featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
For my money, Miani proprietor Enzo Pontoni makes Italy’s greatest white wines. None of Pontoni’s other wines showcase his amazing talent more than the Ribolla Gialla. Concentrated and complex yet also crystalline, Pontoni’s Ribolla is light years ahead of everyone else’s.
D’Brendelstub offers a nice mix of tradition and twenty-first century flair, with modernist lighting and open kitchen, but also a spit-roast and mostly old Alsatian reliables on the menu (choucroute, tarte flambée, kugelhof, and foie gras.)
featured, France: Bordeaux
Patrick Maroteaux, the highly admired owner of Château Branaire–Ducru, and one of the truly great men of French wine, died on November 19, at just 67. Our thoughts and prayers at VINOUS are with his lovely wife Evelyne and his children Sophie, Anne-Laure, Pierre-Henry and François-Xavier.
Canada, Cellar Favorites, cellar favorite
Sperling’s 2009 Riesling Old Vines is a lovely Okanagan Riesling that is aging gracefully. What I like most about the 2009 is its remarkable balance, and how young it still is.
We all have favorite restaurants in the world. Tan Dinh is certainly one of mine. A laid-back, casual atmosphere, friendly service, great Vietnamese food and one of the fifteen or twenty best French wine lists in the world make Tan Dinh an essential destination in Paris.
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: North
Ronco del Gelso’s wines belong in the top tier of their respective categories. The Pinot Grigio Sot lis Rivis is an especially noteworthy white that once again proves that Italy’s best examples of its oft-maligned yet incredibly popular Pinot Grigio can be world-class drinks.
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Alsace
Louis Sipp is located in the heart of Ribeauvillé, one of Alsace’s most famous and prettiest towns. Sipp has always been one of the best, if not the best producer, of Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé Riesling. A recent vertical back to 1971 provided a great opportunity to taste a number of wines from this famed Grand Cru site.
featured, Italy: Center & South, Verticals & Retrospectives
Rosso del Conte is an iconic Italian wine, one of the first to show that southern Italy could produce world class, age-worthy reds. Rosso del Conte was tinkered with, over the years (not always succesfully, in my view,) but is back to where it should be, showcasing the heights that Nero d’Avola (and Perricone) can reach in the right hands.
Dry wines are all the rage nowadays, but throughout most of history, sweet wines ruled the table. Italians are especially adept at making both white and red sweet wines; certainly, no country in the world offers as many good choices of the latter.
featured, Italy: North, Verticals & Retrospectives
Prà’s distinctive and atypical Soave Classico Monte Grande bottling offers an important glimpse of the quality that other great Soaves might deliver in the future.