2002 Extra-Brut R.D.
$300 (2004)
France
Champagne
Sparkling White
66% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay (2004 vintage)
00
2002
2020 - 2032
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2004
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2004
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I found a breathtaking array of Champagnes lined up when I arrived at Bollinger this past spring, including several vintages of the uber-rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises, which remains one of the most iconic bottles in Champagne. VVF fans will want to note that the next release is the 2010, while the 2008 and 2009 are being held back for release at a later date. This year, Bollinger fans can look forward to a superb edition of the flagship Grand Année. I did not taste Bollinger’s NV offerings because those wines aren’t labeled with disgorgement dates or any additional information that could help the consumer understand if they are being offered the same exact wine I tasted.
00
2002
2015 - 2022
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Bollinger's new releases leave a lot to be desired. At a time when so many of Champagne's top houses are raising the level of their game in a meaningful way, Bollinger is increasingly falling behind both in terms of quality and consistency. Unfortunately Bollinger does not provide disgorgement dates for their NV Champagnes, so those wines are not reviewed here.
00
2002
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2002
2014 - 2029
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1997
2013 - 2017
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This is an exceptional set of new wines from Bollinger, one of Champagne's historic houses. From top to bottom, there isn't anything Bollinger isn't doing well these days. I recently sat down with Chef de Caves Matthieu Kaufmann to taste through a range of the house's 2009s. Readers will find notes on that tasting on this site. One of the distinguishing features of the Bollinger style is the aging of reserve wines in magnum under cork (not crown seal), a painstaking labor of love. Bollinger also has some of the most informative labels among the region's larger houses. It would be great to see Krug, Moët & Chandon, Roederer, Veuve Cliquot and a number of the region's larger houses follow suit.
00
1997
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1997
2013 - 2018
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Under the direction of Chef de Caves Mathieu Kauffmann, Bollinger produces one of the most consistent lineups in Champagne. This estate based in Aÿ is probably best known to the public through its long association with the James Bond films, which is quite possibly one of the most successful product placement campaigns of all time. Despite the show biz glamor that has inextricably become part of the Bollinger mystique, at their best these are serious wines with significant aging potential. The low-dosage R.D. (recently-disgorged) series can be tremendous, and the Vielles Vignes Françaises, made from pre-phylloxera Pinot Noir vines, is one of Champagne's most exotic bottlings. The estate favors neutral oak barrels for the aging of its top wines. One of the most unique aspects of this estate is that the reserve wines are aged in magnum, rather than in tank, which is the prevailing custom in the region. Bollinger's back labels are quite informative, but it would be nice to see disgorgement dates as well on the non-vintage wines.
00
1996
2019 - 2024
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I found a breathtaking array of Champagnes lined up when I arrived at Bollinger this past spring, including several vintages of the uber-rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises, which remains one of the most iconic bottles in Champagne. VVF fans will want to note that the next release is the 2010, while the 2008 and 2009 are being held back for release at a later date. This year, Bollinger fans can look forward to a superb edition of the flagship Grand Année. I did not taste Bollinger’s NV offerings because those wines aren’t labeled with disgorgement dates or any additional information that could help the consumer understand if they are being offered the same exact wine I tasted.
00
1996
2019 - 2029
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I found a breathtaking array of Champagnes lined up when I arrived at Bollinger this past spring, including several vintages of the uber-rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises, which remains one of the most iconic bottles in Champagne. VVF fans will want to note that the next release is the 2010, while the 2008 and 2009 are being held back for release at a later date. This year, Bollinger fans can look forward to a superb edition of the flagship Grand Année. I did not taste Bollinger’s NV offerings because those wines aren’t labeled with disgorgement dates or any additional information that could help the consumer understand if they are being offered the same exact wine I tasted.
00
1996
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1996 remains one of the great modern-day vintages for Champagne. The wines possess a combination of bright acidity and high sugars that is extremely rare. The best 1996 Champagnes are bold, racy and exuberant, in both absolute and relative terms, something that has also come across in numerous recent tastings, including verticals of Dom Pérignon, Cristal, Krug and Dom Ruinart. For all of these houses 1996 is one of the more powerful, extroverted vintages of the last 15 or so years. To be sure, the vintage also has its critics. Those who are skeptical of the vintage claim that some producers harvested too early and that a number of wines possess excessively austere and lean personalities that will never soften. My experience with the Champagnes below and others, however, has mostly been extremely positive and I am convinced the best wines have enough balance of fruit and acidity to age gracefully, in some cases for decades.
00
1996
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1995
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1990
2016 - 2022
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1990
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1988
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1988
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1985
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1982
2016 - 2026
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The private dining room of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko was the site of this recent birthday dinner. The food and wine were both terrific, but as always, it’s the people who make an event special. Over the years, this group has tasted some pretty special wines together. That was once again the case on this night. Sommeliers John Slover and Chase Sinzers did a fabulous job keeping up with the pace and ensuring each wine was served at the optimal temperature.
00
1981
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This wine was tasted at the Second Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in December 2008.
00
1981
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00
1979
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00
1973
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This wine was tasted at the Second Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in December 2008.
00
1973
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