Dry Times in Napa Valley
When Christian Moueix founded Dominus in the early 1980s he predicated his investment on three conditions, and said “I require 20 years to make a great wine. And I can only do this with a property that does not require acidification or irrigation.” Hailing from Bordeaux, where irrigation is outlawed, Moueix’s position was not necessarily surprising. But in California, where the rules are altogether more lax, many growers rely on irrigation not only to establish their vineyards, but to support them in what can at times be especially hot and dry growing conditions. The debate between dry-farming proponents and those who favor irrigation has always been intense, as the topic seems to inspire a great deal of passion, but with the current drought afflicting the state of California, conversations have taken an almost political turn.
The dry-farmed vines of Dominus look verdant and healthy even in a drought
What is Dry-Farming?
Strictly speaking, a dry-farmed vineyard receives no water, not even for emergency heat wave relief. The only exception to this is the first three years or so of a vineyard’s life, when irrigation is often employed to establish the baby vines. While some growers will water the young vines by hand, others prefer to string up irrigation lines, which is why some mature, dry-farmed vineyards remain decked with black hoses long after they’ve been weaned off of water. Of course, it is important to note that “dry-farmed”, much like “old vines” or “reserve”, is not a legally protected or enforced term, so its presence on a wine label or website does not necessarily guarantee total observance.
Workers setting up buckets to water newly planted rootstock in the Library Vineyard
Critics of dry-farming may paint the practice as lackadaisical, but successful dry-farming is about more than simply not irrigating—the soils must be biologically healthy, non-compacted, and able to retain moisture naturally. In order to achieve this, complex cover crop treatments are required, as is thoughtful canopy management, investment in lightweight machinery, regular tilling (depending on the site), and constant, careful observation.
The History of Irrigation in Napa Valley
Once upon a time, the vast majority of Napa Valley was dry-farmed. Primitive methods of irrigation were occasionally employed, but growers typically found the winter rains sufficient for the establishment and maintenance of their vines. Historian Charles Sullivan even goes so far to argue that part of the early success and mystique of Napa Valley was that it was widely known to be dry farmed, which was thought to add to the quality of its wines.
Andy Beckstoffer, one of Napa's biggest landholders, introduced drip irrigation to the valley in the 1970s
