00
2014
2018 - 2034
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Managing director Laurent Dufau and winemaker Vincent Millet are doing terrific work. These 2014s show why Saint-Estèphe is such a favored spot in 2014. The wines are powerful, ample and totally seductive.
00
2023
2025 - 2038
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00
2023
2028 - 2042
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Vincent Millet was one of the first winemakers I chatted with during my Bordeaux tour. Calon Ségur, habitually, is the first doorbell I ring. “It is a very aromatic vintage. It is very generous in terms of volume on both Left and Right Bank,” he says. “You could drink it for five to ten years, but the wine will be able to age. It was practically double the yield. It is a classic style of wine in 2023 with a freshness that makes it easy to drink. There was no mildew pressure at all, either in Saint-Estèphe or Pomerol and just a little in Saint-Émilion. We gave the wines a little micro-oxygenation rather than a maceration during the cuvaison and kept the maximum temperature at 28°C.”
00
2022
2026 - 2040
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00
2022
2025 - 2037
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00
2022
2026 - 2037
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The 2022s at Calon-Ségur were not especially forthcoming on the two occasions I tasted them at bookends of my trip. Both wines are massively tannic and forbidding. Yields were just 26 hectoliters per hectare, so perhaps that explains the balance of the wines. Alcohols at 15% are also at the upper end of the range for the year. What does seem clear is that Calon-Ségur is a property where style and quality are very strongly marked by the personality of the year, more so than at other châteaux.
00
2022
2026 - 2040
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00
2021
2024 - 2036
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00
2021
2029 - 2041
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00
2021
2029 - 2041
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Calon Ségur has been quite the roller coaster in recent years. I am not sure if that is more a question of its location in the northern Médoc or choices made by the technical team, but the wines here of late have been highly variable in interpretation. To be clear, I am talking more about style than quality. As for the 2021s, they are magnificent. Readers will find a set of super-classic wines that have little in common with the wines of the preceding three vintages.
We had good weather at the end of May and early June. As a result, flowering was fast and homogenous. Rain was abundant in June. We saw lower sun levels in the summer, unlike the preceding three vintages, and no heat spikes, unlike 2019 and 2020. Rain in July and August was normal.
Harvest ran from September 28 to Oct 2 for the Merlot, then October 4 to October 14 for the Cabernets. Yields were 36 hectoliters per hectare and alcohols around 13%, a significant departure from recent vintages. "We deleafed in June rather than July to encourage air circulation, which helps promote health in the vineyard," Technical Director Vincent Millet explained. "The last 20 days were warm and dry. They really shaped the vintage." In tasting, it is pretty clear the 2021s are special wines.
00
2021
2024 - 2036
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Winemaker Vincent Millet explained the growing season from his perspective when I called in at Calon-Ségur. Perhaps, for the first time, in my 24-years of visiting this appellation, I believe that the gambles Millet took have produced the best Saint-Estèphe in 2021. Tasted in between Cos d’Estournel and Montrose, it had more precision, more completeness. So how did he throw the dice?
“We had to make a lot of action in the vineyard, especially in June,” he explained. “At Capbern and Calon-Ségur we did not suffer frost damage because of the protection afforded by the Gironde. In June, we de-leafed on both sides to increase air circulation, which is something we had not done before. That was a risk because it might have been hot and sunny afterward [thereby burning the berries]. We removed 25-30% of the Merlot bunches and 10-20% for the Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the end, we had to conduct a green harvest in August because it was not very sunny or warm. The third element is that we had the nerve to wait for the picking as there were storms forecasted, which prompted some people to pick early. Waiting was beneficial for the maturity of the Cabernet, so we ended up picking on 28 September, one of the latest harvests ever, finishing on 2 October for the Merlot; the Cabernet and Petit Verdot were picked from 4 to 13 October. The last vintage picked that late was 2012. The alcohol is low, 12.8% for Capbern and 12.9% for the Calon-Ségur. The Merlot did not suffer dilution because we conducted a green harvest, and consequently, quality between clay and gravel soils was not different. In the end, around 43% of the fruit was selected for the Grand Vin, which contains 7% Merlot. But the Cabernet is the star of the vintage.”
00
2020
2025 - 2032
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00
2020
2023 - 2033
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00
2020
2024 - 2030
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00
2020
2025 - 2040
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00
2020
2025 - 2040
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00
2020
2023 - 2028
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
00
2020
2026 - 2038
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00
2019
2026 - 2046
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00
2019
2025 - 2040
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00
2019
2025 - 2039
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00
2019
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00
2019
2025 - 2040
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00
2018
2021 - 2027
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00
2018
2021 - 2027
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00
2018
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“It is a very unique year,” Estate Manager Laurent Dufau and Technical Director Vincent Millet relayed at Calon Ségur. “Alcohols are about 0.5% higher than normal, but so are acidities - pHs are lower than normal across the board. The musts were rich. We knew the cuvaisons would be long and that the wines would extract easily on their own. We did almost no punchdowns and kept temperatures on the lower side.”
00
2017
2020 - 2027
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00
2017
2020 - 2026
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
00
2017
2020 - 2028
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Calon-Ségur is the property most overdue head to heel of an overhaul, the redoubtable and yes, much missed Mme Gasqueton having left the historic estate unchanged since she took over the running in 1995. One constant has been talented winemaker Vincent Millet. He has worked under two very different regimes and produced great wines in both eras. It was a canny move by owners “Suravenir” to keep Millet on the payroll, someone who knows the estate better than anyone else and if anything, has flourished under the current proprietorship. Like the Marquis de Ségur, his heart lies at Calon-Ségur however, there is nothing he can do about the renovation work that has been going on for the last five years.
“It was a precocious growing season. We started the harvest on 13 September when in previous times we might have started maybe beginning of October. It was vital to find the balance between the acidity and the alcohol. I think we are finding the signature of the wine. It was important to respect the typicité of the vintage. It would have been a mistake to compensate for the lack of what Mother Nature gave.The analysis of the wine doesn’t really reflect how the wine tastes. The numbers suggest a very concentrated wine. There is density, but it tastes very balanced and fresh. The 2017 is really our vision for the blend of Calon-Ségur and in fact, there has been more reflection on what the assemblage should be since 2008. At 9%, there is less Cabernet Franc than previous years. We reduced the percentage of Merlot because when I blended it with the Cabernet Sauvignon I found that it reduced the volume of the wine, so to maintain this, I added the young Cabernet Sauvignon. I liked the tension that it imparted. The balance in the mouth was the real challenge. The structure of the wine is really different compared to previous vintages. I see the 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 vintages are all completely different.” That last sentence is fundamental to the success of Calon-Ségur this vintage. They might have been tempted to go for broke, distracted by the “opposition” and produced a super-concentrated, critic-baiting wine that would impress at en primeur. Instead Vincent Millet has created a quintessential Calon-Ségur that will rank alongside the previous two vintages, yet, cut from a different cloth since the final blend has been “rejigged”. Calon-Ségur occasionally stumbled over its own power, often because of the high alcohol imparted by the Merlot. By “taming” the Merlot and limiting its contribution, they have edged closer to what a top-grade Grand Vin can be, though we will not really see the results until the renovation is completed and more importantly, when new vine plantings reach maturity. That takes many years, but the prospect is tantalizing. You can bet your bottom dollar that it has the likes of Montrose and Cos d’Estournel on their toes.
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2017
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2016
2021 - 2032
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2016
2019 - 2031
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2016
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Calon Ségur, along with sister property Capbern, is one of the great Bordeaux success stories of recent years. The 2016s are superb across the board and among the finest - if not the finest - wines of the vintage in Saint-Estèphe. Winemaker Vincent Millet told me the 2016s all have more tannin than the 2009s and 2010s, and yet the wines are remarkably harmonious and polished.
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2015
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2015
2018 - 2030
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2015
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2014
2019 - 2030
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2014
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I was super-impressed with the three wines I tasted with Managing Director Laurent Dufau and Winemaker Vincent Millet. Now under the ownership of French insurance company SURAVENIR, Calon Ségur is in the midst of a massive makeover that includes a new cellar and the redevelopment of the château's vineyards to more modern plant spacing. As for the 2014s, they are truly exceptional and show the richness that the last two weeks of September brought in the northern Médoc. Millet gave the fruit about 48 hours of cold soak, followed by 21 days on the skins with gentle extractions. The malos were all natural and done in steel. Calon Ségur is aging in 100% new oak, while the Marquis de Calon sees about 30% new barrels. Incidentally, Calon Ségur is the first château I have ever visited that chose to present their second wine after the Grand Vin, and with good reason. Let's leave it at that. Readers who want to experience the very best of the 2014 vintage should head straight to Calon Ségur.
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2013
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2012
2016 - 2024
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