Domaine Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin

It is always fascinating to taste Rousseau’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin side-by-side, as they are flagship wines for the domaine and also reference points for Burgundy more broadly. These eight wines set the stage for an animated discussion of terroir, vintages and a handful of other subjects that are near and dear to the hearts of Burgundy lovers. 

Domaine Armand Rousseau is run by Eric Rousseau, one of Burgundy’s most quiet and unassuming vignerons and only the third member of his family to run the domaine his grandfather Armand founded over a hundred years ago. Charles Rousseau took over the domaine in 1959 after his father was tragically killed in a car accident and managed it until the early 1980s, when Eric took over. Sadly, Charles Rousseau, Eric’s father, passed away earlier this year after a long and distinguished career during which he was an ever-present figure at the domaine.

The upper slope of Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin

Rousseau owns a total of 2.54 hectares in Chambertin spread across four parcels and 1.42 hectares in Chambertin-Clos de Bèze divided among three pieces. The Rousseau wines are distinguished by their extraordinary transparency to site and overall finesse, making this cellar a must-stop for Burgundy fans who want to understand the essence of Gevrey’s most important vineyards. Generally, the Bèze is marked by its dense mid-palate and depth, two qualities that give it a certain immediacy and up-front appeal by Grand Cru standards. Rousseau’s Chambertin, on the other hand, typically needs 15-20 years to enter its sweet spot. A mysterious wine that is often hard to fully grasp, Rousseau’s Chambertin embodies all of the elusiveness and multi-faceted complexity that makes Burgundy so alluring.

This tasting at the Villa d’Este Wine Symposium last November spanned four pairings of Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin across the 2011, 2000, 1991 and 1988 vintages. Eric Rousseau was on hand to present the wines (all sourced from the domaine), but other than sharing a few anecdotes about the history of both vineyards and general comments on the vintages, he did not say much. Then again, it’s been pretty much the same thing every time I have tasted with him at the winery. Rousseau is a very quiet man, just like his wines.