featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Alsace
Louis Sipp is located in the heart of Ribeauvillé, one of Alsace’s most famous and prettiest towns. Sipp has always been one of the best, if not the best producer, of Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé Riesling. A recent vertical back to 1971 provided a great opportunity to taste a number of wines from this famed Grand Cru site.
featured, Italy: Center & South, Verticals & Retrospectives
Rosso del Conte is an iconic Italian wine, one of the first to show that southern Italy could produce world class, age-worthy reds. Rosso del Conte was tinkered with, over the years (not always succesfully, in my view,) but is back to where it should be, showcasing the heights that Nero d’Avola (and Perricone) can reach in the right hands.
Dry wines are all the rage nowadays, but throughout most of history, sweet wines ruled the table. Italians are especially adept at making both white and red sweet wines; certainly, no country in the world offers as many good choices of the latter.
featured, Italy: North, Verticals & Retrospectives
Prà’s distinctive and atypical Soave Classico Monte Grande bottling offers an important glimpse of the quality that other great Soaves might deliver in the future.
Most restaurants in Normandy’s delightful Trouville, a small seaside hamlet characterized by a quiet charm, engage in the preparation of simple and fresh but hardly memorable seafood dishes. Not so at La Petite Auberge, where the small menu of carefully prepared, complex dishes denote noteworthy culinary ability.
featured, Italy: Center & South
Two thousand sixteen is another good vintage for Sicily, with the Vittoria area especially exciting thanks to many outstanding Frappatos and Cerasuolo di Vittorias. Etna, Lipari and Pantelleria also shine - and keep an eye on new wines made with Perricone, a traditional red variety that is being rediscovered.
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Center & South
I have always been awestruck by the purity and true-to-type aromas and flavors that owner Fabio Sireci is able to tease out of Nero d’Avola. Just as importantly, his two single vineyard Nero d’Avolas, Lagnusa and Vrucara, also showcase the characteristics of specific Sicilian terroirs. The two are absolute benchmarks of traditionally made Nero d’Avola wines.
Carré des Feuillants is one of my favorite restaurants, in no small part due to chef’s Alain Dutournier’s uncanny ability to match food and wine. The stellar service you would expect at a highly renowned spot, a sophisticated but not stuffy atmosphere and one of the world’s best restaurant wine lists makes it easy to hope for frequent return trips.
One of my favorite hangouts in the world, Paris’ L’Écume Saint-Honoré is a delightfully easygoing fish-mongerer whose owners had the brilliant idea, a few years ago, of setting up small tables and stools to perch upon to allow patrons to enjoy the fresh crustaceans and bivalves directly on the spot. A compact but qualitative wine selection only adds to the fun.
Italy: North, Vinous Table
Colleoni is a truly historic Italian restaurant where you’ll essentially never have a bad meal. It is a bastion of ultra-dependable, traditional cooking where locals and their families have been feasting happily for decades, and so should you, any chance you get. The fact Colleoni is located in Bergamo, one of Italy’s most beautiful cities, only makes a visit more interesting.