The Undiscovered California – 2015 Edition

One of the most intriguing aspects of the California wine scene is the pace of change. It seems like interesting new projects pop up virtually every year. These are some of the most exciting emerging wineries I have tasted within the last year or so. Most are in their first or second commercial release. Production levels are often tiny, so readers will want to jump on these wines.

Ampère

Cloverdale Peak isn't exactly the first place that comes to mind for top flight Cabernet Sauvignon, but here, in these high altitude mountain vineyards in Mendocino planted at about 2,600 feet above sea level, proprietor Hien Nguyen and winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown are on to something special. I first tasted the Cabernet Sauvignon Ampère last year. This mini-vertical confirmed my very positive first impressions.

Nguyen was first exposed to wine as a teenager in France. Academics took him to the prestigious École Polytechnique in Paris and then MIT, where he earned a PhD in mathematics. Nguyen later joined the University of Montana faculty and then founded a successful software company. Brown is of course known for the Cabernets he crafts for some of Napa Valley's most sought after wineries, but he is also deeply interested in understanding the essence of this site, which can be described as sharing some similarities with Howell Mountain, especially in the wine's dark blue/purple flavor profile. Based on the vintages I have tasted so far, the wines are intensely aromatic, but have less prominent tannin than is typical in Napa's top mountain sites, Howell and Veeder in particular. More than vintage specific differences, these four Cabernets show an evolution in the understanding of this site that points to a bright future. Readers who want to check out something new will want to taste these gorgeous Cabernets from Ampère.

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Pine Mountain Vineyards is striking in its aromatics and bright, chiseled fruit. Dark red cherries, mocha, plums, mint, new leather and cedar open up as the 2010 shows off its hugely appealing personality. Floral and lifted, yet also wonderfully expressive, the 2010 is all about balance. The new oak is a bit prominent in this vintage, but the 2010 is nevertheless an impressive debut. 92/Drinking window: 2015-2025. Dark red and purple stone fruits, spices, menthol, new leather and licorice meld together in the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Pine Mountain Vineyards. There is lovely depth in the dark blue/purplish fruit, along with hints of graphite, lavender and spice that add complexity. This is a very strong showing, especially for the year. 93/Drinking window: 2016-2026. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Pine Mountain Vineyards is the raciest and most voluptuous of the wines I tasted. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, menthol and spices flesh out in a large-scaled, generous wine built on pure texture. In 2012, there is a bit less mountain character and tannin, but in exchange, the wine will drink well pretty much right out of the gate. There is no shortage of vintage 2012 explosiveness and raciness. This fruit was brought in on October 7. 93/Drinking window: 2017-2027. The most promising wine yet off this property, Ampère’s 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Pine Mountain Vineyards is shaping up to be a real gem. Dark, powerful and explosive in the glass, the 2013 saturates the palate with stunning depth and power, both signatures of the year. Hints of jasmine, orange peel and white pepper punctuate the finish. This is a fabulous showing in a vintage that continues to deliver the goods. (92-94+)/Drinking window: 2018-2028.

Arcudi

Tony Arcudi is the associate winemaker at Fantesca by day, but he also makes a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Black Sears Vineyard on Howell Mountain under his own name. These two Cabernets capture a highly appealing middle ground that brings together intensity of fruit and structure. Arcudi hopes to grow his label to include a collection of single-vineyard Cabernets. Judging by this effort, he is off to a great start. I can't wait to see what Arcudi comes up with next.

Arcudi's 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Sears Vineyard is perhaps a bit more tannic and vibrant than the 2012 tasted alongside it, but the flavor profile is essentially the same. Smoke, black cherries, blueberry jam, cloves, menthol and lavender are all laced into the highly expressive finish. (93-95)/Drinking window: 2019-2033. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Sears Vineyard is every bit as special in bottle as it was from barrel. Graphite, lavender, mocha, smoke, blueberry jam, cassis and sage are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. Over the last year the tannins have begun to soften, but there is plenty of Howell Mountain energy and tension. The ripe, exotic finish is a thing of beauty, though. 94/Drinking window: 2017-2032.

Beta Wines

The winding road goes up above Diamond Creek, Von Strasser and Reverie. We are in Diamond Mountain, one of the more isolated spots in Napa Valley. A sharp left turn leads to the dramatic property, with its huge clearings and two log cabins. The estate shares a border with Constant off in the distance, but otherwise, the feeling up here is pretty solitary. This is where proprietor Ketan Mody lives and plies his craft.