The Wines of Abruzzo and Molise

Abruzzo and Molise are typically grouped together but in fact have very different histories, topographies and wines. Most consumers have little in-depth knowledge of the wines of these two regions, as not much has been written specifically about them; even experts tend to refer to these wines in generic terms. Unlike the Langhe or Chianti Classico, where basic differences between wines made in different communes have been investigated and described in great detail, there is scant information on how specific grape varieties, geology, exposures and other factors contribute to the character of the wines of Abruzzo and Molise.

For the past fifteen years I have been interviewing local producers, viticulturalists and academics on the geological and viticultural aspects of Italy’s wine regions and the nuances of various wine production sub-areas of Abruzzo. Of course, in some instances such differences are blurred because estates own vineyards throughout the region and blend their grapes. Characterizing Molise’s wines in depth will require more time and legwork.

Abruzzo

Abruzzo is best known for three wines: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, which are also three region-wide wine denominations, a rarity in Italian wine circles. Two specific sub-areas have also been identified, Controguerra (established as a DOC in 1996) and the Colline Teramane (DOCG in 2003).

One of Italy’s most beautiful regions, Abruzzo features what are arguably the most spectacular landscapes of central Italy outside of Tuscany. The region also offers sybarites a bounty of high-quality food products, including saffron (Italy’s finest), white truffles, porcini and vegetables, flavorful fish and crustaceans, unique pasta dishes, Italy’s best lamb, and local cheeses and salumi too numerous to count.

The long coastline hugging the Adriatic sea and the mountainous interior also provide myriad of microclimates and terroirs. The climate is heavily influenced by the Apennine mountain range that runs north-south down Italy’s middle; Abruzzo’s Gran Sasso massif, at 2,914 meters (9,560 feet) above sea level, is the highest point in the range. It follows that the region’s interior has a continental climate, with frigid, snowy winters and cooler summers, while the coastline is characterized by a temperate Mediterranean climate. The geology is also highly varied, with marly-clay, sand-rich flysch and limestone soils. Gravels, and alluvial deposits dominate the coastline’s flatland viticultural areas. For all these reasons, Abruzzo’s wines should offer noteworthy differences even when they’re made from the same grape variety, although this isn’t always the case.

Cataldi Madonna's vineyards lie within the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park in Ofena, Abruzzo

Abruzzo’s Wine Production Areas

The wine production areas within Abruzzo are Controguerra, Teramo (the Teramano), Chieti (the Chietino), Pescara (the Pescarese) and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano). In the northeast, just south of Abruzzo’s border with the Marche, Controguerra is characterized by generally low-lying hillsides that gently slope down from the interior of the province of Teramo toward the sea. The proximity of the sea results in generally warmer average daytime temperatures; a plethora of rivers and streams makes for numerous different microclimates, but Controguerra wines, for the most part, have yet to reflect such diversity. Wine towns in the area include Ancarano, Controguerra and Torano Nuovo; reference-point Abruzzo wine producers of the area are Camillo Montori and Illuminati, but there are other serious estates, including Barone Cornacchia and Monti.