France
Saint Estèphe 3e Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15%Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot (2023 vintage)
00
2014
2024 - 2054
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Managing director Laurent Dufau and winemaker Vincent Millet are doing terrific work. These 2014s show why Saint-Estèphe is such a favored spot in 2014. The wines are powerful, ample and totally seductive.
00
2023
2033 - 2063
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00
2023
2030 - 2060
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Vincent Millet was one of the first winemakers I chatted with during my Bordeaux tour. Calon Ségur, habitually, is the first doorbell I ring. “It is a very aromatic vintage. It is very generous in terms of volume on both Left and Right Bank,” he says. “You could drink it for five to ten years, but the wine will be able to age. It was practically double the yield. It is a classic style of wine in 2023 with a freshness that makes it easy to drink. There was no mildew pressure at all, either in Saint-Estèphe or Pomerol and just a little in Saint-Émilion. We gave the wines a little micro-oxygenation rather than a maceration during the cuvaison and kept the maximum temperature at 28°C.”
00
2022
2032 - 2062
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00
2022
2030 - 2052
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00
2022
2030 - 2052
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The 2022s at Calon-Ségur were not especially forthcoming on the two occasions I tasted them at bookends of my trip. Both wines are massively tannic and forbidding. Yields were just 26 hectoliters per hectare, so perhaps that explains the balance of the wines. Alcohols at 15% are also at the upper end of the range for the year. What does seem clear is that Calon-Ségur is a property where style and quality are very strongly marked by the personality of the year, more so than at other châteaux.
00
2022
2027 - 2055
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00
2021
2027 - 2055
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00
2021
2031 - 2061
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00
2021
2031 - 2061
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Calon Ségur has been quite the roller coaster in recent years. I am not sure if that is more a question of its location in the northern Médoc or choices made by the technical team, but the wines here of late have been highly variable in interpretation. To be clear, I am talking more about style than quality. As for the 2021s, they are magnificent. Readers will find a set of super-classic wines that have little in common with the wines of the preceding three vintages.
We had good weather at the end of May and early June. As a result, flowering was fast and homogenous. Rain was abundant in June. We saw lower sun levels in the summer, unlike the preceding three vintages, and no heat spikes, unlike 2019 and 2020. Rain in July and August was normal.
Harvest ran from September 28 to Oct 2 for the Merlot, then October 4 to October 14 for the Cabernets. Yields were 36 hectoliters per hectare and alcohols around 13%, a significant departure from recent vintages. "We deleafed in June rather than July to encourage air circulation, which helps promote health in the vineyard," Technical Director Vincent Millet explained. "The last 20 days were warm and dry. They really shaped the vintage." In tasting, it is pretty clear the 2021s are special wines.
00
2021
2027 - 2055
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Winemaker Vincent Millet explained the growing season from his perspective when I called in at Calon-Ségur. Perhaps, for the first time, in my 24-years of visiting this appellation, I believe that the gambles Millet took have produced the best Saint-Estèphe in 2021. Tasted in between Cos d’Estournel and Montrose, it had more precision, more completeness. So how did he throw the dice?
“We had to make a lot of action in the vineyard, especially in June,” he explained. “At Capbern and Calon-Ségur we did not suffer frost damage because of the protection afforded by the Gironde. In June, we de-leafed on both sides to increase air circulation, which is something we had not done before. That was a risk because it might have been hot and sunny afterward [thereby burning the berries]. We removed 25-30% of the Merlot bunches and 10-20% for the Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the end, we had to conduct a green harvest in August because it was not very sunny or warm. The third element is that we had the nerve to wait for the picking as there were storms forecasted, which prompted some people to pick early. Waiting was beneficial for the maturity of the Cabernet, so we ended up picking on 28 September, one of the latest harvests ever, finishing on 2 October for the Merlot; the Cabernet and Petit Verdot were picked from 4 to 13 October. The last vintage picked that late was 2012. The alcohol is low, 12.8% for Capbern and 12.9% for the Calon-Ségur. The Merlot did not suffer dilution because we conducted a green harvest, and consequently, quality between clay and gravel soils was not different. In the end, around 43% of the fruit was selected for the Grand Vin, which contains 7% Merlot. But the Cabernet is the star of the vintage.”
00
2020
2030 - 2055
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00
2020
2024 - 2048
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00
2020
2030 - 2050
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00
2020
2035 - 2050
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00
2020
2035 - 2050
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00
2020
2027 - 2040
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00
2019
2026 - 2050
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00
2019
2027 - 2055
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00
2019
2029 - 2039
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2019
2027 - 2055
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2019
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2018
2023 - 2045
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2018
2023 - 2045
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2018
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“It is a very unique year,” Estate Manager Laurent Dufau and Technical Director Vincent Millet relayed at Calon Ségur. “Alcohols are about 0.5% higher than normal, but so are acidities - pHs are lower than normal across the board. The musts were rich. We knew the cuvaisons would be long and that the wines would extract easily on their own. We did almost no punchdowns and kept temperatures on the lower side.”
00
2017
2020 - 2032
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00
2017
2022 - 2045
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00
2017
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00
2017
2024 - 2045
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Calon-Ségur is the property most overdue head to heel of an overhaul, the redoubtable and yes, much missed Mme Gasqueton having left the historic estate unchanged since she took over the running in 1995. One constant has been talented winemaker Vincent Millet. He has worked under two very different regimes and produced great wines in both eras. It was a canny move by owners “Suravenir” to keep Millet on the payroll, someone who knows the estate better than anyone else and if anything, has flourished under the current proprietorship. Like the Marquis de Ségur, his heart lies at Calon-Ségur however, there is nothing he can do about the renovation work that has been going on for the last five years.
“It was a precocious growing season. We started the harvest on 13 September when in previous times we might have started maybe beginning of October. It was vital to find the balance between the acidity and the alcohol. I think we are finding the signature of the wine. It was important to respect the typicité of the vintage. It would have been a mistake to compensate for the lack of what Mother Nature gave.The analysis of the wine doesn’t really reflect how the wine tastes. The numbers suggest a very concentrated wine. There is density, but it tastes very balanced and fresh. The 2017 is really our vision for the blend of Calon-Ségur and in fact, there has been more reflection on what the assemblage should be since 2008. At 9%, there is less Cabernet Franc than previous years. We reduced the percentage of Merlot because when I blended it with the Cabernet Sauvignon I found that it reduced the volume of the wine, so to maintain this, I added the young Cabernet Sauvignon. I liked the tension that it imparted. The balance in the mouth was the real challenge. The structure of the wine is really different compared to previous vintages. I see the 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 vintages are all completely different.” That last sentence is fundamental to the success of Calon-Ségur this vintage. They might have been tempted to go for broke, distracted by the “opposition” and produced a super-concentrated, critic-baiting wine that would impress at en primeur. Instead Vincent Millet has created a quintessential Calon-Ségur that will rank alongside the previous two vintages, yet, cut from a different cloth since the final blend has been “rejigged”. Calon-Ségur occasionally stumbled over its own power, often because of the high alcohol imparted by the Merlot. By “taming” the Merlot and limiting its contribution, they have edged closer to what a top-grade Grand Vin can be, though we will not really see the results until the renovation is completed and more importantly, when new vine plantings reach maturity. That takes many years, but the prospect is tantalizing. You can bet your bottom dollar that it has the likes of Montrose and Cos d’Estournel on their toes.
00
2016
2023 - 2055
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2016
2023 - 2055
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2016
2024 - 2056
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2016
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Calon Ségur, along with sister property Capbern, is one of the great Bordeaux success stories of recent years. The 2016s are superb across the board and among the finest - if not the finest - wines of the vintage in Saint-Estèphe. Winemaker Vincent Millet told me the 2016s all have more tannin than the 2009s and 2010s, and yet the wines are remarkably harmonious and polished.
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2015
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2015
2023 - 2040
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2015
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2014
2026 - 2045
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2014
2020 - 2045
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2014
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I was super-impressed with the three wines I tasted with Managing Director Laurent Dufau and Winemaker Vincent Millet. Now under the ownership of French insurance company SURAVENIR, Calon Ségur is in the midst of a massive makeover that includes a new cellar and the redevelopment of the château's vineyards to more modern plant spacing. As for the 2014s, they are truly exceptional and show the richness that the last two weeks of September brought in the northern Médoc. Millet gave the fruit about 48 hours of cold soak, followed by 21 days on the skins with gentle extractions. The malos were all natural and done in steel. Calon Ségur is aging in 100% new oak, while the Marquis de Calon sees about 30% new barrels. Incidentally, Calon Ségur is the first château I have ever visited that chose to present their second wine after the Grand Vin, and with good reason. Let's leave it at that. Readers who want to experience the very best of the 2014 vintage should head straight to Calon Ségur.
00
2013
2023 - 2033
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2013
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2013
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2012
2017 - 2042
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2012
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2011
2022 - 2038
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2011
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2011
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2010
2025 - 2055
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2010
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2010
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2009
2025 - 2050
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2009
2020 - 2045
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2009
2020 - 2045
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2009
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2009
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Calon-Segur came very close to not using any merlot at all in the final 2009 blend and releasing their grand vin with a whopping 97% cabernet sauvignon. The technical team then decided against this (no doubt with input from proprietor Denise Capbern-Gasqueton), but the sample I was shown nonetheless has the highest cabernet sauvignon content ever for Calon-Segur, at 90%. This is not the only first for this vintage: 2009 is also the first time the wine has been aged completely in new wood (it was 90% for the 2008, the previous high).
00
2008
2020 - 2038
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00
2008
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2008
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2007
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2007
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Calon-Segur carried out a second eclaircissage at the beginning of September to get rid of the less ripe fruit, then a second effeuillage on the "setting sun" side of the vines. The top merlot was not harvested until October 1, with the cabernet sauvignon following two days later-and nicely ripe at 12.5% to 13.2% potential alcohol, according to proprietor Denise Gasqueton. Enologist Vincent Millet told me that the extraction was very soft, with the cuvaison lasting only three weeks. By January, he said, some of the merlot had lost its aromatic character and length, and there was a dip in the middle of the wine. Thus the decision was made to declassify a large cuve of the merlot into the estate's second wine and include only the merlot from 60-year-old vines in the grand vin
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2006
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2006
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Owner Denise Gasqueton hired enologist Vincent Millet, previously at Chateau Margaux, as technical director in time for the 2006 harvest, but perhaps it was only coincidence that the barrel sample I tasted at Calon-Segur displayed a floral perfume and definition rare for St. Estephe. According to Millet, the lots that showed less finesse or slight dilution in the mid-palate were eliminated from the blend. This was one estate that carried out an anti-botrytis treatment at the beginning of September, and partly for this reason the merlot was harvested on the late side, beginning on September 26, with potential alcohol above 13% but without surmaturite The cabernet sauvignon came in between October 2 and 8.
00
2005
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Calon-Segur carried out a second eclaircissage at the beginning of September to get rid of the less ripe fruit, then a second effeuillage on the "setting sun" side of the vines. The top merlot was not harvested until October 1, with the cabernet sauvignon following two days later-and nicely ripe at 12.5% to 13.2% potential alcohol, according to proprietor Denise Gasqueton. Enologist Vincent Millet told me that the extraction was very soft, with the cuvaison lasting only three weeks. By January, he said, some of the merlot had lost its aromatic character and length, and there was a dip in the middle of the wine. Thus the decision was made to declassify a large cuve of the merlot into the estate's second wine and include only the merlot from 60-year-old vines in the grand vin
00
2005
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At the level of the first growths, super-seconds and right-bank "collectibles," 2005 is shaping up as an exorbitantly expensive vintage. I suspect that even most readers of this publication will have to think twice about ponying up $5,000 to $6,000 a case for first growths, two years in advance of even getting the wines. For me at least, prices like that take most of the fun out of drinking Bordeaux. But the fact is that first-growth Bordeaux is an international collectible, a luxury product, more than it is a good drink. Most purchasers of these wines simply want to own them: for investment, for status, for fondling, for the feeling that they have purchased fine art. Regarding wines from Bordeaux's most fabled sites, price is barely a consideration.Super-seconds and collectible right bank wines will also be priced at record levels in 2005. Bordeaux lovers who are more interested in having delicious wines to drink in the years and decades ahead would be better served by making careful futures purchases of less-expensive properties that have made unusually strong wines in 2005. And then of course there are the very good to excellent vintages of 2001, 2002 and 2004-years that will never be considered investment-grade. The 2001s are consistently lovely (often more satisfying than their 2000 counterparts at a fraction of the price), the best 2002s will be classic wines with considerable aging potential, and 2004 is another underrated vintage that in many instances will provide 80% of the drinking pleasure of 2005 at less than half the cost. And of course many 2003s are wildly overpriced for their quality. Bordeaux is only exorbitant for those who chase the same two dozen wines.In my extensive tastings in early April, I focused on the 2005s but also sampled as many 2004s and 2003s as time, and the chateaux, would allow. (At a few large group tastings, for example, I limited my attention to the young 2005s and the bottled 2003s, simply to remain conscious.) Price ranges shown for 2003s come from a dozen or more major retailers across the country who have these wines on their shelves."The 2005 vintage is all about fruit," said Denise Gasqueton. "It's a complete wine, and built for aging." The cabernet here was brought in between September 29 and October 4: perfectly ripe at 13+% potential alcohol but not overripe or beginning to raisin.
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2004
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Owner Denise Gasqueton hired enologist Vincent Millet, previously at Chateau Margaux, as technical director in time for the 2006 harvest, but perhaps it was only coincidence that the barrel sample I tasted at Calon-Segur displayed a floral perfume and definition rare for St. Estephe. According to Millet, the lots that showed less finesse or slight dilution in the mid-palate were eliminated from the blend. This was one estate that carried out an anti-botrytis treatment at the beginning of September, and partly for this reason the merlot was harvested on the late side, beginning on September 26, with potential alcohol above 13% but without surmaturite The cabernet sauvignon came in between October 2 and 8.
00
2004
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"On August 30, I couldn't imagine making a wine like the one we have been able to make," said Denise Gasqueton. "We had a bad August, but September saved the vintage with consistently warm but not hot weather that gave us superb cabernet." This estate is in the process of doing considerable replanting of its vines, and continues to carry out about a quarter of its malolactic fermentations in barriques
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2003
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"I've never seen such perfect cabernet sauvignon as in 2003," said Denise Capbern-Gasqueton. "Our water-retentive, humid terroir made the difference." The estate harvested "very carefully, bit by bit," from September 10 through 22. The size of the crop here was small in both 2003 and 2002.
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2002
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2001
2021 - 2045
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2001
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This chateau carried out a very severe selection in 2001, Denise Capbern-Gasqueton told me. The result, she said, is a wine that's not at all wimpy or lacking in structure. The 2001 includes 35% to 40% merlot, and this was some of the finest merlot I found in the Medoc this year.
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2000
2021 - 2040
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2000
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2000
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"The supplesse and roundness of '95 with the firm backbone of '96" is how chef de cave M. Elissarde describes this estate very promising 2000, a blend of 55% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. The wine is aged in 50% new oak; half of the wine racked into new barrels goes through its malolactic fermentation there. "These barrels actually seem less oaky in the early tastings," notes Elissarde; "I don't know what happens later."
00
1999
2019 - 2025
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1998
2018 - 2028
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00
1998
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This estate brought in thoroughly ripe merlot before the damaging rains of late September, and, not surprisingly, has included a healthy scoop of merlot (35%) in the '98 blend. The crop level was lower than that of the previous year, points out proprietor Denise Capbern-Gasqueton, and the grand vin represents a 65% selection.
00
1997
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This estate brought in thoroughly ripe merlot before the damaging rains of late September, and, not surprisingly, has included a healthy scoop of merlot (35%) in the '98 blend. The crop level was lower than that of the previous year, points out proprietor Denise Capbern-Gasqueton, and the grand vin represents a 65% selection.
00
1997
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In this challenging year, Calon-Segur began the harvest in mid-September, but picked the bulk of its cabernet at the beginning of October. Today wines here feature 50% new oak, and half of the malolactic fermentation is done in barrel, which proprietor Denise Capbern-Gasqueton feels gives the wine more texture and richness and helps the tannins and wood marry successfully. The '96 was on its finings and untastable at the time of my visit.
00
1996
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00
1996
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This estate brought in thoroughly ripe merlot before the damaging rains of late September, and, not surprisingly, has included a healthy scoop of merlot (35%) in the '98 blend. The crop level was lower than that of the previous year, points out proprietor Denise Capbern-Gasqueton, and the grand vin represents a 65% selection.
00
1995
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In this challenging year, Calon-Segur began the harvest in mid-September, but picked the bulk of its cabernet at the beginning of October. Today wines here feature 50% new oak, and half of the malolactic fermentation is done in barrel, which proprietor Denise Capbern-Gasqueton feels gives the wine more texture and richness and helps the tannins and wood marry successfully. The '96 was on its finings and untastable at the time of my visit.
00
1995
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Calon-Ségur. Grape sugars were reportedly higher here in '95 than in the previous year, with merlot particularly ripe: the estate picked some merlot as early as September 12 and got potential alcohol levels as high as 13.6%. I was still a bit put off by some finishing greenness that I did not find in many other classified growths from the northern Médoc. The '94 here has developed a more pronounced note of underripe skins.
00
1994
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Calon-Ségur. Grape sugars were reportedly higher here in '95 than in the previous year, with merlot particularly ripe: the estate picked some merlot as early as September 12 and got potential alcohol levels as high as 13.6%. I was still a bit put off by some finishing greenness that I did not find in many other classified growths from the northern Médoc. The '94 here has developed a more pronounced note of underripe skins.
00
1990
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00
1989
2019 - 2027
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00
1988
2018 - 2028
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00
1982
2022 - 2037
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00
1982
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00
1961
2019 - 2022
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00
1961
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00
1959
2024 - 2034
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00
1959
2018 - 2025
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00
1953
2023 - 2040
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00
1949
2019 - 2034
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This recent dinner was a great opportunity to catch up with friends over a leisurely meal and enjoy some nice bottles. The food was off the charts, and the wines were pretty terrific too.
00
1945
2020 - 2025
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00
1928
2021 - 2021
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00
1926
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