The Saar 2014: Stress for Success

Astute wine critics from Karl Heinrich Koch and Maximillian Ripper in the 1890s to Frank Schoonmaker in the 1950s to Otto Loeb and Hugh Johnson in the early 1970s have praised the Saar as capable of attaining the pinnacle of Riesling brilliance. But closer to our own time, the wine-growing stretch of this tributary – which accounts for just under 10% of Greater Mosel acreage—traversed a period of economic and reputational decline, notwithstanding the continued eminence of Egon Müller’s Scharzhofberg and the stalwart persistence of a few quality-conscious family estates.

The unusually warm and uniquely cobbled Saarfeilser vineyard opposite Schoden confirms its historic excellence thanks to proprietors Florian and Peter Lauer, Claudia and Manfred Loch, and Mosel-based Nik Weis of St. Urbans-Hof

A Comeback in Recent Years 

Recovery began late in the 20th century after slumping land prices encouraged a gradual influx of outsiders and local crossovers from other professions that continues today. The Saar is not only regaining its place as a treasure trove of distinctive, outstanding Rieslings but also setting an admirable example of tolerance for stylistic diversity, creatively mingling tradition and innovation in viticulture as well as marketing.