Since 1971, Robert Mondavi Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve has been one of California’s most renowned red wines, and it’s better today than ever as it now comes entirely from the extraordinary To Kalon vineyard in Oakville. But how many consumers have tasted Mondavi’s remarkable Fumé Blanc from the I Block of the same sprawling vineyard? During my double vertical tasting of both of these special bottlings in March, it was the white wine that hit me like lightning.