96 rouge before and after it was fined with four egg whites per barrel. Again, the tannins were rounder after the fining but the wine was robbed, at least temporarily, of aromatic complexity and delineation of flavor. Domaine de Chevalier is far from the only Bordeaux estate to fine and filter their wine, and in fact is unusually candid in showing me its wines before and after clarification. What concerns me, however, is the apparently widespread assumption that buyers of Bordeaux require these steps, and are unwilling to put up with wines that throw a deposit in their early years. At the prices of today Bordeaux, do we really want "safe" wine?
00
1995
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Assistant manager Remi Edange, like so many other Bordeaux insiders, describes 1997 as "un vin de degustation, pas speculation." Yields here, according to Edange, were a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare due to frost; the wine will be an 80/20 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Long-time International Wine Cellar readers may recall my notes on the 1993 Domaine de Chevalier tasted before and after it was pumped through a plaque filter what began as a moderately fleshy wine lost some of its tannic bite but was thinner, dryer and shorter following the filtration. During my most recent visit, I was able to sample the '96 rouge before and after it was fined with four egg whites per barrel. Again, the tannins were rounder after the fining but the wine was robbed, at least temporarily, of aromatic complexity and delineation of flavor. Domaine de Chevalier is far from the only Bordeaux estate to fine and filter their wine, and in fact is unusually candid in showing me its wines before and after clarification. What concerns me, however, is the apparently widespread assumption that buyers of Bordeaux require these steps, and are unwilling to put up with wines that throw a deposit in their early years. At the prices of today Bordeaux, do we really want "safe" wine?
00
1995
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Olivier Bernard began bringing in thoroughly ripe merlot under good conditions on September 12, then harvested his cabernet over a two-and-a-half-week period extending into early October. Grape sugars averaged a half-degree higher than in '94, and the richer grapes were given a longer cuvaison. Taking advantage of his new climate-controlled winemaking facility, Bernard did 25% of the malolactic fermentation in barriques for the first time. The young '95 appears to be a potentially classic Domaine de Chevalier but it was the domaine's white wine that lingered in my mind and on my palate.
00
1994
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Olivier Bernard began bringing in thoroughly ripe merlot under good conditions on September 12, then harvested his cabernet over a two-and-a-half-week period extending into early October. Grape sugars averaged a half-degree higher than in '94, and the richer grapes were given a longer cuvaison. Taking advantage of his new climate-controlled winemaking facility, Bernard did 25% of the malolactic fermentation in barriques for the first time. The young '95 appears to be a potentially classic Domaine de Chevalier but it was the domaine's white wine that lingered in my mind and on my palate.
00
1992
2022 - 2038
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1989
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1988
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1985
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1984
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1983
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1975
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1970
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