For a year with wall-to-wall sunshine and a very early harvest, the 1997 Napa Valley Cabernets are surprisingly classic in style. The better wines have aged beautifully on their sheer strength of material and balance, and often show striking aromatic complexity, not to mention uncanny retention of fresh fruit. Some of the best ‘97s are from higher-altitude vineyards that enjoyed extra hang time owing to cooler afternoon temperatures and yielded more structured wines.